Dust Collection


..Kev

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4 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

Ya like 2 hours?

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Will be more than that..  I need to do some other stuff as well.

I'm not sure that I like the flex I'm seeing with the motor on.  It's lagged into a 2 X 6 and there's OSB sheeting on that wall as well but, the weight of the motor is causing a little flex because it's in the middle of the bay.

I'm considering pulling it down and installing a sheet of 3/4 ply on that wall to reduce that flexing.

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Will be more than that..  I need to do some other stuff as well.

I'm not sure that I like the flex I'm seeing with the motor on.  It's lagged into a 2 X 6 and there's OSB sheeting on that wall as well but, the weight of the motor is causing a little flex because it's in the middle of the bay.

I'm considering pulling it down and installing a sheet of 3/4 ply on that wall to reduce that flexing.

Or just cut out the osb there and add a piece of 2x10 solid blocking in that cavity.

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Just now, shaneymack said:

Or just cut out the osb there and add a piece of 2x10 solid blocking in that cavity.

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Thought about that to be honest but, I have a fair share of electrical in that wall so, is less risky to just beef up the wall by tying all the 2 x 6s together with 3/4 ply for additional strength.  Because I'd just mount the entire sheet, it would be a lot less work as well.

This would be easier if it were on the inside wall as I have that framed out like standard construction.  This side is just standard pole construction.

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26 minutes ago, TIODS said:

I'm not sure that I like the flex I'm seeing with the motor on.  It's lagged into a 2 X 6 and there's OSB sheeting on that wall as well but, the weight of the motor is causing a little flex because it's in the middle of the bay

I ran 2 guy wires from the outboard side to a ceiling joist.  Might be easier than wall surgery.

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Just now, Just Bob said:

I ran 2 guy wires from the outboard side to a ceiling joist.  Might be easier than wall surgery.

Yep..  I have a truss right there too..  I think the plan is to add the 3/4 ply to the wall  and tie up the mounting bracket to the truss.  

Fact is that if this thing crashes, it's going thru the hood of the wife's rig..  I'd probably never hear the end of that!

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1 hour ago, TIODS said:

Yep..  I have a truss right there too..  I think the plan is to add the 3/4 ply to the wall  and tie up the mounting bracket to the truss.  

Fact is that if this thing crashes, it's going thru the hood of the wife's rig..  I'd probably never hear the end of that!

What does it weigh, roughly?

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12 minutes ago, Chet K. said:

Is that what they call a beer break In Washington?

A little over 50 pounds..  It was supporting but, it's going to vibrate when it's running.  It was probably fine but, I'd rather spend a little time now and do it right than second guess myself later..  Got it all in, pics to follow in a bit.

13 minutes ago, Chet K. said:

Is that what they call a beer break In Washington?

No, I call them a beer break and take them often ;)

 

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2 hours ago, TIODS said:

Yep..  I have a truss right there too..  I think the plan is to add the 3/4 ply to the wall  and tie up the mounting bracket to the truss.  

Fact is that if this thing crashes, it's going thru the hood of the wife's rig..  I'd probably never hear the end of that!

This is how all the heavy exterior electric service equipment is mounted on custom homes that I sided. It works quite well. 

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Had to take some time and put the garage back together..  The old DC is hooked back up for now until the pipe arrives so I'm not completely without.

Next up will be modifying the trash can lid to accept the cyclone.

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6 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

Kev, I lag screwed 3 2x4s to my wall in the studs, then lag screwed the brackets I made. You're going to get some sag.

I added a third 2x4 after I took this pic.

88ea4c183898162ab3b715defa6c8dd6.jpg

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Yea, mine has the CV bracket for mounting so, I didn't have to build one.  What I was fighting is the pole construction of the building.  2 x 6s that run 12 feet are just going to move when you're pulling on just one of them.  That's why I added the ply and then will support the fronts of the bracket by tying them up to the rafter that just happens to be in a perfect spot.

Frankly, I'm pretty happy with only being about 1/16th off of level without the supports to the truss in place yet.

Thanks for the tip on lining up the rotation before driving those screws to the blower housing!  Helped me avoid a major set back!

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1 minute ago, Janello said:

Looks awesome bud. You could have just built an I-beam bridge for it with that big ole ac-dc welder.

There's actually 2 welders there as well as an Oxy Acetylene set..  In reality, I was a metal fabricator long before I got into my current profession or woodworking.. It's nice to have the skills when you need them!

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3 minutes ago, TIODS said:

There's actually 2 welders there as well as an Oxy Acetylene set..  In reality, I was a metal fabricator long before I got into my current profession or woodworking.. It's nice to have the skills when you need them!

Nice! I work in a tool shop for a pipe welding fabricator/installer. Fun stuff!

I was gonna suggest unistrut. I'm addicted to it. You can build anything out of that stuff!

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4 minutes ago, Janello said:

Nice! I work in a tool shop for a pipe welding fabricator/installer. Fun stuff!

I was gonna suggest unistrut. I'm addicted to it. You can build anything out of that stuff!

lol - Then you have to deal with the galvi welding tho...  Kind of ties into the current profession ;)

It's nice to have options for sure!

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2 minutes ago, TIODS said:

lol - Then you have to deal with the galvi welding tho...  Kind of ties into the current profession ;)

It's nice to have options for sure!

No...I wasn't thinking welding galv ...I am spoiled because I have all the bolt up brackets, bases, hardware at my disposal. 

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5 minutes ago, Janello said:

No...I wasn't thinking welding galv ...I am spoiled because I have all the bolt up brackets, bases, hardware at my disposal. 

Yea, most of that stuff that I deal with is galvi used by the electricians in refineries..

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Are all the blue parts metal ?  

Anytime something calls for silicone I use Lexcel caulk. Mineral spirit base and it remains flexible for decades. Sticks better than silicones and it is extremely clear, never pulls loose in long strips like silicone. It does take a couple days to dry enough to support a load but I have been using it since the late 70's. Mineral spirit clean up and no vinegar smell are big advantages in my book. My local hardware store or Lowe's carry it.

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2 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Are all the blue parts metal ?  

Anytime something calls for silicone I use Lexcel caulk. Mineral spirit base and it remains flexible for decades. Sticks better than silicones and it is extremely clear, never pulls loose in long strips like silicone. It does take a couple days to dry enough to support a load but I have been using it since the late 70's. Mineral spirit clean up and no vinegar smell are big advantages in my book. My local hardware store or Lowe's carry it.

No, the flat stuff is painted MDF but, the brackets that support it is metal.

CV recommended DAP so, that's what I used..  Hard to void the warranty when you use what they suggest ;)

 

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I understand following mfg instructions but any time you have some flexibility give the stuff a try. I glue glass into cabinet doors with it all the time. At $10 a tube it's affordable too. I have re-used a well capped tube over a month later so that adds to the economy. Paintable and it comes in clear and white.

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