Template Routing - End Grain Tearout

[Elroy Skimms]

For those of you who use tape to stick your templates to the stock, what kind of tape do you use? The only double-stick tape I see at the store is the thick padded stuff, which probably wouldn't work very well. If I end up using a top & bottom bearing bit, switching from my clamps to double-stick tape would probably be a good move.

-E

[midtnwoodworker]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ASGL02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Works really well.

[Brendon_t]

1" double sided carpet tape. It almost works too well..

[Elroy Skimms]

I had already stopped at Woodcraft to buy the Spectape @midtnwoodworker mentioned. If I get any movement with this tape, or when I run out of tape, I'll give the super glue & masking tape method a shot. It looks like a great way of doing it. I love tricks like this.

-E

[wtnhighlander]

I use 2" carpet tape from the big box store. As Brendon said, works TOO well, sometimes.

[Coop]

8 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

I use 2" carpet tape from the big box store. As Brendon said, works TOO well, sometimes.

I currently use that as well but find it awfully thick. Would like to find something thinner.

[wdwerker]

The thick carpet tape is affordable and wide but thick and sometimes a bitch to remove.

When I need thin I use the double face tape they sell for wood turners to hold bowls to faceplates.

[wtnhighlander]

I currently use that as well but find it awfully thick. Would like to find something thinner.

Ken, are you talking about that foam mounting tape?

The carpet tape at my local Lowes is very thin, and woven from a pretty tough fiber. Almost impossible to tear it. Also near impossible to peel it off if you press it together too well!

[Rapid Roger]

I use the carpet tape from Ace Hardware . They carry two types, one with cloth back which is a bit thicker and much harder to remove, and plastic back (which is what I use) is very thin and removes much easier. If it does stick to the "good" piece of wood, it is easy to remove by rubbing it with a finger or using mineral spirits with out a lot of trouble. The plastic backing is cheaper also.

[Elroy Skimms]

There's always a catch... The Spectape worked great, but my 1/2" MDF templates bend when trying to pull them away from the part. I don't think I'll be able to use each template more than a few times before I end up breaking them and needing to cut new ones. That's the bad news.

The good news is that the spiral bit does a beautiful job on the end grain. I went with a 1/4" Yonico 14121 and was able to route completely around the template without an issue. Downhill, cross grain, uphill in the snow both ways, smooth sailing. Obviously it's not recommended to cut uphill unnecessarily, but I wanted to test it out anyway. One of my templates has some difficult inside curves and this should work beautifully.

The other good news is that the top/bottom bearing bit worked really well. It's a straight cutter so it doesn't cut uphill at all. But with the template taped to the workpiece and the micro adjuster on the router, flipping the part upside down as needed was not a hassle.

The only negative here is that this bit, with a 2 1/2" cutting height, is a monster. It will take some getting used to, but as a technique for dealing with end grain tearout, it's absolutely a valid choice, especially when the cost of a spiral bit in that same size is 5x the price.

-E

[wdwerker]

I use a thin putty knife to seperate the template. You might try a squirt of mineral spirits or naphtha. 

[Eric.]

I don't know how you do all that uphill routing without pooping your pants.  The router table gives me butt pucker more than any other tool.  I just DON'T route uphill.  Ever.

Anyway, yeah x2 on the putty knife.

[Larry Moore]

X3 on the putty knife. I also only use small square pieces of tape, as in not one piece the full length of the template.

[gee-dub]

3 hours ago, Larry Moore said:

X3 on the putty knife. I also only use small square pieces of tape, as in not one piece the full length of the template.

Yep.  Small "spots" of tape at stress points.  Rockler used to sell these double stick tape dots.  I picked up several packs on clearance quite awhile back.  I am amazed that I have any left but, every time I reach for some, there seem to be a few left(???).  Cutting 1" bits off of a tape roll gets you the same thing.

[Elroy Skimms]

With a tiny 1/4" bit, the pucker factor is greatly reduced. However, that monster 2 1/2" top & bottom bearing cutter kept me on my toes. It's not as easy riding the line between holding the work piece tight enough to control it and loose enough that if the bit yanks it, my hands don't get pulled into the cutter. This is why I prefer to use clamps instead of tape. The clamps make great handles that sit high above the cutter. For some parts, that's just not practical.

I can see why there are so many different methods available, there is a time and place for everything. I wanted to take the time and experiment a little bit. The next time someone searches the forums for help on end grain tearout, hopefully they will find this thread and get the info they need.

-E

[Eric.]

1 hour ago, Elroy Skimms said:

a tiny 1/4" bit

can mangle a finger too. Respect.