wtnhighlander Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Thanks Coop! I was trying to do exactly a you described, and have done boxes that way before. Its the walnut 'straps' that keep throwing me off...and me not paying close attention to how the box rides along the fence. By the way, the view is from a cabin overlooking Pigeon Forge TN. Gonna hate to go home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Thanks Coop! I was trying to do exactly a you described, and have done boxes that way before. Its the walnut 'straps' that keep throwing me off...and me not paying close attention to how the box rides along the fence. By the way, the view is from a cabin overlooking Pigeon Forge TN. Gonna hate to go home!Always good to see a "feet up" shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted September 24, 2015 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 A lot of "life" has been slowing down progress on these boxes, but here is a quick update. The pine box has a lift tab added to the lid, and 5 coats of danish oil. The cherry box has some inlay on top, and a couple coats of danish oil. The pine box is finished, and I'm working on linings for both. I want to add some shellac on the cherry box, mostly to help seal over the inlay, but for a bit of sheen as well. Any suggestions on how long to let the DO cure before top-coating? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Love those straps...so cool. I give DO at 3-4 weeks or until it doesn't smell sweet anymore before top-coating. Personally, I'd leave these as is, signed, sealed, and delivered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 A lot of "life" has been slowing down progress on these boxes, but here is a quick update. The pine box has a lift tab added to the lid, and 5 coats of danish oil. The cherry box has some inlay on top, and a couple coats of danish oil. The pine box is finished, and I'm working on linings for both. I want to add some shellac on the cherry box, mostly to help seal over the inlay, but for a bit of sheen as well. Any suggestions on how long to let the DO cure before top-coating?Ya just can't help yourself can you Ross? You just gotta keep knocking it outa the park! Ya done very good young'un! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 If any oil will transfer to clean piece of paper or cloth it isn't cured. If the oil smell is still significant keep waiting . Any feeling of tackiness keep waiting.....Beautiful hummingbird ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Love the hummingbird on the cherry box. Well done Ross!Give the DO at least a week to be safe. DO can take a while to cure, depending upon number and thickness of coats. Since you're top-coating with shellac you're at less risk, but just to err on the side of caution...give it a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Great boxes man. Love the inlay details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Beautiful work! I really like the box for your wife. I gotta make my wife something like that! Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 All well done Ross. The straps, the hummingbird inlay, the I Love Lisa, the originality and execution all rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 I really appreciate the kind words, guys! A word about the inlay - this is simply melted pewter (lead-free solder) poured into routed cavities in the wood. My scrap trial piece went very well, but the actual lid gave me fits, because I had already put a coat of DO on it, although it was very light, and cured for a week while I was out of town. The oil in the wood seems to make the molten metal bead up, rather than settle into the cavity. Also, I tried to go to fine on some of the lines, so I had to dribble the metal in, then press it down with a stick before it hardened too much. Very short window if time to do that, so prior to sanding it flush, it was a really globby mess. Wider lines / cavities, and undercutting the wood would really help.I has to replace a few spots that pulled out during initial sanding. Then I soaked the edges with CA glue before final sanding. I'm kinda scared the inlay will still come out with handling of the box, hence the desire to top coat with shellac. The effect is pretty cool, though. Even better in darker wood. Another tip - after sanding to 320, add some oil and wet sand with 400 or higher to remove all the scratch marks from the metal. In fact, I wet-sanded each coat of DO on the strapped box as well, and it came out smoooooooth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 One more brief update: Today I worked on interior linings. These were made by cutting posterboard to fit each area, then using contact cement to glue upholstery fabric to the posterboard backing. Lots of cutting to make the edges wrap neatly. Notice that I made liners for the inner sides of the pine box, as well as the top and bottom. This turned out to be an epic fail, as I did not properly account for the extra thickness of the fabric, resulting in those pieces being far to big to fit. I think I'll just leave them out, as it looks fine without. The linings will be held in place with carpet tape, so as to be somewhat removeable. Next up is to sort of 'french polish' the cherry box, and these will be ready for the Project Showcase. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted September 27, 2015 Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 Get some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Finally made it to Showcase! Jewelry / Valet boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Wonderful stuff Ross. Really nice boxes.I enjoyed the journal immensely. I'll probably be appropriating some of your ideas in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Wonderful stuff Ross. Really nice boxes.I enjoyed the journal immensely. I'll probably be appropriating some of your ideas in the future. Thanks, Dave! I was pleased with the cherry box, considering it was all resawn from a 2" x 2" table leg blank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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