Chet Posted June 29, 2016 Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 43 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said: The post about using Chet's existing cabinet got me thinking. If you want any other pics of the project let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted June 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 If you want any other pics of the project let me know. Thanks Chet. Kev said he'd send me some pics on how he did the fences for the miter station. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 The plaster continues! The soffit is sanded and ready to prime and paint. I am however covered in plaster dust (worst thing ever). I need to bust out the leaf blower and get a giant fan to blow out the shop. There will be 1 more round of plaster to be done on the wall where the sub panel is. On a good note, my plaster skills got a lot better on the soffit then on previous attempts on the walls. I struggle the most with corners where the ceiling meets walls, but everything else was smooth and required no sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Pics? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Pics? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk After I paint I'll put up some pics. The dust was just took much to deal with. I have my air filter on trying to capture whatever is airborne. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Plaster? There's no dust with plaster. When I do sheetrock, there is very little dust. The only sanding I do is just a little bit after the final coat. The trick is not to build the mud up so much to have to sand it down, and to prime after you're sure the first coat or two is not too high. The primer keeps the final coat from making the first coats swell up. First and second coats are feathered in with a damp sponge, then primer, then final skim. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Water and a sponge prevents sanding all together! I haven't sanded it in years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 I do Tom's way. I have never mastered the sponge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 You can't take a lot off with the sponge. It has to be close to start with. You want to only wipe it a time or two around the edges with the sponge. For the first coat on taped edges, I use an 18" concrete finishing trowel, and usually only one pass for first and second coats. For final coat, a clamp on light is clamped to the outer edge of the hawk, and placed right against the wall to shine across it while the final coat is applied, showing every imperfection. For final sanding, I like the pad sold in Lowes with Velcro. The only sanding pad I use is 150 grit. Sanded slowly, the dust falls straight down to be caught with a Shop Vac with bag. For sanding butt joints, I use a long sanding block designed for auto body work. http://dura-block.com/sanding-blocks/ The primer is the real game changer. I've been doing it like that for probably 35 years, but I still hate sheetrock, and will avoid it if possible. The trick is to lock it in with the primer with nothing too high. You don't want to have to sand through the primer. Any water from any coat makes the coat below it swell if it touches it. Any time a coat of mud swells, it will not go back to exactly where you left it when it was dry. There are other details too, that I take care of before hand when framing. Any end sheet butt joints meet on a specially prepared framing "stud" that is doubled so the fasteners aren't so close to the edge of the sheet. That special double stud is run down 3/32" on the jointer before being put in it's place. Otherwise, there is no way to do a perfect surface with butt joints without having a raised hump on the wall. When handling the sheets, care has to be taken not to bruise an edge. No bruised edges or ends are used anywhere. No butt joints beside door or window openings. Haste in hanging makes extra work in finishing, and even makes it impossible to reach perfection. If you want to talk plaster, I have that down to a science too, but if you can't produce perfection easily, and quickly with sheetrock, you don't want to even think about doing plaster. With plaster, you get one chance, and not much time for that chance on the final coat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 I have done a lot of drywall and rarely sand, even if I've screwed up and have a heavy mud coat. I agree with the primer! PVA primer is the best option as you can water and sponge thru it or apply more mud on top of it. And, it's cheap to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 I never like the PVA because it does dissolve and I don't like the transition it leaves. I use water based Zinser Bullseye. I don't want to sand through it, and want it to completely seal the first coats. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-Bulls-Eye-1-2-3-1-gal-White-Water-Based-Interior-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-2001/100398391 Shine a light across it before coating with primer. If doesn't matter if there are still low places, but you want to take any high spots off before coating with primer. The low spots, which hopefully aren't very low, will be finished off with the final coat after the primer dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Some blue chalk in the mud makes finding corrections easier after you prime. No need to overdo it. It just makes locating the touch up spots a little easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 On flat walls I'm fine, I only get high spots and lines in corners that need sanding. I'm not going for perfect flat and smooth. I just want acceptable, it's the shop ceiling as long as it's painted and not full of horrible spots, in OK with that. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk I also bought glidden ceiling white with minor imperfection cover. They also make a paint that goes on pink and dries white. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Soffit is all painted. This week I'll finish up the plaster for the front ceiling of the shop and paint. Getting to the home stretch. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 I get you will be glad when thats done..Looks good Tom.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Looks like you will be all done before I drop by and visit you in a few weeks ! I will be in Maryland first week of August. Any work left to do I'd be glad to stop by and help you out ! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 22 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Looks like you will be all done before I drop by and visit you in a few weeks ! I will be in Maryland first week of August. Any work left to do I'd be glad to stop by and help you out ! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Sweet! I should be done by then Gonna try to finish up the ceiling by the end of the week. Dedicate next week to finishing the electrical. You might be just in time to build a miter station with me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 23 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Looks like you will be all done before I drop by and visit you in a few weeks ! I will be in Maryland first week of August. Any work left to do I'd be glad to stop by and help you out ! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Canadian Invasion is coming! Lock up the women and children! Tom, looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 4 minutes ago, Woodenskye said: Canadian Invasion is coming! Lock up the women and children! Tom, looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 More conduit for the planer and table saw. These will drop about 2' from the ceiling and run adjacent to the ducting and the machine power cords will run up to the outlets hanging. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-MattK- Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Tom, having the cords hanging from the ceiling is great - I have a drop to the jointer/planer and table saw (right next to the duct work) in the middle of the shop - it's so nice to not be tripping over wires! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Tom, having the cords hanging from the ceiling is great - I have a drop to the jointer/planer and table saw (right next to the duct work) in the middle of the shop - it's so nice to not be tripping over wires! I was originally going to run a length of conduit to the floor and have a bank of outlets at the for with no cords in the way. However I think running the cords up to drops is better Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 That moment when the paint is all dry and you missed a spot. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Looks like a good spot for an acoustic tile or a poster Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Ceiling mirror, funkiest shop ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.