Shop Overhaul Rev 8675309


Tom Cancelleri

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4 minutes ago, TIODS said:

Clearview will do the design for you - Yes, there's a fee.

I don't think there's any inherent design issues with the layout of the pipe. They give you a "Typical Ductwork Layout" on the duct design portion of their site. In following all their basic tips, I would also put blast gates before the branches to be able to shut of sections of duct work. 

Tips to remember:
  • Use as little flex hose as possible (3-4 feet), as it will reduce air flow.
  • Avoid hard 90 degree turns. Instead, use two 45 degree angles or three 30 degree angles.
  • Keep your duct runs as short as possible.
  • Take advantage of blast gates in strategic areas to help control and maximize air flow.
  • Use wye fittings and avoid tees.
  • Use tapered reducers, when necessary.
  • Ensure your system is airtight.
  • Use hoods to help collect dust and debris.

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2 minutes ago, TIODS said:

I just like the fact that they'll maximize your possibilities.  They're the experts.

True. There's a bunch of companies that will do this. There's a fairly local Nordfab dealer that will do it as well. If I were going Nordfab, I'd definitely go for it. I just can't justify almost 3k for ducting right now.

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Still needs tweaking, but it gives me a start at the components necessary to pipe it, including pipe lengths. Things not in the model would be the blast gates and flex hoses connecting to the machines. My plan is to put blast gates at every branch to be able to shut off things like the big band saw and drill press branch when I'm not doing those kinds of operations, and being able to open only the branch for the jointer and planer when I'm only doing milling. This will help reduce static pressure. My only real concern right now is the main branch being the branch on 2 45s right out of the cyclone. 

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I would rotate the cone to aim your inlet more directly at your longer/higher quantity runs.  That near-immediate right turn (although gradual) could be avoided.  JMHO :).

Don't get me wrong.  I have made concessions in my ducting as well but, have also re-done areas to remove turns.

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42 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

I would rotate the cone to aim your inlet more directly at your longer/higher quantity runs.  That near-immediate right turn (although gradual) could be avoided.  JMHO :).

Don't get me wrong.  I have made concessions in my ducting as well but, have also re-done areas to remove turns.

I'm trying to convince myself to disassemble the cyclone and change the inlet location to point straight out, still gonna need to put a branch as the first piece to get to the other bandsaw

 

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37 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

I'm trying to convince myself to disassemble the cyclone and change the inlet location to point straight out, still gonna need to put a branch as the first piece to get to the other bandsaw

 

+1 to rotating it. I think it makes more sense, though will be more work.

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1 hour ago, gee-dub said:

I would rotate the cone to aim your inlet more directly at your longer/higher quantity runs.  That near-immediate right turn (although gradual) could be avoided.  JMHO :).

Don't get me wrong.  I have made concessions in my ducting as well but, have also re-done areas to remove turns.

I'm trying to convince myself to disassemble the cyclone and change the inlet location to point straight out, still gonna need to put a branch as the first piece to get to the other bandsaw

The problem is, I have to put bends going upwards to raise the main trunk otherwise I'd be hitting my head on the trunk line. 

 

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46 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Tom I have a bend coming into my cyclone for the same reason never been an issue. I should point out my main line is 8" pipe though.

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Thanks for the info. What kind kind of cyclone are you running? HP? While we're at it, what gauge pipe is that? Looks like HVAC pipe. 

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15 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

I think Oneida recommends a minimum of 4' straight pipe from the inlet. I only have about 2' and mine works great. Just do your best to have as much straight as you can before you turn.

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hmm well apparently they diverted from that for my application given the fact that I implemented their design for my shop. Having said that 10 years and counting with no issues :).

 

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I think Oneida recommends a minimum of 4' straight pipe from the inlet. I only have about 2' and mine works great. Just do your best to have as much straight as you can before you turn.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

hmm well apparently they diverted from that for my application given the fact that I implemented their design for my shop. Having said that 10 years and counting with no issues :).

 

Well it's not surprising we got conflicting info from them, they had the worst customer service out of all the tool companies I've dealt with. Girl I dealt with was pretty lost so i guess take what i said with a grain of salt. Although it does kinda make sense to me to start with a few feet of straight pipe, mine is not like that and it works great.

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45 minutes ago, Eric. said:

Yo T, what are you planning to do for the lathe DC?  I see you put a drop there...

I've thought pretty hard about this one. I have a dust hood that can be mounted on pretty much anything. I use is mostly when sanding on the lathe. I plan on having that and a floor sweep for the lathe with 2 blast gates, one at each collection point. 

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31 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

Looking good buddy. You must be getting anxious to start cutting some wood !

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Looking good buddy. You must be getting anxious to start cutting some wood !

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I made a rule. No cutting wood until I paint the ceiling. 

In other news, I think the layout is gonna work really well. Things are really starting to fall into place, and moving around the shop is much better without the jointer behind the Roubo. Tonight I'm gonna try to move the planer into position and get the table saw and Roubo switched. 

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