Picture Frame/Miter trouble


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1 hour ago, Jason Hotze said:

Sorry to keep flooding with pics but here is the final one. And now that I have the procedure I have many frames to make!

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50a139fc7e64b5a15735a2d94a17aac9.jpg

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For a minute there I thought you made a raised panel out of plywood.

I was thinking hey that don't  look so bad.:huh:

Nice job on the miters.

 

Aj

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Beautiful job!

Now you are ready to build the clamp for keeping it square when you glue up.

 

Makingapictureframe012_zps62cec36f.jpg

 

But, you still need to measure it corner to corner.

 

Makingapictureframe017_zpsbf55eb46.jpg

Ok roger I did make that jig after all haha. Do the square corners that wrap the ends need to be perfectly square? Yours looked like one that had a starter hole for a jigsaw and that's what I did but the roughness doesn't seem to square it up well. Thanks again!

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I use this version of a sled.  Frame pieces are on the inside.  As long as the 2 guides are at 90 degress to each other and you cut each piece from the proper side it is right on the money.  In addition, I know that that if I hold the piece tight into the corner, the cut removes 3/32" from each end of the each piece so I can start with a piece 8 3/16" long, and end up with the 8" I want without having to cut to a line.

P1010019.JPG

Additional tip.  I have a large 45 degree drafting triangle that I know is exactly square.  Cheap solution for laying out things like this sled, squaring my miter guage to the blade, etc.

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13 hours ago, Jason Hotze said:

Ok roger I did make that jig after all haha. Do the square corners that wrap the ends need to be perfectly square? Yours looked like one that had a starter hole for a jigsaw and that's what I did but the roughness doesn't seem to square it up well. Thanks again!

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Well, obviously the more square the better but, still you will need to dry clamp and make an adjustment or two.

I generally dry fit/clamp and make sure that things are like I want them and loosen the clamp just enough to lift out each side  to

apply glue and replace it in the proper order. Then re-clamp snugly, measure and look, then  tighten up on the clamp and leave to dry. 

I think that I cut the sides from out side in to the hole with my scroll saw but, it has been a long time ago when I built the jig so I really don't remember.

You will really like the adjustability of this jig and it should last you a lifetime.(as long as you wax all surfaces so you don't glue your frame to the jig....makes it hard to hang on the wall :))

mp

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f34d5ad05e107b0a3153d91a0247d565.jpgb4b2b4b91f51ca331b19a10a5371858b.jpg

I've posted this before, but this is how i made sure I had a perfect 90s while positioning the rails

I'm about to make a new sled for my new saw and plan doing the same process

My buddy just bought the incra sled and told me he got got dead perfect 90s right out of the box. I need to see it to fully believe it though!

Yours looks like it works great!

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  • 2 months later...

Bringing this back up because of the shooting board discussion.

I made my first miter shooting board to help with a current build.  The first board didn't fare too well...I didn't leave enough of a ledge for the plane to ride on and the cuts were coming off square.

The second board was much better.  Of matching frames, I got one set really, really close and the second set is just "pretty" close.  I checked and checked again but can't find the error in that set...maybe tomorrow with a fresh pair of eyes.

I need some more practice, and my LAJ needs to be just a wee bit finer honed.  Most times I was getting full length end grain cuts in one piece, but some cuts were difficult to push through.

A big problem I had was the work piece sliding around in the middle of the cut...any solutions for that?  Sandpaper glued down onto the board maybe?

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20 minutes ago, bleedinblue said:

A big problem I had was the work piece sliding around in the middle of the cut...any solutions for that?  Sandpaper glued down onto the board maybe?

Yes, sandpaper.  I can still remember the shock of how much better my control was with a bit of 180 or 220 spray glued to the fence or support surface of whatever I was using.

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I don't see the need for sandpaper. Your blade must not be sharp enough or your taking to big of a cut.

It also help to know what miters that need trimming.

A small square to check its square to the face and 45.

I hold the matching pieces right up next to each and feel with my fingers tip to see if one is longer than the other.

 I do realize you didn't ask for my pointers  so feel free to flush my words.

:unsure:

Aj

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I'm never afraid of pointers.

I added some sandpaper and was more careful of the depth of cut.  I also waxed the board.  Definitely much better.  The best I could tell, all pieces were the same length and all were at 45 (according to my squares, which COULD be off) The frames still don't go together perfectly, but seem to be very, very close.  

IMAG0090.jpg

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