LV Starter set of Hand Planes


Tom King

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2 hours ago, G S Haydon said:

Very good value, for me it would actually be cheaper to buy direct from LV and pay international shipping. On steel choice, unless you work very abrasive timber the ease of sharpening is actually very valuable. For what I like to do I'd stick with 01.

Don't do it G. Once you have paid shipping there is also dreaded import duty, By the time you've finished you end up paying more than you would if you went to Axminster. Been there done that.

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It seems like the only people who like 01 these days are the old guys, like me, who have been working wood for a long time, although Graham doesn't fit under the "old guy" handle.

Guys like Derek, who work wood that rivals Granite in Janka value like more durable steel.  I've never even had any of that stuff in my hands.

I'm an 01 guy because I like cutting edges Really sharp, and the only steels you can get sharper than 01 are even softer steels.  I have one plane with an A2 blade only because 01 was not available for that plane, and it is a little aggravating to me because it will only get almost sharp.

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9 hours ago, TerryMcK said:

Don't do it G. Once you have paid shipping there is also dreaded import duty, By the time you've finished you end up paying more than you would if you went to Axminster. Been there done that.

Ahh, swines! I was not intending to place an order but I must admit the restrictive trading is annoying!

6 minutes ago, Tom King said:

It seems like the only people who like 01 these days are the old guys, like me, who have been working wood for a long time, although Graham doesn't fit under the "old guy" handle.

Guys like Derek, who work wood that rivals Granite in Janka value like more durable steel.  I've never even had any of that stuff in my hands.

I'm an 01 guy because I like cutting edges Really sharp, and the only steels you can get sharper than 01 are even softer steels.  I have one plane with an A2 blade only because 01 was not available for that plane, and it is a little aggravating to me because it will only get almost sharp.

I'm 35 Tom, had a haircut today and there was so much grey on the floor it looked like they had trimmed a badger. I think I'm getting old quick :). 

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44 minutes ago, Tom King said:

It seems like the only people who like 01 these days are the old guys, like me, who have been working wood for a long time, although Graham doesn't fit under the "old guy" handle.

Guys like Derek, who work wood that rivals Granite in Janka value like more durable steel.  I've never even had any of that stuff in my hands.

I'm an 01 guy because I like cutting edges Really sharp, and the only steels you can get sharper than 01 are even softer steels.  I have one plane with an A2 blade only because 01 was not available for that plane, and it is a little aggravating to me because it will only get almost sharp.

I am still learning and this may explain some things to me. As I buy from the used market I have a blend of O1 and A2. This also may explain some decisions I see made about plane choice in voiceless builder videos like Doucette and Wolfe. 

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4 hours ago, Tom King said:

I've been married longer than that, and have girlfriends almost that old.

All in the same breath you say?

i've never high jacked a thread and don't intend to here, but the LV ad got me to wondering, do that many of you use a shooting board?

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I am highly considering adding this set to my wish list...but I must admit I know so little about using hand planes, I'm not even sure this is the correct set for me...

I currently have:

Stanley sweetheart block plane

Stanley sweetheart low angle block plane

Grox (I think its a no. 4?)

I have used these mostly for finessing things by hand or using the block planes to soften corners, so nothing intense yet. I could easily "hand down" the planes I have to a friend if this set is a really good starter set...can someone point me to a good youtube tutorial about how/when to use the LAJ vs the bevel up smoother? 

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8 hours ago, JosephThomas said:

I am highly considering adding this set to my wish list...but I must admit I know so little about using hand planes, I'm not even sure this is the correct set for me...

I currently have:

Stanley sweetheart block plane

Stanley sweetheart low angle block plane

Grox (I think its a no. 4?)

I have used these mostly for finessing things by hand or using the block planes to soften corners, so nothing intense yet. I could easily "hand down" the planes I have to a friend if this set is a really good starter set...can someone point me to a good youtube tutorial about how/when to use the LAJ vs the bevel up smoother? 

I agree this set sounds tempting. I have a stanley #5 from 1920s but the sole isn't square to the sides. I also have a SW LABP but my adjustment knob broke and after shipping it almost costs as much to replace the 1 part as buying a whole new plane.

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9 hours ago, JosephThomas said:

I am highly considering adding this set to my wish list...but I must admit I know so little about using hand planes, I'm not even sure this is the correct set for me...

I currently have:

Stanley sweetheart block plane

Stanley sweetheart low angle block plane

Grox (I think its a no. 4?)

I have used these mostly for finessing things by hand or using the block planes to soften corners, so nothing intense yet. I could easily "hand down" the planes I have to a friend if this set is a really good starter set...can someone point me to a good youtube tutorial about how/when to use the LAJ vs the bevel up smoother? 

i dont know of any youtube videos but I can tell you how i use them. 

The first thing that makes a smoother a smoother is a cambered blade. It is for finishing so you want to get the corners out of your work. My smoother has a slight camber and is normally set to take a very light cut with a very tight mouth. The beauty of the Bevel up smoother is you can leave the 38 deg blade in there most of the time and have the 50 deg blade for nasty grain. takes no time at all to swap from one blade to another. This plane cannot be used on the shooting board as the sides are not 90 to the sole. 

As for the LAJ, I do not use this as a smoother, I do not camber the blade. Your surface has to be much flatter to use longer plane as a smoother thats why smoothers tend to be short. You use a longer plane taking a bigger bite to flatten and then once that has taken all the high spots down youd switch to the smoother. I use the LAJ for flattening boards that are too wide for my jointer. I also use it on edges and on the shooting board. Really, I use the LAJ for mostly everything other than smoothing.  

For a hybrid woodworker,  having a LAJ a smoother and a block plane will take care of mostly ALL of your bench plane needs. After you've acquired these, time to spend money on some joinery planes :)

Hope this helps a bit, everybody has different work flows and approaches things differently but this works for me. 

EDIT: I just looked at the set of planes that Tom posted. It looks as though you can shoot with that smoother. I have this one http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=51870&cat=1,41182,48944,51870 and you cannot shoot with it. But its a smoother, I wouldnt want to shoot with it !

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When to use a smoother? When you want to clean up a project, think of it like a sander.

The low angle jack can work well as a good starter for jointing shorter work, shooting board etc. 

shaneymack makes a very fair point - " For a hybrid woodworker,  having a LAJ a smoother and a block plane will take care of mostly ALL of your bench plane needs. After you've acquired these, time to spend money on some joinery planes"

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