Shop Overhaul Rev 8675309


Tom Cancelleri

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Taping strategies...

Pre-assemble and mark alignment. Pull a joint apart, tape the assembly down at a comfortable height. Leave as few as possible of the joints you tape in place. 

The stuff sticks great! You don't need to wrap the whole joint in one stream. Cut strips of tape that wrap two thirds. Tape one end to a long shim/strip. Have someone else pull the tape behind the pipe  like sewing. You can keep tension on the tape and avoid most catastrophe. 

For anything this won't work on, buy mastic.  

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It's break time! Affected gutters are cleaned out. I just cut a bunch of 26 gauge sheet metal, I'm going to look like popeye by the time I'm done. The straight pipe is much easier to cut using the Carvex, can't do that on the fittings though. I need to figure out how I'm going to hang the piping while I'm securing it with the strapping.

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Bet you're getting excited now!

I'm taking this as a big challenge to see what kind of numbers I get at my machines. I designed the runs based on stuff I've read, and taking into consideration the limitations of my shop setup. I decided to ditch the lathe drop due to the lumber rack, that's why the floor sweep is by the jointer, when turning I can just sweep it up to there. Tomorrow my impatience will win, and I'll plug the unfinished ends and test airflow at the stops that are done. Jointer and planer are the closest to being finished.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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4 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

I'm taking this as a big challenge to see what kind of numbers I get at my machines. I designed the runs based on stuff I've read, and taking into consideration the limitations of my shop setup. I decided to ditch the lathe drop due to the lumber rack, that's why the floor sweep is by the jointer, when turning I can just sweep it up to there. Tomorrow my impatience will win, and I'll plug the unfinished ends and test airflow at the stops that are done. Jointer and planer are the closest to being finished.

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I also opted to not run a drop to my lathe but, that's more because it's in a different room.  I did add a drop close to it where I will have a general clean up hose..  My next shop will have 2 drops at the lathe.  One to grab what it can during turning and one for general clean up.

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What a clean install!  Are dropping down to 4" or 6?

Thanks, I'm taking my time doing this, I prefer to not have to come back and fix anything. I'm sure when I do my leak test, I'll find a leak or two to fix, probably in an elbow somewhere. Once I have all the strapping in place, I will paint the ceiling. Knowing exactly where the joists are for the room above to screws into is helpful.

Everything except the floor sweep will be dropped to 4".

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Yes yes and more yes. This was a huge pain to get installed solo. Ladders everywhere! The ceiling is happening this week.

64c883bf9f094e5e2d193203b60bb0a7.jpg

Oh yea, and this

I put a piece of flex hose to the jointer, and it sucked stuff out of there that my other machine left behind. Freaking awesome! It's break time, I'm sweating my (Insert Body Part Here) off

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Just now, wdwerker said:

Isn't painting the ceiling going to be tougher with those pipes hanging across ? Or are you planning to paint the pipes as well ? I know I have gotten carried away and gotten things out of order. Just curious.

It will be a bit more work to paint, but it won't be too bad. Getting the pipes hung from joists were more important to me. I can see where the joists are right now because of where the sheet rock is screwed in. I will use a roller on a stick, unscrew the strapping a bit and get around the screw with a brush. 

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7 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

That makes sense. Shop ceilings always have so many things hanging or breaking up the surface it's not like you have a smooth continuous surface to paint anyways . As long as it's white to reflect light who cares !

Exactly! It's not like it's inside my house. I just want light reflection and uniform color. 

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