Are new block planes under $100 really unusable?


chrisphr

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So total novice here so please excuse my ignorance. About two months ago bought a bunch of power tools at a great deal on Craig's list, powermatic contractor saw, bunch of routers and table, mortiser, drill press, planer, jointer, bench combo sander, biscuit jointer, wet sharpener, bunch of clamps, and a ton of accessories. Up till now, spent most of my time organizing and building storage just so I could fit all that stuff in the garage and still park my car.

I'm getting to the point that I want do some actual woodworking. From all the instructional materials I've been looking at, I'm going to need some additional hand tools as well. While I am just a hobbyist (more like a wannabe hobbyist) I want all my woodworking screw ups to be my fault, not due to the tools I am using.

Since I am using hand tools to supplement power tool woodworking is there a different quality standard I can get away with? Searches on other forums suggest $50 block planes are garbage and I'd be a fool to consider anything less than a top of the line plane (expensive) or restore a pre ww2 plane (not going there).

Stanley acceptable quality? Groz from rockler? Or are these tools unusable for fine woodworking as some suggest?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

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I've been using a Stanley low angle block plane for years and I have no complaints. The secret is to keep the blade sharp and learn how to "tune" your plane for the best results. Back in the day, I think I paid sixty bucks for it. I don't know what they sell for now.

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Groz is junk in my opinion. Newer Stanley is not near as good as it used to be. My 5 year old Stanley block plane broke recently, the bolt on the adjustable front shoe was only spot welded in place and it broke off. Stanley/Black and Decker will get less and less of my business.

Replaced it with a Veritas / Lee Valley for a serious price but the quality is Awesome!

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Around my shop, the block plane probably gets more use than all my other hand tools combined...  I suspect I'm not alone...  It's not worth skimping on a block plane...

 

You can certainly find a decent bp plane on eBay and, with a little work, end-up with something really nice...  There are loads of good-quality hand tools available on eBay...

 

But if you're going to buy new, I would spend the $$ and get something decent...

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I bought a Lie Nielsen low angle rebating block plane, I use it for tenons, for me it doubles as a shoulder plane. No messing about fine tuning, worked out of the box, hone the blade, learn to set it and get to work. I work out what I might need for each project if I don't have something or a suitable alternative I look to get something. Spreads the cost and amount of learning involved. I prefer fewer better quality tools and know if it's not working it's probably my technique!

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Thanks for all the great replies. Sounds like cheap tools will require a bit of fiddling to get to work acceptably (if they ever work acceptably), while more expensive tools require less tuning time. I think you've convinced me to avoid the cheap stuff, but still debating going for veritas new or Stanley old.

On eBay what should I be looking for in a Stanley, any model 9 1/2? Or any specific sub branding (sweetheart, etc.)? Anything else I should be looking for, or ask the seller?

If I can pick one up for $30 that is low enough to maybe take the risk of going used. If it doesn't work, at least it wasn't a ton of money. Also, anyone have a link to how I would go about tuning a used plane?

If I go with the veritas, is the pm-v11 blade the way to go? Only $10 more at $149 (when in that price range why not go for gold?).

Thanks again!

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I have the same block plane Daren mentioned.  For a beginner, I think the worse thing you can do is start out with a cheap block plane.  Yes, they can be made useable with some work, which includes sharpening the blade (they never come sharp enough) flattening the sole, and other maintenance work.  The LN block plane, basically came useable straight of the box.  I would much rather see a brand new beginner spend time learning how to use a ready to go block plane, to get the feel of how it should work, before buying a plane that needs a lot of setup.

 

If LN and Veritas is out of your price range, as others have said, there are a lot of nice and ready to go Stanley Block planes on ebay.

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As a beginner, though, it's so hard to justify spending that large a bundle on a tool before you've even had a chance to spend money on the wood.  It's almost like you need to experience what a cheap tool can do to truly understand what a quality new tool (or good used tool) is capable of.  

 

But that first experience of comparison is more than enough to convince most people to invest wisely in your tools.  $50 per cheap tool followed by $150+ for new for each tool adds up quickly.  $50 for a cheap tool and then follow it up with quality tools for higher prices all the way around, and you might have a good lesson there.  

 

(But sometimes there are those "cheap" tools that end up being diamonds in the rough.)

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Franklin Pug and I are on the same page here.

I'd buy the Veritas Low Angel if I didn't already have one. I prefer it to the LN, which is also great by the way. It is an absolute pleasure to use and considering it is probably my most used plane... well, you see where I'm going here.

The other good thing is if you get a Veritas or a LN block plane and as a beginner give up the hobby or something happens, you can sell it and get some large portion of it's cost back. As long as you take care of it.

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Just to contrast the advice so far, my "hobby" planes were all purchased second hand. My block plane being the cheapest at £7.00. Yes it did need work, but not too much. Results can be seen here. Not even an adjustable mouth, just a nice tight one. 

That's not to say a premium tool is not a very wise choice, but don't feel inferior if you can't have the latest and best.

And Chet, I have block plane envy  :)

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Thanks for all the great replies. Sounds like cheap tools will require a bit of fiddling to get to work acceptably (if they ever work acceptably), while more expensive tools require less tuning time. I think you've convinced me to avoid the cheap stuff, but still debating going for veritas new or Stanley old.

On eBay what should I be looking for in a Stanley, any model 9 1/2? Or any specific sub branding (sweetheart, etc.)? Anything else I should be looking for, or ask the seller?

If I can pick one up for $30 that is low enough to maybe take the risk of going used. If it doesn't work, at least it wasn't a ton of money. Also, anyone have a link to how I would go about tuning a used plane?

If I go with the veritas, is the pm-v11 blade the way to go? Only $10 more at $149 (when in that price range why not go for gold?).

Thanks again!

The VM steel is excellent. I always buy it if its an option.

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At risk of ruining Graham's block-plane envy, I'll admit to having the standard one and the standard low angle. But the Star-trek on is snazzy. If you buy it I'd love to hear a review.

Ha! I'm probably going with the standard version, I'm so green the most value you are going to get from me in a review is going to boil down to "it looks cool".

To your point earlier, if the most I get out of this new hobby is a few crooked pieces of furniture than at least I could sell the plane on eBay.

To JHop's point, while I've never owned a block plane I do have a cheap hardware store plane that I've used in the past to hang doors (that I've never attempted to sharpen), maybe I can get a sense for quality comparing to that.

You hand tool guys are pretty cool. Thanks again for all your help!

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I have two pairs of Stanley block planes.  60-1/2s and 9-12/s.  The newest ones are Burgundy from the 1950s or 60s.  One pair has the irons honed straight across for the edges of boards.  The other pair take a couple of thousandths honed in a radius for use on the face of a board.  One 60-1/2 stays in my tool belt all the time.  I've never had any problem with any of them, and would never see any need to buy a new one.  The two blue ones, and one burgundy one came off of ebay.  They're all in really good shape, but I paid way less than a hundred bucks for any of them.

 

I replaced a honed away iron with a Hock iron, but I wish it was back where it came from.  Square ends don't work in a palm.  I've intended to grind them down on a CBN wheel, but haven't thought about it at the right time.  That one doesn't end up getting used much.

 

Back 40 years ago, or so, when I was young and stupid,  I did strip the threads in a 60-1/2.  I finally fixed that one a few years ago by retapping the threads and using the metric replacement parts.

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Old Stanley/cheap new planes vs. new expensive planes basically come down to how valuable your time is to you. Lapping the sole flat is pretty easy, because the plane is small, and de-burring is easily done with a fine mill file. Basically any block plane can be turned into an excellent plane if your willing to but an hour or two of time into it.

 

secondly, you should decide if you want a low or standard angle block plane. 

 

 

IF you want a low angle:

Id say buy a new plane, as none of the old Stanley's have a lateral juster.

 

If you want a standard angle:

for old Stanley planes I'd recommend a 9 1/2, 15, 16, 18, or 19. 

 

 

 

Right now I have a LV apron plane (low angle), and an old Stanley #15. I think I payed something like $20 for the #15. to clean it up all i did was, de-grease it, de-rust it, and lap the sole flat. I actually have a cambered blade on it right now and use it as a mini smoother.

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