MisterDrow Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) Picked up some Seal-A-Cell and satin Arm-R-Seal for that walnut desk I've been working on. I've never used it before and figured I should test it out. Applied the sealer and four coats of Arm-R-Seal on a rough sanded piece of walnut scrap to test it out. This stuff rocks! https://imgur.com/a/p5wLk Edited August 28, 2016 by MisterDrow Image didn't come through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 And I have even better news: You can skip the sealer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted August 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 No need to use it? I was instructed that it would help keep the finish going on nice and even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted August 28, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 No need to use it. Cross my heart and hope to die. The one exception... If you're finishing a blotchy species, and you don't like the blotch, you should use a seal coat. Shellac is the traditional sealer to use, but others will work as well. I don't mind "blotch." On cherry I like the earthy look that oil gives it. Same with figured maples, and I don't mind the slight amber tint that oil-based finishes impart. For plain white maple I would use a water-based finish to keep the stark white look...but I don't use plain white maple very often. For walnut, dive right in with the Arm-R-Seal and don't look back. No need to do anything else. Four coats, you're done. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Guthrie Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 Agree with Eric. Never had to use the sealer. Love using Arm-R-Seal, such a great product. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted August 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 Well I've already applied seal a cell on the underside of the desk but I'll just skip it for the rest. On further research, seal a cell appears to be nothing more than a clear stain. Unsure why you'd even use it by itself, to be honest. If you want the natural color, you'd use a top coat like arm r seal, otherwise you'd use a colored stain first. Can someone enlighten me as to why you would want a clear stain? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 You wouldn't. It's marketing BS. Until I'm proven otherwise, I'm going to assume that Seal-A-Cell is just diluted Arm-R-Seal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 I have been playing around with sample boards on walnut and oak and found that 1 "quick" coat of BLO (wipe on and rub off within a few minutes without letting soak too much or it takes too long to dry) makes a slight but noticeable enhancement to the grain appearance. Let dry 24 hours just to be sure and then 3 or 4 coats of ARS. I am not using it as a sealer - its just for the appearance. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coop Posted August 29, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 I'm pretty sure, but not certain, that I'm the one that turned this forum onto ARS, many, many years ago?? More BS! But I do love this stuff! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted August 29, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 30 minutes ago, Ronn W said: I have been playing around with sample boards on walnut and oak and found that 1 "quick" coat of BLO (wipe on and rub off within a few minutes without letting soak too much or it takes too long to dry) makes a slight but noticeable enhancement to the grain appearance. I don't wanna be a contrarian, but in my experience there is no noticeable difference. I used to do the first coat of BLO routine, but I stopped it years ago because I found that going straight to ARS gives you exactly the same appearance, and you don't have to wait forever for the BLO to dry. The only time I use BLO anymore is if it's going to be the only finish applied. And I don't really do that anymore either because T&T has taken its place. I think people way over-complicate finishing. All you need most of the time is one kind of juice, three or four coats. Get it on, be done. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 Eric. No argument from me. I like simple. I was just reporting what I observed on my particular sample. BTW, I am not sure what T&T is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/original-wood-finish/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted August 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 Ooh, that looks nice! I'll have to see if someone carries it around here! Looks like Woodcraft carries it around here. I'll have to get some of it and try it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 29, 2016 Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/Tried-True-Wood-Finish-Original/dp/B003DKYZQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472439880&sr=8-1&keywords=tried+and+true+linseed+oil Yeah, it's not cheap. But a little goes a long way, and I don't use it on big projects. It's great for small decorative items that don't require protection. Boxes, picture frames, etc. Gives as natural of a look as you can achieve and a very light sheen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 20 hours ago, Eric. said: https://www.amazon.com/Tried-True-Wood-Finish-Original/dp/B003DKYZQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472439880&sr=8-1&keywords=tried+and+true+linseed+oil Yeah, it's not cheap. But a little goes a long way, and I don't use it on big projects. It's great for small decorative items that don't require protection. Boxes, picture frames, etc. Gives as natural of a look as you can achieve and a very light sheen. But definately cheaper than T&A! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 SealACell is just an undercoat. Use it up and don't buy any more. ARS on its own works just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 I've never tried ARM-R-Seal but have used general finishes Gel Topcoat, anyone tried both and willing to discuss the pros and cons? with all this praise, I'm wondering if I should switch over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 So I dug around to answer my own question, Here we go, ARM-r-Seal vs. other GF products, according to GF. https://generalfinishes.com/blog/2014/04/what-top-coat-should-i-use#.V89iDk0rKUk It seems like ARM-r-Seal is recommended for things with more nooks and crannies, which isn't surprising, I suppose the more liquid consistency will better get into those spaces. I like the thick consistency of the gel coat, two coats seems to provide a pretty substantial build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 One of the advantages of ARS is that you don't build a substantial film in two coats. The fact that it's thin gives you more control over the thickness of your film which prevents that horrible plasticky look you get with regular poly or similar finishes. It only takes three or four coats with ARS to build a protective film, so it's not like you're French polishing a hundred micron-thin layers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 To semi-hijack this, sorry Mr. D, do those with some experience with ARS, prefer to apply with a foam brush or a rag? I prefer the foam and it's probably because I'm not using the rag correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 i almost always use a foam brush Coop, the ones i use are a grey color and are dense to the touch, i have used a rag on trickey pieces with lots of stiles and rails and small pieces that are hard to brush with no problems, always light coats with either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 First coat, either. Every consecutive coat, old folded t-shirt. Not enough control with a foam brush...drips everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Some foam brushes disintegrate during the process, too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 yep Ross, the cheap foam will do that, they are more black in color and with very open cells, not good for anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Dave, what's your source for the grey ones? Eric, do you fold yours like Marc did in one of his videos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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