Cygnus A Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 This is a face frame i made using the Festool Domino. I guess I didnt have enough glue in the joint so there is some separation happening. The frame is going to be painted, so I need some ideas on how to fill and bond this location. I tried spackling and drywall mud, but they both just split again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Timbermate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted September 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 2 minutes ago, Eric. said: Timbermate. I have some DAP Plastic wood acetone based wood filler. Will that work? Should i groove out the joint to give it more area to bond to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 3 minutes ago, Cygnus A said: DAP Plastic wood I prefer the timbermate. I like the way it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Slight undercut might help, but very slight. The stuff you've got should work if it's not dried up & too stiff. Let it dry till the smell is completely gone before sanding. Fingernail polish remover won't work to thin it but will clean your fingers afterward. Pure acetone can thin it but use very sparingly. Next time buy Timbermate. It smells funny but it works great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 No joke, it smells awful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Just now, bleedinblue said: No joke, it smells awful. Yea , and the damn smell lingers quite a while too ! But it dries quickly and works very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Timbermate wood filler will fill in the gap but it will not provide any bonding for the loose joint. If your piece moves again the gap will return. If you can spread the joint enough to add epoxy, sand then you may need to apply the Timbermate. The epoxy will provide some level of bonding, depending how far into the joint you can get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Drilll a hole & inject some glue if the joint is loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Kill 2 birds with one stone. Work some glue in the joint, clamp sprinkle some saw dust over it and sand the joint smooth. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 I would add a trim head screw on one side top or bottom. Opposite side in one of the corners to draw the joint closed. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coop Posted September 14, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 I'm amazed at how many of you had answers to this. I thought there wouldn't be anyone that would admit to having joints with gaps. I feel much better now! 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted September 14, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 A great part of mastering this craft is knowing how to repair & conceal mistakes. Stuff still happens, but at least we share solutions to problems here. Used to be jealously guarded secrets were doled out slowly over a long apprenticeship. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 I can't think of a project that I haven't made a mistake that I had to come up with methods to fix or conceal. Usually I am the only one that will ever know the mistake. If it can't be concealed or fixed it gets remade! The beauty of wood! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Ok. Need more ideas. I used wood filler and glue as best I could. Everything looked great. I primed sanded and sprayed 4 coats of paint, lightly sanding between. After moving the unit from the garage to the office where it will live, the joints showed splitting again. This was really a punch in the gut as I had spent a ton of time making sure the finish was near perfect. What can I do at this point? I was thinking about cutting a vgroove at these joints as a "feature". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Use a clamp backwards to force the joint open enough so you can really get enough glue in there. If the crack exists after regluing and reclamping I would wait 24 hrs or more then undercut the joint like a micro sliding dovetail joint and pack that with the filler. Let the filler dry a good long time before sanding. Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Spackle. Then a little paint touch-up. I just did the casework in my basement and spackle was great for filling tiny gaps in a couple miters. I wouldn't put a groove in those joints. That will just draw the eye right to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 If you are getting these cracks by moving the piece it seems like you may have a larger issue. Why is it flexing/moving so much? Is there a large span or are all of the joints just starved for glue? Can you post a pic of the entire piece? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 2 hours ago, Alan G said: If you are getting these cracks by moving the piece it seems like you may have a larger issue. Why is it flexing/moving so much? Is there a large span or are all of the joints just starved for glue? Can you post a pic of the entire piece? I'm pretty sure the joints are starved for glue. This is just a face frame, so I didn't think much of it at the time. I just don't know how to fix it at this point. I built this in 4 sections and screwed them together this at least 20 screws around each joint. It won't move once it is in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Did you try some spackle and paint? You're not gonna be able to force that joint back together at this point. You're in cover-up mode now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 You could try Bondo. It doesn't shrink at all, is very hard when cured, & sticks like a booger to a finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Could also pocket hole it from the back.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnus A Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 6 hours ago, Eric. said: Did you try some spackle and paint? You're not gonna be able to force that joint back together at this point. You're in cover-up mode now. Not yet. Is there a particular spackle I should use? I thought I read somewhere about a particular brand that is good for wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 17 minutes ago, Cygnus A said: Not yet. Is there a particular spackle I should use? I thought I read somewhere about a particular brand that is good for wood. I used this stuff on my casing. I wouldn't use it on big gaps but just to conceal tiny ones it did the trick. I wouldn't use it until your cabinets are screwed into place and locked down. Bondo might be a better option but I've never used that stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 I have used bondo on various projects. I had always used the two part product. It was fine and when you need a lot it's the way to go. What I have found is that for small filling on paintgrade stuff using the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty is better. Its premixed so I just squirt out a small amount and get to work. You can get it on Amazon for a premium but you can probably find it at most auto parts stores. Bondo in general is great stuff. A bit stinky and sometimes that red color is hard to cover but it is a great filler. However, until you get the root problem fixed with that frame anytime you move it your joints are going to crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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