Shop Overhaul Rev 8675309


Tom Cancelleri

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33 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

I'm still trying to figure that out. I was thinking a stay put hose. Right now my biggest struggle with the cyclone is going to be changing my workflow to do all my tasks batched out. Seems stupid to turn on the dc for 1 hole at the drill press.

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I was thinking about that as well with DCs. If i need to make 1 quick small cut on my Table saw is it going to hurt anything if i don't turn the dc on?

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One quick cut is no big deal but if you keep doing it repeatedly a pile of dust will build up that the DC won't just suck up. It will require opening up access and giving it some encouragement. If you use compressed air try for the lowest volume/pressure possible to avoid making a bigger mess.

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53 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I was thinking about that as well with DCs. If i need to make 1 quick small cut on my Table saw is it going to hurt anything if i don't turn the dc on?

I try not to do any cuts without the DC on. If it's not on, more dust gets into the cabinet & sticks to the greased bits more. With it on, all the dust gets sucked up in the shroud.

My thinking is that I won't have to clean & regrease as frequently.

Sometimes I forget though, or for a really tiny cut I don't bother.

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Collecting dust/waste at a DP has for the most part eluded me. I do have a hose at the DP but it only works marginally well. The hose is long enough that I am able to pull it out of its holder and clean things up when I need to which is very nice.

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Regarding turning on the DC for a couple holes, or a quick cut, if its not on I don't turn it on unless it is at the J/P, I always turn it on for that machine.

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2 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Collecting dust/waste at a DP has for the most part eluded me. I do have a hose at the DP but it only works marginally well. 

Your problem is the hose. You're using a 2.5" hose which is not going to be able to pull the velocity and volume of air to pull away the dust and chips effectively. A dust collector doesn't work like a shop vac, and the minimum hose size that is acceptable is 3.5" though 4" is pretty much the accepted compromise for volume/velocity.

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I've actually had pretty good results with using about 5' of 2.5" flex from the blast gate. It sucks very well, though not as much as the shop vac.

I think it depends on the blower on the DC, some deal with high static pressure better than others.

I need to refine the system; now I just hang/tie/clamp the flex in the best place. Not very convenient.

41 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

Your problem is the hose. You're using a 2.5" hose which is not going to be able to pull the velocity and volume of air to pull away the dust and chips effectively. A dust collector doesn't work like a shop vac, and the minimum hose size that is acceptable is 3.5" though 4" is pretty much the accepted compromise for volume/velocity.

 

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Tom,   I remember seeing a real cool set up fro the drill press in one of Dave Stanton's videos unfortunately I can't recall which one.  He had built some kind of hood type thing that went over the quill and the DC hooked up to that.   I think it might be this one.

 

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hmm. That very well may be true but it is also that you have chips not just dust being thrown out by the drill bit. If you move the hose to close it gets in the way of the quill to far back and you have issues collecting the chips. Regarding hose size I do have two vacuum hoses connected to my dust collector (which i know you are not supposed to do) one 12' one 24' that I use to vacuum off tools etc one on each side of the shop and they work great. Things being what they are I do not like the 2 1/2" hose sitting there in my way so there is no way I would want a 4" hose there. 

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OK thermal engineers, put on your thinking caps. I left the A/C running in the shop last night, this created something I'm not happy about.... The beer can effect. Since I'm venting outside, humidity is able to introduce itself into my cyclone. With the ducting being cold, it creates condensation inside the ductwork. I'm thinking blast gate on the exhaust pipe to keep condensation from getting into the cyclone overnight. Thoughts?

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2 hours ago, drzaius said:

Is there something like a giant dryer vent cap with a flapper available? If not, it wouldn't be hard to make one. The DC has plenty of push to open a flap that is heavy enough to seal well when closed.

I have a louvered cap. I think I need to get a spring damper exhaust cap to try and combat the humidity from getting in. 

 

17 minutes ago, estesbubba said:

Tom the dust collection is looking great. Where did you get your meter? 

Thanks Mike, other than the humidity debacle today, the amount of suction is extremely impressive. I picked up this meter on Amazon. You need to do some math that for the area function. For instance, to set the area for a 4" duct, you do radius squared x 3.14 / 144 = .087, or for 6" ducts  is .196 

http://www.amazon.com/HYELEC-MS6252A-Digital-Speed-Anemometer/dp/B019RU17XC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1465093402&sr=8-9&keywords=anemometer 

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And they're off! Started this morning by going to home depot to exchange my sub panel. It had a huge dent in the corner that would have made it not sit against the wall. 

My old sub panel is now disconnected, and now to remove the old wire and install new wire. This part sucks a whole lot.

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I used to run big telecom and power cable, I've got all sorts of stupid specialty cutters and installation tools.

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Old panel is out, new panel is in. I had to move the fire stop up about 8 inches nothing like cutting a 2x4 by hand because your shop has

No power other than the garage door opener and ceiling switch for 2 lights.

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Also, this thing is awesome! It's name is now the phucker upper.

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