Amish table


Bthunter101

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 Picked up this table, 6 chairs and 24" leaf for $75...but it needed some refinishing. We decided to go darker to match our dining room. I sanded the old finish till everything was back to bare wood..sanded till ultra smooth. Applied the stain with a foam brush.  Maybe I should have used a rag? But either way...i have lost the wood grain look that we loved about the table. I used a fined scotch brite pad after sanding and here is where I am. Pics are from start to current. Thoughts?20170730_190843.thumb.jpg.30a327a9c2a8ba8ced977e75feb4faed.jpg

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Welcome to the forum @Bthunter101, i haven't done a lot of refinishing but it looks to me like you didn't sand completely down to bare wood as there seems to be some traces of the old finish still visible, the second thing is i think you sanded to a too fine of grit and its not allowing the stain to penetrate and is just more or less sitting on the top. i would be careful with your second attempt on sanding (if there is one ) as the top could be veneer and you could sand right thru it and that would be bad. glad to have you here and i'm sure others with more experience will check in.

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I think wdwerker is right, for a couple of reasons.

 

First, the top may be veneered, and sanding could go through to the substrate.

 

Second, that grain has the appearance of deep red oak pores. By sanding, rather than stripping, you have effectively leveled those pores, with the old finish acting as a filler. This removes the physical texture of the grain.

 

 

The stain you applied looks very opaque, can you share what type & brand it is? Perhaps it is not the correct product for what you want to do.

 

EDIT: After looking more closely, I am certain the top is veneered. The outer edge of each pie-shaped piece is very wide to be a single board, and the pointy peaks of the cathedral grain pattern suggest a rotary cut veneer, rather than flat sawn boards. The rotarycut veneer yields wider pieces, also.

 

This doesn't mean the substrate of the top is plywood or particleboard. It may still be a panel of solid boards, with the veneer applied for decorative purposes. You still don't want to sand through it.

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The table is solid oak...i honestly think I sanded the finish too smooth...the stain sat on top

 

 

 

 

That is possible. What grit did you go up to?

 

 

I'm not very familiar with Rustoleum stains,but the color looks very much like Minwax mahogany stain. That stuff has a slightly different formulation that most of the other Minwax stains, it goes on very dark, and takes forever to dry. I always assumed some characteristic of the pigment required a different formula for the carrier.

 

 

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General finish makes the best stain.Try some on your next project if you like messing with stains.

For the table your posted its too late.The cells of the wood are closed out filled with dust and old finish and new finish.

A glaze coat like your using is your best bet.

Of course this just my opinion from what I remember 

Aj

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Unfortunately, AJ has a point. It will be very difficult to completely remove all the old finish, and restore the true appearance of the wood beneath. You might try a mild chemical stripper and a lot of patience. A stiff nylon bristle, or even brass bristle, brush can help work the old finish out of the grain pores.

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Was that a gel stain?  It looks like my first experiment with gel stain, anyhow... it'll end up like paint if you follow the directions but if you ignore them and wipe on and wipe off excess immediately it'll behave ok.  For removing the old stuff, agreed that the top is definitely veneered.  I have read on Bob Flexner's blog that the "green" strippers will work very well and gently if you ignore the instructions and let them sit for much longer than indicated on the package.  http://w.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/505082-patience-is-key-with-green-paint-strippers He does warn, however, that it could lift veneer if left too long so it won't be a fool proof solution. 

 

Edited to add:  if you have an Amish furniture store nearby, they will sell their stains in cans if you want to keep it 'authentic' even while going darker. 

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Get a good chemical stripper and start over, thats a fact. To me, that looks like a toned topcoat and not a "stain" manufactures can call it anything they wish, but that's no stain in a tradition sense. Toned topcoats do exactly that and block out the wood grain. 

If you want to see grain, use a good stain from General Finishes and not that crap. 

-Ace-

  

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So according to the Amish man I spoke with...the stain never penetrated and my next best solution was to gently sand it off with a fine stripping pad. Here is what I got by doing that...i actually like the look. He also said to restain with a minwax stain not the rustolium. Thin coats only. Live and learn.

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Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, :wacko: it's blotchy and if you don't get the original finish out of the wood you'll be starting over again. This is a chemical strip job. End of story. Take your time with it, steam out your dents and do it correctly. You'll be glad you did. Thats a nice old table, built to last. 

 

-Ace-

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What does the underside of the table look like ? If it's really solid wood the same pattern would show on both sides. If it does you might be able to clean up the underside and practice your finishing techniques before you do the top.

It looks like you got it cleaned up quite well. Please keep sharing your progress with us.

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Your getting there, you need to work one portion of the table at a time. I think your jumping around too much. Work the wood while it's sill wet. When you remove one layer. Go back over the same area with stripper and keep working.  Sometimes it can take 3 applications. Get coarse steel  wool and rubber gloves and scrub with the grain and get those table edges clean. You're doing good ;) nobody said it would be easy. You're done when it looks like fresh wood.

Once the stripping is over, wash the wood with mineral spirits and give the table a good week to dry. Then a good sanding with the grain.

 

-Ace-

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