Zero footprint outfeed table

[SawDustB]

I've been using my table saw without an outfeed table since I got it 2 years ago. I'd love to have something, since using roller stands all the time is getting old. The problem is I have no room for one. Lately I've been thinking about having a very lightweight fold down table.

 

There's a few things I want:

1. I want it to be very light, so it doesn't compromise the mobile base or make the saw tippy

2. I'd like to have about 30 inches of support from the back of the blade, since most things I cut are under 5 feet

3. I'm planning to fold it down for cross cuts, so I can avoid routing slots in it

4. I want it to be about 1/16" below the saw surface

5. It would be nice to be able to support it right from the saw, but I can use a roller stand if I'm ripping something heavy

6. The table will only be about 2 feet wide, centered on the blade

 

Here's the back of the saw. There's a t track in the underside of the rear rail, which will allow me to attach it. It will have to be set back an inch from the saw table, so the fence can move freely.

 

 

The basic idea is that I'll have brackets attached to the rail, that will have hinges for the table to attach to.

 

I'm just starting to sketch it out. I'd like to make it use a frame of pine, with 1/4" plywood for the surface. That should be light, and strong enough I think. The brackets to attach to the saw will be maple. I may add some plywood to the underside to make it a torsion box construction.

 

I'll add my sketch once I draw it, but what do you think?

 

 

 

 

[wtnhighlander]

Sounds reasonable to me.

[..Kev]

There's lots of videos out there from those who've built these.  I know April Wilkerson did as well as others.  

Unless you're putting your saw away a lot, I'd toss the miter slots in it.  A simple step that you might regret later.

[SawDustB]

I've certainly looked at some other examples. There's one video that's on the same model of saw, and had some good ideas but I think would make the saw want to tip back because the table is rather over built. The mobile base on the ridgid saw works really well, but I don't think it would deal well with much additional weight. I put my saw away at the end of every workshop session, so mobility is very important.

 

The main reason I wasn't going to route the slots is because I want to use the 1/4" plywood for the top, so there's not enough thickness. I suppose I could add a couple of strips of 1/2" plywood under each of the slots... I may go simple to start, and add that later if I find it to be a pain. My aim is to make the table so easy to put up and down that it won't be an issue.

[Ronn W]

Don't use baling twine or string - that's been tried.

[SawDustB]

I think this video is actually pretty close to what I want to do. I may go a bit smaller and simpler.

 

[gee-dub]

This is the most efficient zero footprint outfeed I have come across.  If I ever have to scale down, this will be one of my first projects.  It stores in the same basic footprint as your saw.

[SawDustB]

 

 

This is the most efficient zero footprint outfeed I have come across.  If I ever have to scale down, this will be one of my first projects.  It stores in the same basic footprint as your saw.

 

That's an interesting solution to the problem, although it's not ideal for me. I often like to use my saw for small cuts and cross cuts in its position against the wall. With that table I would have to get it and the outfeed set up for every cut. It also would make things more difficult for getting it out, and as I said, mobility is top of my list.

 

Thanks for suggesting it though. Always good to see alternatives.

[Coop]

32 minutes ago, SawDustB said:

 

 

 

 

That's an interesting solution to the problem, although it's not ideal for me. I often like to use my saw for small cuts and cross cuts in its position against the wall. With that table I would have to get it and the outfeed set up for every cut. It also would make things more difficult for getting it out, and as I said, mobility is top of my list.

 

Thanks for suggesting it though. Always good to see alternatives.

I agree, although a neat concept, it is actually not lessening the "footprint". 

[SawDustB]

I feel like I'm missing something. Why does everyone seem to make their folding outfeed table with a doubled layer of 3/4" sheet goods? I only found the one video above where anything less was used, and he used 3/4" ply. That seems a bit more reasonable, although I think if I add a few ribs underneath I could get away with thinner. Some of these tables must be getting up to 50-75 pounds or more, cantilevered off the back of the saw.

 

I understand if you're going to use it for a workbench, but it seems way overkill for this. Maybe people are trying to avoid sag and go with super simple construction...? Or is this just typical woodworker overbuilding?

[mat60]

All I use is 3/4 Melamine and some ribs underneath as you said and its fine for an outfeed table only. I do feel people are also thinking about some sag in there tables. I think you can get away with something light and yours wont be that big..

[gee-dub]

1 hour ago, SawDustB said:

I feel like I'm missing something. Why does everyone seem to make their folding outfeed table with a doubled layer of 3/4" sheet goods?

You should make your own call on this.  The fact that most examples are pretty stout might be an indication that other folks over the years have realized that a stable robust outfeed platform is a good idea, it just may not apply to your situation.

A tablesaw is designed to cut straight using its table and fence or table and miter gauge as controlling planes.  The feed path is well regulated and intended to be true.  The blade is fixed and does not care for material that tries to deviate from the true path.  This is why you read about burning, rough cuts and kickback when folks try to take stock from the home store and run it across a tablesaw.

With all that in mind, the last thing I want to have happen to my well milled stock during a critical tablesaw operation is to have it wander left or right or wobble about.  When the stock being cut passes the center of mass point it comes to rely on the outfeed support.  If the support is flimsy or influences the material to deviate from the desired path (like a roller stand that is not well aligned) you can get sub-optimal results at best and at worst . . . wham!

If you only want a little support that is easy to setup and store, you already have that with roller stands.  If you want to escape the roller effect (and I get that) you can replace the roller with a field of casters like I do for my bandsaw outfeed while cutting curves.

Another approach that I use for supporting odd stock or sheet goods that hang off the machine to the left.

I know you are asking about an outfeed table but, given your requirements I thought I would toss these out there.

 

 

[SawDustB]

All I use is 3/4 Melamine and some ribs underneath as you said and its fine for an outfeed table only. I do feel people are also thinking about some sag in there tables. I think you can get away with something light and yours wont be that big..

That sounds about right to me. My table is only going to be around 2x2 feet roughly. I found some 1/2" Baltic birch in my wood stash, so I think that's what I'll use. I've also got some laminate, so I may make that into the surface.

 

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[SawDustB]

All good points, gee-dub. We can always rely on you for some other creative solutions. If I'm honest, right now I don't always set up the roller stand when maybe I should because it's a pain getting it leveled and coplanar with my saw. I'm building this to hopefully have something better and more convenient that I'll use. I'm planning to rely on the frame under the table for stiffness, rather than the thickness of the top itself.

[gee-dub]

1 hour ago, SawDustB said:

All good points, gee-dub. We can always rely on you for some other creative solutions. If I'm honest, right now I don't always set up the roller stand when maybe I should because it's a pain getting it leveled and coplanar with my saw. I'm building this to hopefully have something better and more convenient that I'll use. I'm planning to rely on the frame under the table for stiffness, rather than the thickness of the top itself.

Perfect.  You are not alone. I have things I should do that I don't.  Like you, a period of time passes for me . . . then I hear the bell or see the light or whatever you want to call it and carve out some time and effort to come  up with something I will use.  One of the great things about a forum is you can gather all sorts of info, render it down to the parts that are valuable for you and reap the benefits.  Rock on.

[drzaius]

My shop is also my garage & so the table saw gets moved a lot & is never in exactly the same place twice. Add to the mix a concrete floor & it makes leveling & alignment a chore. For these reasons, I wanted an out feed table that was entirely supported by the saw. 

I made it out of 1/2" BB ply with 1.5" thick ribs & perimeter frame. Plastic laminate is applied to both sides - the top for low friction & durability and the bottom for balanced construction. A torsion box, basically. It is 36" long & is fastened with hinges to the fence angle iron. There are 2 folding brackets that swing out from the saw to support the out feed when it's raised & they fold away when the table is lowered. The table is very rigid & has stayed dead flat, is very easy to deploy & stow away, & is pleasure to use.

For ripping longer stock, I also made an 18" extension that easily attaches to the out feed table & is supported by just 1 leg in the center of the far end.

This type of design probably would not work on a contractor saw as it relies on the mass of a cabinet saw to keep it from tipping.

[SawDustB]

 

 

My shop is also my garage & so the table saw gets moved a lot & is never in exactly the same place twice. Add to the mix a concrete floor & it makes leveling & alignment a chore. For these reasons, I wanted an out feed table that was entirely supported by the saw. 

I made it out of 1/2" BB ply with 1.5" thick ribs & perimeter frame. Plastic laminate is applied to both sides - the top for low friction & durability and the bottom for balanced construction. A torsion box, basically. It is 36" long & is fastened with hinges to the fence angle iron. There are 2 folding brackets that swing out from the saw to support the out feed when it's raised & they fold away when the table is lowered. The table is very rigid & has stayed dead flat, is very easy to deploy & stow away, & is pleasure to use.

For ripping longer stock, I also made an 18" extension that easily attaches to the out feed table & is supported by just 1 leg in the center of the far end.

This type of design probably would not work on a contractor saw as it relies on the mass of a cabinet saw to keep it from tipping.

 

That sounds like what I want. I agree, mine will have to be scaled down significantly to work on my contractor saw. Same issues with the floor, though.

 

I started into building the table today. It's based around a piece of 1/2" Baltic birch that I cut to around 27 1/2" long by 22" wide. The frame and ribs are all made from clear pine that I've had in the garage for a good two years now, so it's very dry. I cut a rabbet into the top to support the plywood. The piece that goes on the saw side will be maple so it's a bit more durable.

 

At the end of the evening, here's where construction stood. I haven't glued anything except for doubling the plywood where the miter slots are. This is the underside.

 

 

I'm planning to add one more rib along the length, and then I think it's ready to glue up. I'm actually enjoying working with the pine. It's just so easy to cut after all the maple I've used lately.

[TTOKC]

Doesn't really fit in the "lightweight" category but I did my folding out feed over the weekend.  I got 10 of these cubical desktops on CL for $25 and use them for temp workbenches.  Decided to use one for the outfeed table.  I made folding legs with regular hinges from Lowes but it was kind of a pain to deal with them flopping around so I ditched them.  I have 4 roller stands so it is easier to just prop on of them under it for now until I get some locking leg hinges from Rockler.

Miter slots are on the todo list for tonight after work.

 

[wdwerker]

Even with locking leg hinges a couple of diagonal braces is a good idea.

[SawDustB]

Here's where we are after the initial glue up. It's flat within 1/16" or so, which is good enough for me. The glue up was a pain with all the pieces, but I wanted to make sure it came out flat. I'm still going to add another rib lengthwise, with a half lap join to the horizontal rib in the middle. It seems reasonably stiff, but it's light like I intended.

 

Next up I need to figure out my hinges. I have some piano hinge I could use, but I'm actually thinking two heavier duty hinges may be the way to go. I'm going to need to pick them up tomorrow to continue.

 

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[SawDustB]

Quick update tonight. I added my center rib, using a tight half lap joint to the existing one. I just cut it with hand tools. Pine will let you get away with a lot, as long as it's not too loose. I also pinned the end grain frame joints with dowels. Maybe not required with the plywood glued on top, but it was easy.

 

I picked up some heavy duty gate hinges that I'll use at least on the saw attachment, and I'll see on the leg attachment. They might be a bit bulky there. You can see one in my picture. I need to add one more piece to allow the hinge attachment to the table, now that I have them in hand.

 

 

 

Do you think I could get away with gluing laminate (Formica) on just the top? The ribs are either 2 or 2 1/2", depending on if they're at the edge or not. I think I'm safe from warping... I could just varnish it, but the laminate is probably more durable.

 

[pkinneb]

2 hours ago, SawDustB said:

...do you think I could get away with gluing laminate (Formica) on just the top? The ribs are either 2 or 2 1/2", depending on if they're at the edge or not. I think I'm safe from warping... I could just varnish it, but the laminate is probably more durable.

 

Yes you could laminate just the top but you are correct it will hold up better if you do both. Regardless putting a bevel on the edge of the laminate will help you from catching on the edge and prematurely wearing it out.

[drzaius]

I did both. Not much extra work & it's good insurance against future movement.

[SawDustB]

You're both right, of course. It's more that I'm not sure I'll be able to put laminate on the bottom with the ribs and other pieces in the way. I'll have to take a closer look at it, but it's basically a last step at this point anyway. I'll have to make sure the leading edge that is toward the saw can't get caught by any stock moving through. I made that piece out of maple, with the intent of rounding it over and having that take the abuse, but I forgot about the idea of using laminate until after I was well into building.

I had a couple of minutes over lunch, so I decided to test fit with the hinges and try it on the saw. So far so good. The height is about 1/8" high, but that can be fixed easily by adding a spacer between the hinges and the rear fence rail. There are two bolt positions in the hinges, and it just clears the fence with them in the outer holes. I'll get a little more clearance when I lower the table and round over the leading edge. Obviously the leg is just temporary - I still have to make a support to cantilever it from the saw base.

 

[mat60]

I think you are really going to enjoy using this.   Nice how easy you will be able to fold away when your done for the day.