Popular Post prov163 Posted July 15, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Got my Auriou cabinetmaker's rasp today. Delivered at work so I found a reason to go home early so I could try it out. Took me about 3 minutes to put this bullnose on a piece of scrap. Really well made tool. Feels great in my hand. Left a pretty nice finish. Wouldn't take long to clean it up with some sandpaper or card scraper (if I can ever figure out how to sharpen the damn thing). I kept the gullets/teeth clean with a brass brush. Haven't tried the half round side yet but I'm sure it's going to be equally great. Thanks for all your advice from an earlier post! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Thats great ! Which size/grain did you end up getting? Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I got the 10" 9 grain, Shaney. It was the most votes and reviews from the forum members. Just from my initial test run I can see it's going to be a nice addition to my arsenal of wood butchering tools 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Careful with the brass brush. I used one for a while and I never noticed any problems, but I read somewhere that, despite brass being softer than the tool steel, it can still damage the teeth on the rasp. Lie-Nielsen used to sell a little natural-bristled brush for like five bucks and I've been using it ever since. I looked for a link but couldn't find it. Just be aware, do your own research. While allegedly rasps can be sharpened using some process with some kind of acidic formula...I'm not holding my breath on that. They're too nice and too expensive to shorten their lives unnecessarily. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 A toothbrush would be way more better than brass. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Prov163 Congrats on the new rasp! I began using mine about a week ago on some sculpted bar stools and I am amazed how well they work. Regarding cleaning here is a link to a brush as well as some info on cleaning form Toolsforwoodworking.com. I have purchased from them many times and have always found their advise spot on. https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TRR/item/MS-RBRUSH 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 7 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Prov163 Congrats on the new rasp! I began using mine about a week ago on some sculpted bar stools and I am amazed how well they work. Regarding cleaning here is a link to a brush as well as some info on cleaning form Toolsforwoodworking.com. I have purchased from them many times and have always found their advise spot on. https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TRR/item/MS-RBRUSH That's the one I have. Maybe I bought it from them or Craftsman Studio and not LN. I couldn't remember...but that's the one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 A boot cleaning brush also works very well for cleaning out the teeth. I think I picked one up for a few bucks. Seemed smarter than tempting with metal on metal no matter the hardness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Chet sent me a message about the brass brush as well and said Auriou recommends a stiff bristle toothbrush. I'll look at pkinneb's suggestion too. Don't want to damage my new rasp as I had to wait a while for stock to come in. Time to add some curved shapes to my work - intentionally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Does anybody know do the sellers of Auriou rasps add the handles? Curious because the ones I purchased from Toolsforwoodworking.com have different handles then the ones from Lie Nielsen. I prefer the longer handles on the LN and its really causing my OCD to flair up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 If you have a lathe, it's nothing to turn your own. Then you have a perfectly matched set, in exactly the lengths you want, at a fraction of the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Marmotjr said: If you have a lathe, it's nothing to turn your own. Then you have a perfectly matched set, in exactly the lengths you want, at a fraction of the price. Thanks that's a great idea!! lol I can't believe I didn't think of that...another (probably dumb question) question how does one get the the handles off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 The picture alone bothers me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 36 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Thanks that's a great idea!! lol I can't believe I didn't think of that...another (probably dumb question) question how does one get the the handles off? I wonder if you couldn't contact Lie Nielsen. Let them know that you want to make a different style handle for your's and how would you go about removing the old handle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 I've never removed a handle before, with the intention of saving the brass ring, I usually replaced them, but then I had reason to, they were corroded and ugly. I'd try a pair of soft grip pliers, or channel locks with padding on the teeth. They should just be friction fit onto the ends. They usually pinch down the opening of the handle, holding the file. (I'm drawing a blank on the terms here). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 hour ago, pkinneb said: how does one get the the handles off? Maybe not the "correct" way, but I would...Wrap a shop towel around the business end of the rasp. Grip the rasp in my vise with the handle pointing towards the floor. Clamp a very loosely adjusted vise grip or "channel lock" pliers just above the brass ring and tap, tap, tap. I would cover the plier jaws with a generous wrapping of duct tape so it doesn't mar the finish on the rasp. Alternatively, to bang off the handle, you could use any tool which has a U shaped opening and fits, like an open-end wrench or whatnot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 12 hours ago, pkinneb said: Thanks that's a great idea!! lol I can't believe I didn't think of that...another (probably dumb question) question how does one get the the handles off? Or you can order just the handles from LN: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4156/file-rasp-handles 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted July 29, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 On 7/16/2017 at 9:53 PM, Chet said: I wonder if you couldn't contact Lie Nielsen. Let them know that you want to make a different style handle for your's and how would you go about removing the old handle. Thanks Chet I took your advise here is the response: Good afternoon, Paul. Thank you for your email. There are several ways to approach removing the rasp handles. The handles are attached by heating the end and then sliding it into the handle, searing the wood and creating a tight friction fit. You are essentially looking to break this friction hold, there is no adhesive or epoxy. If you want to try to save the current handles, you can wrap the rasp in cloth to protect the stitching, and clamp it in a vise horizontally, so that the handle is sticking out the left side of the vise, the whole rasp situated towards the top of the vise jaw so you have access to the handle. You can try to wiggle the handle first to see if you can loosen it with hand pressure. If hand pressure will not move the handle, create a wedge using a scrap of hardwood about the size of a door stop and place the narrow end against the small section of wood exposed on the top of the handle where the rasp is attached. With the wedge against the handle and the rasp clamped securely in a vise, gently strike the back of the wedge with a mallet or hammer. You may wish to rotate the rasp so that you are striking on alternating sides of the handle to prevent bending or breaking the bottom of the rasp. Adjust the pressure of your mallet blows accordingly, and you should be able to knock the handle loose. If you are not looking to save the handles, you could wrap the rasp in a cloth to protect the stitching, and clamp it rasp side down with the handle sticking up, and strike the end of the handle with a chisel to split it. The ferrule may hold the far end together, but once it splits, you should be able to separate the pieces and remove the handle. I hope this information helps. The main concern is keeping the stitching protected, and being careful not to bend or break the rasp, especially if striking the handle with a mallet. Please let us know if we can help with any further requests. Thank you again for your support. Kind regards, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Marmotjr Posted July 29, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Kudos to a company that has instructions on hand on how to destroy their product. And not get uppity about it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Gilgaron Posted July 31, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Ha, now I'm imagining passive-aggressive instructions. "Should one wish to destroy the hand-made and hand-set handle, made of genuine valuable hardwood and solid brass ferrule, the foolishness could be minimized were on to proceed as so..." 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 One thought, if it came from www.toolsforworkingwood.com, that is probably Gramercy rasps rather than Auriou. The handle on yours looks the same as the 3 Gramercy rasps I have purchased. Still a great rasp though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 13 minutes ago, mikem said: One thought, if it came from www.toolsforworkingwood.com, that is probably Gramercy rasps rather than Auriou. The handle on yours looks the same as the 3 Gramercy rasps I have purchased. Still a great rasp though! They actually sell both and handle them all thus the reason for the same handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Marmotjr Posted July 31, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 4 hours ago, Gilgaron said: Ha, now I'm imagining passive-aggressive instructions. "Should one wish to destroy the hand-made and hand-set handle, made of genuine valuable hardwood and solid brass ferrule, the foolishness could be minimized were on to proceed as so..." Now to completely derail the thread... I used to own a Yakima roof box for my car (sold it off when I got a car without a roof rack option, wish I had kept it). On one 2 week camping trip, the lock on one side of the box failed closed, couldn't open it. Not a big deal, just slid the box over to the other side. On the very last day, as we finished packing up, the other lock failed (The box would hinge open from either side, very cool design). So now most of our gear is locked in the box, but that was ok as we were on our way home. Called up yakima and they wanted me to send them the box back (they'd cover the shipping). When I was finally able to explain that I couldn't remove the box without destroying it, they already has instructions on hand on how to drill out the locks and destroy the box, as long as I sent them pics of the serial number, they'd send me one for free under warranty. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tom King Posted July 31, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Speaking of destroying the product, one of our commercial sewing machines is a Singer from WWII. It was orginally designed for sewing tents REALLY FAST!!! We bought it from an auction of a company going out of business that had a government contract for making cargo parachutes. This machine now had a way oversized handwheel/pulley on it, and they used it for sewing through many layers of thick webbing for the parachutes. I ordered a manual for it, off ebay if I'm remembering correctly. It originally had a very small pulley on the end of the machine so that it sewed REALLY FAST. The parachute company had changed the pulley out so that it was now geared way down, sewed slow enough for mortal use, and would sew through almost anything. Anyway, reading through the manual, towards the back was a section on how to sabotage it if you were getting overrun by the enemy, or making a fast retreat, so that the enemy couldn't use the sewing machine. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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