JosephThomas Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 5 minutes ago, shaneymack said: Its because most people only want the lipstick and could care less about the rest. If someone is going to be in a house for 40 years and spray foam is a 10k upgrade it should be a no brainer because of how much better of a product it is. Totally agree for a house...for a shop, I think you were getting at the same point, but how many years will pole barn or similar construction last? 30 years? Makes it a tough sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Can you expand on "Ruxol"? This is not one I have heard of before. When I Google it, it looks to be a brand priding itself on sound proofing. Is there a particular product that they offer you'd recommend or have some experience with? Roxul comfortbatt is a better product than standard fibreglass. It conforms to the usual inconsistencies in 16" oc stud cavities which helps ensure max R value. It doesnt burn like fibreglass, doesnt absorb water like fibreglass and i think its mold resistent as well. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 its a mineral wool insulation. its nicer to work with, conforms better to stud walls, and is overall a better product than figerglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKeys Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I'm in Michigan so similar climate. Just built my own pole barn / shop. Also went through this whole debate. There s no doubt that the spray foam is the best but I decided I could not afford it. I put radiant heat in the floor and have 16 ft ceilings. I went with fiberglass 19 in walls 38 in ceiling. 2 ceiling fans and windows up top keep good air circulation. 2 summers and 1 winter down and I've had no issues. The high ceilings and fans keep it cool in the summer, don't need any AC. No condensation issues or problems holding heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 3 hours ago, BKeys said: I'm in Michigan so similar climate. Just built my own pole barn / shop. Also went through this whole debate. There s no doubt that the spray foam is the best but I decided I could not afford it. I put radiant heat in the floor and have 16 ft ceilings. I went with fiberglass 19 in walls 38 in ceiling. 2 ceiling fans and windows up top keep good air circulation. 2 summers and 1 winter down and I've had no issues. The high ceilings and fans keep it cool in the summer, don't need any AC. No condensation issues or problems holding heat. When you guys say radiant heat, are you using the electric or hydronic kind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKeys Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Gas boiler closed system, water/glycol mixture 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 I have the closed system as described by BKeys above in my garage but I went with a forced air furnace in the shop because as a hobbyist WW i am not out there everyday and in MN when its cold I turn the heat down to 50. When I go out to work I turn it up t 70 ish and it heats up much quicker than a radiant heat solution would. Just something to keep in mind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Thx for the info guys. No fear over leaks with a system like that? Does seem far more efficient (and therefore appealing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 No issues for me in the garage. I have to admit when I was framing in my basement I was a bit fearful of hitting a pipe but they assured me i would not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 First off congrats on building the new shop and I love watching these build threads. Second I agree with @Janello that you don't need to spray foam. On mine I bought 5'x41' rolls of R19 and hung 10' x 10' sections at a time which went fast. I put a vapor barrier on the walls. I had R44 blown into the ceiling and my found my building is well insulated. On cold winter days my heater runs around 10 mins every hour. The ceiling insulation does great keeping the heat in. It also does great keeping it cool in summer and this is without having any AC in the building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted June 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 Been a while, but progress is slow. The electric company finally got around to bringing in the new service. I got the first outlets in, and a light up. Then started adding my extra joists on the ceiling for radiant barrier and lights to hang from. Hoping to get lights up and radiant barrier started this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 Coming along! Keep your eye on the prize! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chris H Posted July 8, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Lighting, and ceiling electrical done. Just need to finish wall outlets and electrical is done. Insulation is up next. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Chris, looking great. A building like this, where the walls go up before the slab is not common in this area. At what point do you pour the slab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Congrats, it's lookin good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 You might think about adding a couple electrical outlets in the ceiling. Just in case you want to add lighting later. Nice progress tho! It's a great feeling when you're getting to that stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 On 7/7/2016 at 9:45 PM, K Cooper said: Chris, looking great. A building like this, where the walls go up before the slab is not common in this area. At what point do you pour the slab? The slab can get poured anytime now. They build it first then pour the slab for simple cost reasons. It's less concrete and you don't have to use the steel anchors to keep the building down. Apparently this way is less labor and less supplies. I really would like the floor poured before insulation goes up, but I am having a hard time finding someone to pour the floor for a reasonable cost. All the crews in the area are working larger commercials jobs (aka houses). Last quote I got was almost $5k, and 6-8 weeks of lead time. So I have been holding off hoping for someone to take it as a side job. Because it's all enclosed, they can work it in less than ideal weather. We'll see how long I can be patient though. It's the last big thing that I cannot do myself. On 7/8/2016 at 7:21 AM, TIODS said: You might think about adding a couple electrical outlets in the ceiling. Just in case you want to add lighting later. Nice progress tho! It's a great feeling when you're getting to that stage. I have a couple ceiling boxes run, but not enough to supplement lighting. They are really inteded to support any tools I end up hanging from the rafters. I only have 65W bulbs in there right now and the fixtures are approved up to 150w, so I am hoping if lighting is now what I need I'll swap them out for higher powered bulbs. Worst case, I could simply pull the recessed lighting and drop standard box in their place to run some halogen lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Chris H said: I have a couple ceiling boxes run, but not enough to supplement lighting. They are really inteded to support any tools I end up hanging from the rafters. I only have 65W bulbs in there right now and the fixtures are approved up to 150w, so I am hoping if lighting is now what I need I'll swap them out for higher powered bulbs. Worst case, I could simply pull the recessed lighting and drop standard box in their place to run some halogen lamps. Please reconsider using recessed fixtures or halogen lamps. Recessed incandescent are very inefficient & tend to have a fairly narrow distribution pattern. Halogen, or any incandescent fixtures, are horribly inefficient. Fluorescent strip fixtures that use 4' T8 lamps are cheap & efficient & will give you lots of shadow free light. You can even get fluorescent lamps with a CRI of 96. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 7 hours ago, Chris H said: I really would like the floor poured before insulation goes up, but I am having a hard time finding someone to pour the floor for a reasonable cost. All the crews in the area are working larger commercials jobs (aka houses). Last quote I got was almost $5k, and 6-8 weeks of lead time. So I have been holding off hoping for someone to take it as a side job. Because it's all enclosed, they can work it in less than ideal weather. We'll see how long I can be patient though. It's the last big thing that I cannot do myself. What is the going rate for concrete work? Im in sountheat MI and paid 2500 to have my 400sqft garage floor removed and repoured last year and felt like I got a good deal. One of my quotes was for almost 5k! I know you are just having a pour and no demo but 5k for 1000sqft doesn't seem to bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm having a drive removed and redone next week for $5.75 sq. ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Please reconsider using recessed fixtures or halogen lamps. Recessed incandescent are very inefficient & tend to have a fairly narrow distribution pattern. Halogen, or any incandescent fixtures, are horribly inefficient. Fluorescent strip fixtures that use 4' T8 lamps are cheap & efficient & will give you lots of shadow free light. You can even get fluorescent lamps with a CRI of 96. The recessed are LEDs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 1 hour ago, Chris H said: The recessed are LEDs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Good choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Any news on the floor Chris...Going to be a great shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted August 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 We have held off, though I am looking for contractors to get a few more quotes. I started insulating the walls in the mean time, but I injured my shoulder since. This has pulled me out of the shop for a couple of weeks. Hopefully we will get moving again on the floor in a month or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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