Popular Post wouldwurker Posted February 12, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Loving my new toy. All that stuff about the LN blades being good to go out of the box...not even close to what a little work on the back with the ruler trick and secondary bevel with the water-stones did for it. Quilted Alder in the scrap bin...who knew? Rocketman decided it was time to stop smoothing 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 That's some pretty alder. No problems with tear out on that grain with a low angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post estesbubba Posted February 12, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 6 hours ago, drzaius said: That's some pretty alder. No problems with tear out on that grain with a low angle? I have the LN LAJ and smoother and it seems that sharp is more important than angle. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted February 12, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 It's a nice plane, I enjoy it. I don't smooth long grain with it though...mine is dedicated mostly to end grain situations and the like. If you plan to use it for long grain, I'd suggest grinding a higher bevel angle. I'd get a second blade for that so you have the low angle available when you need it. And just to be a troublemaker ...Your definition of "quilt" is way more liberal than mine. That's a stretch. Perhaps "light blistering" would be more accurate? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Probably my favorite bench plane. Enjoy! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Like Eric suggested I have two blades. LN suggested 35 for domestics and 50 for figured for the secondary bevel which makes the effective angles 47 and 62. I have my LAJ at 25 for end grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 OT but, what did you take those pictures with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 OT but, what did you take those pictures with? iPhone 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Like Eric suggested I have two blades. LN suggested 35 for domestics and 50 for figured for the secondary bevel which makes the effective angles 47 and 62. I have my LAJ at 25 for end grain. Are you guys really thinking about specific angles like that? Outside of my shoulder plane, I only have this one and my low angle block, but I just hone the secondary bevel a little higher than the factory grind. Related topic...I actually went to buy a 4 or a 4.5...but really wanted my thumb and forefinger to be able to turn the adjustment knob while I held it...just out of reach though. Was really awkward to get to the knob...even when i took my hands off the grip. My hands are normal sized, btw...I don't have tiny carney hands Anyone else experience this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 35 minutes ago, vinnyjojo said: iPhone 7 You know, I almost hate it that my phone takes better pictures than my SLR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 53 minutes ago, vinnyjojo said: Are you guys really thinking about specific angles like that? Outside of my shoulder plane, I only have this one and my low angle block, but I just hone the secondary bevel a little higher than the factory grind. Related topic...I actually went to buy a 4 or a 4.5...but really wanted my thumb and forefinger to be able to turn the adjustment knob while I held it...just out of reach though. Was really awkward to get to the knob...even when i took my hands off the grip. My hands are normal sized, btw...I don't have tiny carney hands Anyone else experience this? I am only processing angles when a re-grind is necessary. Micro bevels by feel are not something I bother with setting an exact angle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 2 hours ago, vinnyjojo said: Are you guys really thinking about specific angles like that? Sharp trumps angle every time. I only keep track of angle when I am putting the blade in my jig. I don't think about blade angle when using them, and I don't switch blades depending on what I am planing. My planes only have one blade each. Caveat- I think if you want to take a larger shaving a higher angle might mitigate tear out. This would also make the plane harder to push and the result wouldn't be that much better. And a larger shaving with a smoother isn't something I'd consider wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Congrats on the new plane ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Nice looking plane. How does it compare to a bevel down smoother? I've been thinking of getting a new smoother, and the low angle looks appealing because I could use it for shooting end grain as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 I didn't regrind the factory bevel but honed a 38 degree secondary bevel angle (plus the existing plane angle...plus the back bevel angle....so whatever the heck that is....let's say 60. Night and day on tricky grain and face grain. So much more pleasurable to use. The low angle is nice...but man...when you catch a bit of funky grain that's coming up at the same angle as your approach, that blade practically turns into a snowshovel. It doesn't tear out...it DIGS out...by the root...and smoothly at that. That would be the major drawback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Cool, thanks Vinny. I ended up buying the LV version in the mean time, and found the same thing. I've got a 35 degree secondary on mine now, and it actually makes it usable for smoothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 For smoothing with a BU plane, use a 50 degree secondary bevel. This will take care of any potential tearout. Note that a 35 degree secondary bevel creates a common cutting angle - no different from a basic Stanley #4. Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 On 14/3/2017 at 2:36 AM, vinnyjojo said: The low angle is nice...but man...when you catch a bit of funky grain that's coming up at the same angle as your approach, that blade practically turns into a snowshovel. It doesn't tear out...it DIGS out...by the root...and smoothly at that. That would be the major drawback. That's the reason I stopped using my LN LAJ, unpredictability, at least on the hardwoods I work with. I know I can regrind the angle or buy a higher angle blade for it, but I favored my standard planes instead. I feel more confident working with them and I always get good results. I now have a toothed blade installed on my LAJ and use it for heavy stock removal only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted March 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 For smoothing with a BU plane, use a 50 degree secondary bevel. This will take care of any potential tearout. Note that a 35 degree secondary bevel creates a common cutting angle - no different from a basic Stanley #4. Regards from Perth Derek Might be the same angle, but the bevel up v. bevel down is very very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treesner Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 What's the ruler trick? Just bought one of these Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 10 minutes ago, treesner said: What's the ruler trick? Just bought one of these Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You use a thin ruler to establish a micro bevel on the back of the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 I realize the 35 degree angle puts me at the equivalent of a standard angle plane. I was trying that before going higher so I knew what the difference was. I'll give the higher angle a try, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 16 hours ago, vinnyjojo said: Might be the same angle, but the bevel up v. bevel down is very very different. How so? Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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