Bedside Tables


h3nry

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OK, so here's my latest effort at furniture making: a pair of bedside tables...

The construction is all Walnut with a simple mortice-&-tennon frame with the stretchers attached on the diagonal with dowels. The top and shelf are hammer-veneered ply with mitred frames. Finished with Deft danish oil and wax.

Practise makes perfect, and as far as the veneering goes I still need more practise, bacause the results were definitely less than perfect, although non-woodworkers seem not to notice.

This is my first attempt at string inlay, my tools were simply a scratcher made from a piece of broken knife blade attached to the end of a marking-guage for the straight lines, and attached to a block of wood with a nail in for the curves - although primitive it seemed to work.

Also my first attempt at hand-cut mouldings - thanks to Shannon and Bob for the how-to vids. With my newly acquired moulding planes I managed to avoid using the router completely, making this my first project made entirely without power tools (except for the vacuum cleaner).

The drawers were the first time I've cut half-blind dovetails, but they really weren't any more difficult than through dovetails. I remain convinced that the most difficult joint to get right in woodwork is the simple mitre, and all four of the mitred frames here had some small gaps that needed filling.

I'm still bad at cutting smooth curves. There are some curves but they are on the stretchers hidden under the shelf where they can't be seen. I only put them in for practise really.

some other comments I have, and things I learnt:

- The walnut veneer I bought for the edge of the drawer front didn't really match the grain of the solid walnut, and when the finish was applied didn't darken in colour in the same way, so it ended up looking a bit out of place.

- When the finish oil soaked into the tulipwood banding the colour really popped, and I think it ended up a bit too bright pink.

- Scraping the banding down to match the thickness of the burl veneer was difficult to achieve without damaging either the banding or the veneer.

- In my sketchup model I didn't really think about how I was going to attach the table-top to the frame, so when I finally got to thinking about it I discovered that there was very little room for the attaching blocks without interfering with the drawer, making the blocks somewhat smaller and more fragile than I would have liked.

- The board I used for the legs didn't have enough clear straight grain for the front legs of both tables, and the grain pattern on one of them is a bit askew to the stringing, I need to be more careful picking boards with appropriate grain in the lumber yard.

So there they are ... any comments or tips on what I should have or could have done differently in construction or design? or suggestions on how to go from here and advance in my next project ... let's hear 'em.

hmmm ... I see my next project ought to be a new headboard - any recommendations for a complementing design?

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Where do I start?

I love that hidden uplift detail on the lower shelf, making it appear to float without something like dowel pegs but still being a fantastic structural and design detail.

I appreciate the detail on the device to make the string inlay grooves, and had never realized it was that simple. Thanks!

I cannot get past how marvelous (and simple) the string inlay looks.

While I agree that the figure 8 fastener is quick and simple, I appreciate the time and effort taken on the wood blocks (having only recently read about the process to make them). I question why they were placed there, but I'm not privy to all the details.

I hate that I showed it to my wife.... Now I have to make a set...(Care to lend a hand with that? ;) )

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Thanks guys, when I look at my own work I see all the scratches and blemishes that I couldn't get rid of - I really am my own worst critic, so it's nice to hear an unbiassed critical view from woodworkers.

I was worried that someone would say that cutting my own veneer would be the way to go - I don't think I'm quite ready for that, with every piece of veneer a different and uneven thickness.

I think the figure-8 fasteners would have been a good choice - why didn't I think of that?

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when you start criticising too much walk way come back a month later and look at it. if you spend too much time looking at it you will only see flaws. looks at it from across the room. look at it in the room your puting it in because your shop will probably have such harsh light you will only see the flaws where as in the bed room where the light is dimer you will only see the form. and remember no matter how well you build it its still only wood and wood dents and chips and scratches everything gets worn out when its used.

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Thanks guys, when I look at my own work I see all the scratches and blemishes that I couldn't get rid of - I really am my own worst critic, so it's nice to hear an unbiassed critical view from woodworkers.

Hehe, I think everyone who builds stuff has that problem. I'm just now starting to get to the point when I show something I made I don't start with, "I hate it, cause I screwed up this and this and this" :)

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  • 4 months later...

I thought I'd post an update here.

 

I finally finished a bed to go between the tables. It definitely improves the room getting rid of the cheap Ikea bed.

 

I tried to make the style match the tables, partly because I didn't want to be battling against learning new techniques, and just concentrate on improving my existing skills. Fortunately I still had just enough veneer left from the same flitch to match. I think it turned out all right.

 

Although it was supposed to be a simple design, I did underestimate how big a piece of furniture a bed is, and it seemed to take much longer to complete than I anticipated.

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