Spend $1,000 for me


Lee Bussy

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Okay guys I'm down to the last $1K I can spend for a while on tools.  I am down to needing a band saw and a jointer.  I do have access to the woodworking guild here where they have the larger stuff so I'm looking to cover the 75-90% of the stuff I will do at home.  I know I can get both for that sort of lettuce, but can I get tools that won't p*ss me off?  You can get into a no-frills 14" Grizzly for $425 ... on up through their best 14" for about a grand.  Or there's a 17" and hoping a good deal comes along on a jointer (I keep missing them).

Anyone want to give me some ideas how I might make this work?

Edited by LBussy
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How big a jointer are you looking for?  I had a delta X5 (6") for a few years and it was great for the 650 CDN it cost.  I recently upgraded to a HH model with long tables, but that delta was an excellent value for the money.

Edited by Pug
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That's a fair question.  It's even more fair to say I have no idea. :)   I would like to be able to do longer stock but let's be realistic:  My likely projects are smaller furniture items like living room side tables, maybe an entertainment center, I have a hard time seeing me using anything longer than 48".  Then there's the width.  I can't see a 4" working, 6" is okay maybe but it seems like I might be limited there.  Can't afford an 8".  What's a guy to do?  Maybe use the planer and a sled for wider boards?

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I hate messing around with sleds and such.  I agree with TIODS, go for a high quality jointer. 

I also have the PM 6", but I opted for the HH, so the price went WAY UP.  I am also in Canada, so I got roasted on exchange too.  Either way, it is still a great machine and I love it.

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I have a line on a PM 50 (used of course) but a new PM 6" is over my 1k budget.   What sorta range should the model 50 be in?

No clue..  Would depend on what they are new, what kind of shape the used one is in, etc..

Here's the 54 for $1019.00  Obviously tax and shipping would add to the price but, you may be able to find one locally.  Certainly close to your price range..

http://bispowermatic.com/powermatic-1791279dxk-54a-deluxe-6-inch-1-hp-jointer-with-quick-set-knives-115-230-volt-1-phase.html

 

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No clue..  Would depend on what they are new, what kind of shape the used one is in, etc..

Here's the 54 for $1019.00  Obviously tax and shipping would add to the price but, you may be able to find one locally.  Certainly close to your price range..

http://bispowermatic.com/powermatic-1791279dxk-54a-deluxe-6-inch-1-hp-jointer-with-quick-set-knives-115-230-volt-1-phase.html

 

Hrm ... that seller has free shipping CONUS.

Buying a new quality tool only hurts once.  I guess I have gotten by this far without a band saw, I can make it a while further.  I have a scroll saw and the table saw I guess.  I'd not be able to veneer/resaw.  I guess I *could* resaw on the table saw but I'd lose 1/8" each time and be limited to what, 6" depth?  Maybe 7".

I have the Grizz G055X 14" bandsaw ($825) and the G0452 6" jointer ($550) and really like both. I know, a tad over the 1k budget.

It's getting harder to get the wife to give me "a couple hundred more."  Especially after that visit to the Lie Neilsen table at WWIA. :)

Just came across an early seventies Rockwell 37-220 6" Jointer.  Is that the good Rockwell or the bad one?

00L0L_2rE02U3KHOx_600x450.thumb.jpg.6ea3

Edited by LBussy
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I'm split here.  I definately see the merits of a jointer or the band saw  first. I hate milling stock by hand but the band saw has also become such a staple of my shop. I have often thought about moving my table saw out for a few weeks just to see how it feels. If I had to do a full project without one or the other.  I'd unplug the band saw and just use the ts, so that puts me in jointer first camp as well. 

With that budget, it is POSSIBLE to get both but not new.  My g0555anv with riser block and shipping came in over $700.

I then bought a used delta clone 8"jointer on cl. Yes I did getty some frustration in adjusting it the first time but it waseems a learning thing.  First time shimming jointer beds. 

If your open to used, and depending on your location,  try opening up your search area.  

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As I understand - you have access to all these tools at the local guild workshop. So if you just get one, the question is really not how much will you use the tool, but how many trips to the guild workshop it will save you.

If you use a jointer every time you start working on a piece of wood, but will only use the bandsaw for resawing - then do all your resawing at the guild workshop in one session, and keep a jointer at home.

But if you're in the habit of doing all your milling up front at the beginning of a project, but will spend a lot of time cutting curves on pieces - then do all your jointing in one session at the guild workshop, and keep a bandsaw at home.

For me it would be a no-brainer - a bandsaw and a #7 plane - my personal pain threshold lies somewhere between jointing a board by hand, and resawing wide boards.

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So potentially stupid question: how would I, a relative begin her at woodworking, tell the difference in quality between a grizzly and a powermaster? Would I ever notice it?

Can you tell the difference between a Honda and a Lexus?    Can you tell the difference between a fine microbew and a Bud Light?   Can you tell the difference between a VCR and a BluRay?  Can you tell the difference between the fast food and fine dining?     You don't have to be an expert to appreciate the quality of the fit and finish of the better tools....easier setup, simpler adjustments, smoother operation....just that feeling of a quality thing.

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Jointer or Bandsaw, which one to get first, depends on what you do.

I have a bandsaw and it's very well integrated into my workflow. I make small stuff and it almost always involves cutting curves and shapes. Doing that with a jig saw would be a lot more difficult or less enjoyable.

I don't have a jointer, I use my hand planes for jointing and squaring my pieces. 

Not having a bandsaw, for me, would mean putting constraints on my creativity. Not having a jointer means I have to work harder, but I actually enjoy hand planing stuff anyways.

That said, if your plans include making serious furniture in the short term, then a jointer maybe the way to go.

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So potentially stupid question: how would I, a relative begin her at woodworking, tell the difference in quality between a grizzly and a powermaster? Would I ever notice it?

Your bank account would know the difference but you might not see any glaring difference between the two besides the wider beds that the Powermatic has. If this is going to be your last purchase for a while I would strongly consider a Grizzly 14" bandsaw and Grizzly 6" jointer. I would much rather have the capability of both a bandsaw and jointer rather than just a 6" powermatic jointer. I have owned both the Grizzly machines and was very happy with how they performed. With proper setup they will work just fine. 

BTW: I have a 10% off coupon from Grizzly that I am not going to use that you are more than welcome to have. It expires on October 20th so have to let me know sooner than later if you want it. 

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As often happens, a hitch in my plans.  My truck was in the shop so I drove my wife's car.  She didn't tell me she cracked her windshield ("oh yeah ..."), that the blower was making funny noises ) I let the smoke out of it yesterday, disgusting acrid smoke filled the car) or that it needed an oil change.  

I no longer am in the market for a Powermatic anything.   Jmaichel thank you for the offer.   I'll see what's left in my bank account pronto and let you know?

 

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I would go 3hp bandsaw first. There are ways to get flat square stock without a jointer...There aren't many great options for resawing without a bandsaw. 

I was thinking about this post.  First, I can't imagine needing a 3HP band saw.  I don;t know a lot about saws but the ones I used at the guild were not that powerful but seemed to resaw nicely (with sharp blades).  One of them is probably that big but I didn;t use it.

Anyway, to my point, I was reading the guild newsletter this morning and read a notice about the Hand Tool SIG.  That reminded me of what I saw (if you will excuse the pun) from the hand tool guys.  They definitely resaw with hand tools.  Sure it's a bit of exercise but they did it and the work was gorgeous.  Curves are done with various other saws.  

This all left me considering how much it would cost a guy to go with the manual equivalent of a band saw, or the manual equivalent of a jointer.  With what I just spent at WWIA on some planes, it seems like it would be "cheaper" to get a couple used saws, tune them up, and skip a bandsaw for a while.

... of course I am saying that never having tried to rip 8' of Hickory with a hand saw.  :)

Anyway, just a musing I had.

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I was thinking about this post.  First, I can't imagine needing a 3HP band saw.  I don;t know a lot about saws but the ones I used at the guild were not that powerful but seemed to resaw nicely (with sharp blades).  One of them is probably that big but I didn;t use it.

Anyway, to my point, I was reading the guild newsletter this morning and read a notice about the Hand Tool SIG.  That reminded me of what I saw (if you will excuse the pun) from the hand tool guys.  They definitely resaw with hand tools.  Sure it's a bit of exercise but they did it and the work was gorgeous.  Curves are done with various other saws.  

This all left me considering how much it would cost a guy to go with the manual equivalent of a band saw, or the manual equivalent of a jointer.  With what I just spent at WWIA on some planes, it seems like it would be "cheaper" to get a couple used saws, tune them up, and skip a bandsaw for a while.

... of course I am saying that never having tried to rip 8' of Hickory with a hand saw.  :)

Anyway, just a musing I had.

All valid points and highly subjective. Ideally, those who don't want to sweat flattening or resawing by hand would use a machine for both, but I realize some really enjoy doing this by hand and get satisfaction from it. 

To answer the first question- I say 3hp because that's what I use and If I had to buy a bandsaw again I would go no less than 3hp. Sure you can resaw with less hp but the price difference is negligble over the life of the tool. If you decide to build a roubo out of hard maple some day, you'll thank me later. :D

The reason I say bandsaw before jointer is somewhat simple (yet I fully understand many will disagree). If you already own a planer and table saw, and are buying s2s lumber, flipping your stock on the planer will get you so damn close to parallel that it's workable for just about any hobby shop project you'll do as a beginner. When you are at the point of building large pieces of fine furniture then yes a jointer is almost a must. A quick jig on the table saw takes care of edge jointing. So far my hand saw is still in its case.

Now go grab your piece of 8/4 stock that is 8' long and get out your hand saw to split that in half....stand back, look at the task at hand, and wish you bought a bandsaw first. 

 

Edited by Janello
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