Upgrading my Router Table and Router


sjm1580

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57 minutes ago, Chet K said:

You can always upgrade this at a latter date if you choose.  worst thing would be the possibility of having to change the mounting blocks in the lift. 

I hate buying things twice, but after a long conversation with the Incra representative, I am hoping that the router will exceed my long term needs.  Per your input, I passed on the stand an will start building the cabinet when the top gets here.  Luckily the top will be here long before the fence so I will have ample time to building the cabinet.

Thanks!

1 hour ago, Chet K said:

You can always upgrade this at a latter date if you choose.  worst thing would be the possibility of having to change the mounting blocks in the lift. 

I hate buying things twice, but after a long conversation with the Incra representative, I am hoping that the router will exceed my long term needs.  Per your input, I passed on the stand an will start building the cabinet when the top gets here.  Luckily the top will be here long before the fence so I will have ample time to building the cabinet.

Thanks!

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22 minutes ago, sjm1580 said:

Do you think the 892 will be adequate for hobbyist use?

I have run the same Milwaukee 5625 since forever so my normal router table experience is using a locomotive to spin the bit.  Dad has run a 2-1/4 HP Triton without the lift for many years and it has done well for him.  He rarely spins a bit over an inch in diameter whereas I do whatever I want.

I would not fear limitations with the smaller router but, it will work harder at the same task.  Only the quantity of your work and your methods may make that an issue.  For my "enthusiastic" one man shop I would feel confident that a 2+ HP motor would do the job.  It just wasn't that much more to get The Beast at the time so I went that way.RT-DRO(9).jpg

Side note in case you notice it in the pic . . . Although I would be hard pressed to give up my digital readout on the tablesaw and the planer, I found the DRO for the router table to be of zero actual use.  I really wanted it to be helpful . . . could just be me.

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If you are not planning on running large diameter bits on a regular basis you will be fine. If you run big bits just slow them down and don't take too much off in one pass. If it's a single speed router you will face more issues. Burning, chipping out and bogging down come to mind.

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2 hours ago, gee-dub said:

I have run the same Milwaukee 5625 since forever so my normal router table experience is using a locomotive to spin the bit.  Dad has run a 2-1/4 HP Triton without the lift for many years and it has done well for him.  He rarely spins a bit over an inch in diameter whereas I do whatever I want.

I would not fear limitations with the smaller router but, it will work harder at the same task.  Only the quantity of your work and your methods may make that an issue.  For my "enthusiastic" one man shop I would feel confident that a 2+ HP motor would do the job.  It just wasn't that much more to get The Beast at the time so I went that way.RT-DRO(9).jpg

Side note in case you notice it in the pic . . . Although I would be hard pressed to give up my digital readout on the tablesaw and the planer, I found the DRO for the router table to be of zero actual use.  I really wanted it to be helpful . . . could just be me.

Kind of like running heavy equipment, if you have smaller machine, just slow down a bit and still get the job done.

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

If you are not planning on running large diameter bits on a regular basis you will be fine. If you run big bits just slow them down and don't take too much off in one pass. If it's a single speed router you will face more issues. Burning, chipping out and bogging down come to mind.

Kind of like running heavy equipment, if you have smaller machine, just slow down a bit and still get the job done.

Thanks!

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/10/2017 at 3:09 PM, Chet K said:

Aluminum is a soft metal and I would be concerned about getting an accidental gouge in it and having is scratch your work as you slide it across.  Having said that I don't have any actual experience wit this table, But the aluminum top would have me hesitant.  If you want something of this nature you might look at General Internationals cast iron router tables.

Just an update.  It seems that General International has also gone out of business.  But Woodworker's Supply sells a router table. And lift which appear to be identical to the well reviewed units formerly sold by General I.

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