Garage shop demo and remodel


Freddie

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The drawbored approach is something I filed in the back of my head. I think its awesome for doors, especially ones that will see the elements. Something about not having to worry about the glue failing...

 

Are you drawboring the inside face of the door or are you going to show the joinery outside?

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I rough cut my door frame parts into manageable sizes. Started rough milling tonight. Ran my parts through the jointer and planer with no dust collection, and I paid dearly for it. My shop is a mess, and the rest of it went right up my nose. In the midst of this remodel my respirator is somewhere under the living room in the crawlspace.

 

I also Siliconed the glass in the first door tonight, got a full seal on the glass to the exterior of the door. After that sets up, next step is to drop in the interior frame to fully case in the glass, then trim the interior side of the window. The inside of the door will be painted when I decide on paint colors.

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Finished rough milling tonight. My phone died in the shop while i finished up tonight, but after jointing a flat face I ran through the planer and now have flat and parallel faces on my oversized stock. They are stickered on my jointer tables now, and will sit for a few days and be checked periodically. 

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Nick, it's an amazing performer on the job sites and the glide action is super smooth. But I am a super anal person about tolerances and finished products of my work and this saw isn't good enough for my work in the shop as of right now. I think there is an intolerable amount of deflection in the blade, so I need to further investigate it to know for sure. If there is in fact something that needs to be fixed or replaced, then the saw will be a solid performer once again. If not, then it is just a rough cut saw in my shop. 

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Nick, it's an amazing performer on the job sites and the glide action is super smooth. But I am a super anal person about tolerances and finished products of my work and this saw isn't good enough for my work in the shop as of right now. I think there is an intolerable amount of deflection in the blade, so I need to further investigate it to know for sure. If there is in fact something that needs to be fixed or replaced, then the saw will be a solid performer once again. If not, then it is just a rough cut saw in my shop. 

Yikes, at roughly $700 I was hoping to hear more positive things about it than that! What kind of deviations are you getting? Not 90 deg crosscuts, compound miter errors?

I had also looked at the makita ls1016 as a replacement for a much cheaper 10" slider that is in my shop.

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There are many things that can be acceptable for trim work but not for woodworking. I had to shim the fences with blue tape to line up, the tables themselves are not all level with eachother so I blue taped them so my smaller pieces do not tip. When I make cuts, you can see where the blade swerves on the cut and cuts deeper than the original cut. This error leaves an unsightly gap. It has happened on multiple blades so I know its not that. I paid 800 for the saw and I honestly wish I still had my 5312 I had no problems with it. 

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Try cutting slower. :)

 

You know what they say...why pay $700 when you can get twice the saw at twice the price? :D

 

I cut slow Eric, and Ive tried every other option to change the outcome, just isn't happening with this saw. I hope its something wrong with my saw, and not just an overpriced paper weight for the shop.

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