Morris Chair


bleedinblue

Recommended Posts

No pictures, but I got the tenons dressed this evening and a dry fit of the back done (sans curves). The back fits perfectly between the arms...probably 1/16th of wiggle room on each side.

With the back held in place you get a better sense of the size of this chair.  It is...significant.

I'm really looking forward to getting the curves laid out and cut...almost to the end of this journey.

I'm ready to get this thing out of my shop! 

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, bleedinblue said:

No pictures, but I got the tenons dressed this evening and a dry fit of the back done (sans curves). The back fits perfectly between the arms...probably 1/16th of wiggle room on each side.

With the back held in place you get a better sense of the size of this chair.  It is...significant.

I'm really looking forward to getting the curves laid out and cut...almost to the end of this journey.

I'm ready to get this thing out of my shop! 

They grow up so fast.

I have one of mine loaded in my car with my leather and off to the upholster tomorrow. Your on track to beat me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I drilled the holes in the arms today.  One of the most stressful parts of the the build I think.  In my shop "tour" thread, I mention that I don't care that I have a crappy drill press.  Today I was wishing for a real drill press.  Got it done though, with a bit of a shady setup with a roller stand, moving the table out of the way, and using a couple scrap boards to get the arm to the right height.

20180527_124847.jpg

 

No other pictures, but since the last update I got the back slats shaped and cleaned up to 180 grit.  Cutting from 8/4 was definitely the way to go for me...cut at the bandsaw, refined at the stationary sander and some quality time with flexible sanding strips.  It really wasn't bad at all. 

I got the corbels made the other day.  Making such narrow pieces at the router table with a template and flush trim bit was no bueno.  Too much pucker factor going on, so I just rough cut and sanded to final shape.  Easy peasy that way.

Today I drilled these holes, plus the holes in the legs, and got one of the two tapers cut and cleaned up on each of the legs (chair and stool). 

I need to figure out what to do with the pivot pins.  I bought walnut dowel stock and might have to just do plain pins.  I bought 1" and 5/8" dowel rods...I've got a couple ideas for something cooler, but I'm not sure if it'll work or not.

This thing is VERY close to finish prep, which means I need to decide on a finish.  Garnet shellac, Enduro-Var, and lacquer are all front runners.  Probably leaning more toward the shellac and/or EV at this point, mainly because of the Missouri heat and humidity.  I made a thread earlier on this topic.

20180527_124835.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/27/2018 at 2:20 PM, bleedinblue said:

I got the corbels made the other day.  Making such narrow pieces at the router table with a template and flush trim bit was no bueno.  Too much pucker factor going on, so I just rough cut and sanded to final shape.  Easy peasy that way.

If a guy was smart he'd have shaped the corbel on a large piece and then ripped the corbel off.

I'm not a smart guy i did it the same way as you. it was nice to get the by hand practice.

On 5/27/2018 at 2:20 PM, bleedinblue said:

This thing is VERY close to finish prep, which means I need to decide on a finish.  Garnet shellac, Enduro-Var, and lacquer are all front runners.  Probably leaning more toward the shellac and/or EV at this point, mainly because of the Missouri heat and humidity.  I made a thread earlier on this topic.

Wait until you get you chair upholstered until you put on the final coat of finish. despite warping min in a blanket and taking the best care i could i still scratched the finish once and I'm sure the guy doing the upholstery will do the same.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stool leg tops are pillowed.  Pivot pins are done.  Leg bottoms are even chamfered.  Time for some finish prep. 

I did spend about five minutes tonight, tho I was distracted, hitting the side rails of the stool with the smoother.  If it was any indication on how this is going to go I'm going to be spending a lot of time with my sander.  Tear out city.  My iron is sharp, my passes were light, but my results were unacceptable.  I still don't have any #4 skills.  Ugh. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Chet said:

Did you try going the opposite direction,  might have been going the wrong way on the grain.

Yup, flipped it, similar results.  Hopefully it was just that particular piece...it had some of the quarter sawn speckling figure that you usually see on maple/cherry... I don't remember what Eric called that. 

By and large, this chair is very straight grained.  Probably not to Trip's standards, but I think I came close to the idea.  Hopefully the other pieces plane more agreeably. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first disaster level mistake, and I don't think there's a fix.  While doing the round overs on the arms, the bit bearing dropped into one of the arm holes, so of course the bit dug into the arm.  Crap.  It is on the underside, that's the only positive I can see. 

20180606_183855.jpg

20180606_183909.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, bleedinblue said:

Slow going, even though I was off work the last three days I haven't had much shop time.  Here's the stack though...most parts have been hit with the smoother, the chair legs weren't though, I couldn't keep the tear out under control so they'll be taken care of with the ROS.  Round overs are done though.  Even the parts that were planed need some high grit ROS love to remove track marks, but I'm probably about an hours worth of work away from glue up. 

The stack of parts doesn't look like much! 

20180606_144053.jpg

My lord Blue,how do you know what goes where, Dewey Decimal System? Even the dry fit is going to be bitchin. Good luck bud! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Oh no!

What radius round over is that. Seems mighty heavy.

Just 1/4".  The photo, and the portion of the arms there with the holes, seem to exaggerate it.  Looking at the pieces at scale I'm pretty happy with it.  The error...well, it sucks.  Nothing I can do though, too late to re-make the arm, if I keep the chair reclined fair enough it won't be seen, lol.  Damnit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, bleedinblue said:

Slow going, even though I was off work the last three days I haven't had much shop time.  Here's the stack though...most parts have been hit with the smoother, the chair legs weren't though, I couldn't keep the tear out under control so they'll be taken care of with the ROS.  Round overs are done though.  Even the parts that were planed need some high grit ROS love to remove track marks, but I'm probably about an hours worth of work away from glue up. 

The stack of parts doesn't look like much! 

20180606_144053.jpg

Do you not use card scrapers Blue? When I have trouble with tear out when trying to smooth, a few blasts with a scraper and a quick hit with 220 grit is all it takes to remove mill marks and get smooth. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, woodbutcher said:

Do you not use card scrapers Blue? When I have trouble with tear out when trying to smooth, a few blasts with a scraper and a quick hit with 220 grit is all it takes to remove mill marks and get smooth. 

I've got card scrapers but haven't got good enough results to work em into my work flow.  Both scrapers I have seem very thick, so they're uncomfortable to hold bent for extended periods of time, so I end up just not using them.  I know I need to work them in, my work would benefit. 

2 minutes ago, Chet said:

What if you square up the boo-boo with a chisel then glue a piece in, flush it up and match the sound over using sand paper.

I thought about that, but I couldn't shake the gut feeling that my repair would look worse than the divot.  If I can work up the nerve to try it, I will, but I'm not sure I can. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, bleedinblue said:

I've got card scrapers but haven't got good enough results to work em into my work flow.  Both scrapers I have seem very thick, so they're uncomfortable to hold bent for extended periods of time, so I end up just not using them.  I know I need to work them in, my work would benefit. 

I thought about that, but I couldn't shake the gut feeling that my repair would look worse than the divot.  If I can work up the nerve to try it, I will, but I'm not sure I can. 

I'd work on your card scrapers they are one of the more useful hand tools in the shop. Maybe i'm doing it wrong but you don't have to bend them all that much or at all. I think people like the thicker ones because they don't heat up as fast and can be a bit easier to make a good bur with. I have the cheap crown scrapers from amazon and they seem to work great for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Chet said:

What if you square up the boo-boo with a chisel then glue a piece in, flush it up and match the sound over using sand paper.

Thinking about it more, the biggest apprehension I have is that the bit cut into the side of the hole.  If I patch it, it seems to me like it will be very difficult to clean the hole back up.  That might come down to some sandpaper on a dowel or something, but it seems like another path toward a mistake as it would be easy to mangle the edge of the hole.

1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I'd work on your card scrapers they are one of the more useful hand tools in the shop. Maybe i'm doing it wrong but you don't have to bend them all that much or at all. I think people like the thicker ones because they don't heat up as fast and can be a bit easier to make a good bur with. I have the cheap crown scrapers from amazon and they seem to work great for me.

Yeah, I've been telling myself for some time that I need to get the feel for them and use them.  I even bought one of the Veritas variable burnishers, so sharpening them isn't even the issue.  I'll probably do what I always do...throw money at it, and pick up the Veritas scraper holder thingy and a #80.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 42 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422.1k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,782
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    Skillfusian
    Newest Member
    Skillfusian
    Joined