Arm-R-Seal is awesome!

[AceHoleInOne]

On 9/13/2016 at 3:16 PM, Elroy Skimms said:

Good catch. I hadn't noticed the 6" description. My Porter Cable is 5". I sent the ebay seller a message to find out if they come in 5" sizes.

EDIT: Looks like they only come in 6". So my options are buy another sander or find another type of sanding pad. Any suggestions?

-E

Hey man, no problem, I use the 6" pads on my 5" hook and loop sander all the time. Actually, I find that as a bonus. The pad tends to roll up around the sander pad. Just like when you hand sand something, its like your thumb is rolling the paper up. Samething here applies, your edges cant dig into the finish. 

[Pondhockey]

On 9/13/2016 at 4:13 PM, Eric. said:

I don't ever use Platin pads on my sander.  You may be interested in them for some other purpose, but for polishing an ARS finish, I do that by hand.  And after I use it, I soak the pad with mineral spirits, squeeze out the excess, and store it in a tupperware container for future use.  They're too expensive to use only once, and you can usually get a few uses out of each one.

(Newbie, here) I'm surprised to hear that folks are using rotary sanders during finishing - doesn't this cut across the grain?  All of my experiences so far tell me to try to sand with the grain at the end of the finishing process, and NOT to sand across the grain (pretty much ever) with course grit.  I even make sure that my last wipes, with wipe-on polish, are with the grain.

I volunteer this because I have the sanding marks on some projects to shame me!

[drzaius]

5 minutes ago, Pondhockey said:

(Newbie, here) I'm surprised to hear that folks are using rotary sanders during finishing - doesn't this cut across the grain?  All of my experiences so far tell me to try to sand with the grain at the end of the finishing process, and NOT to sand across the grain (pretty much ever) with course grit.  I even make sure that my last wipes, with wipe-on polish, are with the grain.

I volunteer this because I have the sanding marks on some projects to shame me!

There's rotary & there's Random Orbit Sander. The ROS leave a very small, random scratch pattern that is much less visible.

[bleedinblue]

I'm a bit of a finishing ra-tard, so take this with a grain of salt.  I typically use a RO sander after the first and/or second coat of ARS, then before the final coats I go by hand with a sanding block and/or steel wool.  I never see a scratch pattern doing it this way.

[Brendon_t]

I've never had the inclination to go after my first coat with a sander. I have blocks in 220,320,400,600. I hardly ever use the 220. work up through the others gently with the grain just to scuff a bit and get any nibs 

[Pondhockey]

2 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

I've never had the inclination to go after my first coat with a sander. I have blocks in 220,320,400,600. I hardly ever use the 220. work up through the others gently with the grain just to scuff a bit and get any nibs 

Well, I've been scratching my head (with 40 grit;-) about this, and your post is the one that resonates.  I'll have to try the ROS route some day on a flyer.

I appreciate all the posts; they're mind expanding.

[Brendon_t]

The blocks I use are called 3m sandblaster sanding sponges for between coats. at about $7, their not expensive and last a long time as long as you're not sanding on uncured finish and gumming it up. A  few swipes up and back with the grain is adequate for me between coats. I've been using the same 4 blocks for about a year.

[Tpt life]

There seems to be a lot of confusion lately about leveling dust nibs (by hand mid process) and polishing a surface (one of a few ways after the finish has cured.) There is also a lot to be said for appropriate media, freshness of media, and quality of machinery. My take away is that I will never lean too heavily on a finish schedule because it works for someone else. Practice on some scrap and use what works in your setting with your limitations. 

[Eric.]

23 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

There seems to be a lot of confusion lately about leveling dust nibs (by hand mid process) and polishing a surface (one of a few ways after the finish has cured.)

This.  Also confusion about the difference between what I'm calling polishing and the technique of rubbing out.  Two totally different things.  What I call polishing should not (and most often could not) be done with ROS.  Too aggressive and you wouldn't be able to get into the nooks and crannies.  "Polishing" is done to achieve a smooth feel, not to change the sheen.  You do not rub out varnish.  It has flatteners so you can choose your desired sheen from the beginning.

To clarify...any sanding of an ARS finish that I do is only to remove dust nibs and prepare the surface for the next coat.

After the first coat, I "sand" lightly with 320 grit.  You can hardly call it sanding.  It's so light that it hardly produces dust.  I'm only interested in knocking off the dust nibs.

Vacuum with brush attachment, apply second coat.

After the second and third coats, I repeat the same process except I use 600 grit.

The fourth coat I thin about 50/50 with mineral spirits.  I apply as neatly as possible to prevent drips or pooling.

After the finish is cured, lightly wet sand the entire piece with a Platin pad, lubricated with a mix of mineral oil/mineral spirits.  Wipe dry.

At no point do I feel the need or desire to use a ROS.  That's overkill and you'll only remove finish that you just laid down.  You do not need to "rub out" a varnish finish because you choose the sheen that you want when you buy your product...they sell it in gloss, semi-gloss and satin.  Polishing with the Platin pad is only to make the surface smooth to the touch, not to change the appearance of the sheen.

[krtwood]

I polish the surface with kraft paper.  Makes a huge difference.

[Chud]

On 8/30/2016 at 10:46 AM, TerryMcK said:

SealACell is just an undercoat. Use it up and don't buy any more. ARS on its own works just fine.

Terry where are you getting ARS from - it seems it was banned within the EU when they changed the VOC rules (same time as they ruined all the white solvent based wood paint)?

[TerryMcK]

21 minutes ago, Chud said:

Terry where are you getting ARS from - it seems it was banned within the EU when they changed the VOC rules (same time as they ruined all the white solvent based wood paint)?

Hi Chud - I bought the last stocks of ARS in the UK from General Finishes Europe back in about 2011 or 2012 (I think) just as they were stopping selling it. I only have one can left now and about 4 cans of SealACell.

When that is gone I will just be using GF EnduroVar or Exterior 450 as they give similar results but are waterborne. You can make wiping varnish from oil based finishes that are still available in the UK though. Never as good as ARS though

[Chud]

Maybe it'll make a return after Brexit happens (if it happens).