Another Roubo... (now finished!)


Art

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Are you planning on using holdfasts? If you are you might want to take the thickness down to under 4" while it's still easy. I can't remember how think mine is but it is too think to work properly. It's a PITA to have to widen out the bottom of the hole to get the holdfast to work properly. If you aren't sure consider it. If you aren't planing on using a traditional holdfast ignore this.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/251/title/Some Tips on Using Our Gramercy Holdfasts

Link to holdfasts at the top that are inexpensive and awesome.

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19 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Are you planning on using holdfasts? If you are you might want to take the thickness down to under 4" while it's still easy. I can't remember how think mine is but it is too think to work properly. It's a PITA to have to widen out the bottom of the hole to get the holdfast to work properly. If you aren't sure consider it. If you aren't planing on using a traditional holdfast ignore this.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/251/title/Some Tips on Using Our Gramercy Holdfasts

Link to holdfasts at the top that are inexpensive and awesome.

Yeah, I thought about that as I was posting.  I think I will take them down a bit.

 

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The Gramercy hold fasts are great. I just used hide glue to stick on some leather to the pad, and haven't had any issues with it falling off.

I wouldn't go thinning down your slabs, though. Mine is 4" and I don't have any issues with the hold fasts (hard maple). It's also possible that at a later step you might want to plane it down again, or that you'll lose some thickness in the final bench flattening. It's kind of hard to add it back on.

Even if you need to lose some thickness for the hold fasts, if it's only a little that should be pretty easy to make them work. You could just put a really heavy chamfer on the holes from the underside, and that would do what was required. Like I said though, I doubt you'll have an issue.

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2 hours ago, SawDustB said:

The Gramercy hold fasts are great. I just used hide glue to stick on some leather to the pad, and haven't had any issues with it falling off.

I wouldn't go thinning down your slabs, though. Mine is 4" and I don't have any issues with the hold fasts (hard maple). It's also possible that at a later step you might want to plane it down again, or that you'll lose some thickness in the final bench flattening. It's kind of hard to add it back on.

Even if you need to lose some thickness for the hold fasts, if it's only a little that should be pretty easy to make them work. You could just put a really heavy chamfer on the holes from the underside, and that would do what was required. Like I said though, I doubt you'll have an issue.

That's good to hear.  I do think, however, that I'll take them down to an even 4", just because I like round numbers.  That extra 1/16 was bugging me...

And for the record, the plan is to use the Gramercy holdfasts, mainly because they're easy for me to get at Lee Valley, and the fact I've heard nothing but good things about them.

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4 hours ago, Art said:

That's good to hear.  I do think, however, that I'll take them down to an even 4", just because I like round numbers.  That extra 1/16 was bugging me...

And for the record, the plan is to use the Gramercy holdfasts, mainly because they're easy for me to get at Lee Valley, and the fact I've heard nothing but good things about them.

Knowing that you are planning to final flatten it, are you going hand tools or router? 

If router, I would plan to take the final thickness then. Never know what happens between now and then.  Would suck to get bad tear out or deep snipe at 4"

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3 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Knowing that you are planning to final flatten it, are you going hand tools or router? 

If router, I would plan to take the final thickness then. Never know what happens between now and then.  Would suck to get bad tear out or deep snipe at 4"

Any final flattening will be done with hand tools.  I'm hoping that there isn't to much to do.  Once the laminations are done and perfectly flat, how much should I expect it to move?

My planer (Hammer A3-31) has a spiral cutterhead so there hasn't been any tear out, and as far as I can tell, there is no snipe.  Having said that, I still haven't taken them to final length, so any snipe will get chopped off anyway.

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1 hour ago, Art said:

Any final flattening will be done with hand tools.  I'm hoping that there isn't to much to do.  Once the laminations are done and perfectly flat, how much should I expect it to move

Being hand flattening, disregard all else. 

 

How much you should expect it to move? 

Even if everything is dead balls on, I have seen quite a few people find some warpage after securing the slabs to the base. 

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Man these roubo builds are really giving me the itch to build a better bench. Did you get the 2.5 HP 14BX?

Yeah, I got the 2.5 hp.  I already had 220 in the shop, and it was only $100 more for the bigger motor.  I'm not sure it's worth it to upgrade your electrical to go from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 hp on a 14" BS, but since it was already there, I figured why not?

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52 minutes ago, procell40 said:

looking good!  Good call on the bandsaw , i have the 14/12 and Love it , but wish i got the BX instead , that foot break is handy!!

The brake was what made the decision for me.  My 11 yr old daughter and my wife are both getting more interested in working in the shop, so everything we get has safety in mind.

45 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Nice fit achieved! Looks great!

Thanks!

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7 minutes ago, Art said:

Yeah, I got the 2.5 hp.  I already had 220 in the shop, and it was only $100 more for the bigger motor.  I'm not sure it's worth it to upgrade your electrical to go from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 hp on a 14" BS, but since it was already there, I figured why not?

I like the extra power. I've bogged mine a few times doing things i probably shouldn't. The brake is nice as an off switch when your holding 2 long heavy pieces and just want to shut the saw off. I use it the most for that.

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1 minute ago, Chestnut said:

I like the extra power. I've bogged mine a few times doing things i probably shouldn't. The brake is nice as an off switch when your holding 2 long heavy pieces and just want to shut the saw off. I use it the most for that.

A couple of months ago I came across some oak logs that I roughly milled with a chainsaw.  They're now waiting to be resawn into useable boards.  Most of them are close to 12", so I'll certainly by putting the full resaw capacity of the saw to the test.  Once I get them all cut, I'll post a review.

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