treesner Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I was looking at the walkmoore router plane as I heard good things from friends about it but looks like they're sold out. Any other options that are versital? Planes are one of those things that I'd rather just buy right the first time and have for the rest of my life http://www.walkemooretools.com/shop/router-plane-model-2500/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I have played around with the Walke Moore router plane at a couple different shows, and it is a very high quality plane with features that no other manufacturer today is offering. As I have a Veritas router plane that works well, I haven't yet pulled the trigger on one, but I do want one. If this is the router plane you want, unless you have an immediate need for one, I would wait until they are accepting orders again. I have a feeling it will be worth the wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 What can it do that the veritas can't? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 The handles and blade attachment posts are all the same. With this configuration, the blade can be mounted to any of the three posts. So it starts out with the blade being in the middle like a traditional router plane, but if you like to use the router plane to clean up a half lap or tenon, you can move the blade to one of the ends. This gives you a LOT more stability than using a standard router plane with over half of it hanging unsupported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 The Walke Moore looks good but I certainly do not need the extra versatility it has to offer. I use a LN and I'm happy with it. When cleaning up tenons or other situations which involve anchoring the plane on one side, one has to learn to remove the temptation of applying down force to the unsupported, pivoting side. On certain situations, one can just use carpet tape and attach a piece of plywood as a sub-base, then use a piece of wood of the same height to support the other end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Fair enough. I'll keep my Veritas though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjongsma Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 The body of the walke moore router plane is also almost 3" wider than the veritas router plane. Combine that with the fact that you can put the blade into either of the handle posts, and that allows you to hang the cutter 3-4" over the edge and clean up a tenon face while still having over half of the sole solidly referenced against the face of the board. That's a pretty compelling feature, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 If you put the blade into the handle post you can only work in one direction. Unless you're willing to change your setup repeatedly, you will get serious tear out when the blade exits your work at the far side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 56 minutes ago, jjongsma said: The body of the walke moore router plane is also almost 3" wider than the veritas router plane. Combine that with the fact that you can put the blade into either of the handle posts, and that allows you to hang the cutter 3-4" over the edge and clean up a tenon face while still having over half of the sole solidly referenced against the face of the board. That's a pretty compelling feature, I think. 2 minutes ago, Immortan D said: If you put the blade into the handle post you can only work in one direction. Unless you're willing to change your setup repeatedly, you will get serious tear out when the blade exits your work at the far side. As well, a shoulder plane would be a more appropriate tool for that job. Or a rabbeted block plane for that matter. Another option is simply another piece of lumber off the end of the tenon. Walke, LV, LN all get the job done very well. I have the LN and never felt the need to change just to have this added option. I haven't done any price comparison but, if I were buying my first one, I might consider this one depending on what other tooling I had.. ie, shoulder planes, block planes, etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 26 minutes ago, Immortan D said: If you put the blade into the handle post you can only work in one direction. Unless you're willing to change your setup repeatedly, you will get serious tear out when the blade exits your work at the far side. You clearly did no research. The blades spin 360° inside the adjustment body. 5:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 minute ago, C Shaffer said: You clearly did no research. The blades spin 360° inside the adjustment body. That means exactly what I said, you have to change your setup to revert direction. You clearly did not read what I posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 minute ago, Immortan D said: That means exactly what I said, you have to change your setup to revert direction. You clearly did not read what I posted. The blade rotates, does not drop out...rotates. I am struggling to see any issue with this. The router plane is not a fine finish tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 2 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: The blade rotates, does not drop out...rotates. I am struggling to see any issue with this. The router plane is not a fine finish tool. I think you guys are splitting hairs.. There's still a process to rotate the blade, albeit a very quick and simple one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjongsma Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 32 minutes ago, TIODS said: As well, a shoulder plane would be a more appropriate tool for that job. Or a rabbeted block plane for that matter. Another option is simply another piece of lumber off the end of the tenon. I'm not sure that I agree that a shoulder plane is a more appropriate tool for trimming the face of a tenon, unless it was a very short tenon. But in any case, I don't own a shoulder plane (or a rabbet block plane) so I tend to use a router plane. And I do often use another piece of wood off the end of the tenon. But that means that you have to have both pieces of wood secured on the same plane, which limits your workholding a little bit (must be flat on the bench rather than held in the vise, etc). So, yes, my current stanley 71 does the job fine. But I do think that the wider sole and some of the additional features of the Walke Moore would give me a few more options and make the tool a bit more versatile. You make a good point about needing to change the setup when the blade is mounted on the handle post. I hadn't thought about that. It wouldn't be a huge deal but would be a bit inconvenient, even with the rotating blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 12 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: The blade rotates, does not drop out...rotates. I am struggling to see any issue with this. The router plane is not a fine finish tool. That last sentence had me thinking for a while because it seemed out of context. Then I realized you clearly never used a router plane, because the tear out will take place outside the shoulder and will be visible, you obviously don't know what I'm talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 12 minutes ago, TIODS said: I think you guys are splitting hairs.. There's still a process to rotate the blade, albeit a very quick and simple one. Trying not to Kev. The claim was change setup repeatedly. I don't see the setup change meaning what it might for a standard router plane iron. This assembly is entirely unique compared to the traditional models. To throw out "setup change" in a discussion comparing to traditional models, loses much because of the design differences. I feel like the salesman here. I don't own one and am happy with my standard models. I just don't feel the comparison was apples to apples accurate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 minute ago, jjongsma said: I'm not sure that I agree that a shoulder plane is a more appropriate tool for trimming the face of a tenon, unless it was a very short tenon. But in any case, I don't own a shoulder plane (or a rabbet block plane) so I tend to use a router plane. And I do often use another piece of wood off the end of the tenon. But that means that you have to have both pieces of wood secured on the same plane, which limits your workholding a little bit (must be flat on the bench rather than held in the vise, etc). So, yes, my current stanley 71 does the job fine. But I do think that the wider sole and some of the additional features of the Walke Moore would give me a few more options and make the tool a bit more versatile. You make a good point about needing to change the setup when the blade is mounted on the handle post. I hadn't thought about that. It wouldn't be a huge deal but would be a bit inconvenient, even with the rotating blade. Ultimately, my point is that they are all very nice router planes and will do the job. Each has their pros and cons. Now, I did go look at the prices and the Walke is over double the price of the LV or LN. So, with this in mind, I would probably tend to go with the LN router plane and their rabbited block plane (for about the same price) and get even more versatility in my shop. To each their own. It's your shop, your money, and your work flow. You have to do what's best for your needs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 5 minutes ago, Immortan D said: Then I realized you clearly never used a router plane, because the tear out will take place outside the shoulder and will be visible, Face of tenon. How does the face of a tenon show outside the shoulder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I'm just glad this was posted, because I didn't think I needed another router plane. I was happy that BCTW didn't make one, but is appears as someone has beaten them to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 minute ago, C Shaffer said: Face of tenon. How does the face of a tenon show outside the shoulder? This argument is a waste of time. Go try using a router plane across the grain without changing direction and you will see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjongsma Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I've done it many times when I'm being lazy. On a non-show surface (like a tenon face), a little bit of blowout isn't the end of the world. And with a slicing cut at the end, you can eliminate most of it. Not sure why the strong words here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I find this easier than typing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Tear out takes place when you're cleaning the corner and you're too lazy to change direction or switch to a shoulder plane. Anyways I like simplicity when it comes to hand tools. I don't like set screws, removable handles, etc. I don't need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I am not sure if this is a digression or non-sequitor, but a tenon I undercut shoulder and face with a chisel at the corner. Half laps are different as the edge shows so I don't use a router plane there. The diamond pointed irons also make skewing cuts rather simple. For the record D, I like seeing how you do things. I just thought the first comment overstated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 That's a neat looking router plane but it's double the cost of LN . I think I will stick with my ancient Stanley with the rosewood knobs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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