Popular Post bleedinblue Posted April 6, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 6, 2018 My wife left me at home this afternoon with our two year old so she could go for her bi-weekly two hour long massage. So, I treated myself to six dubuque 36" long clamps. I don't think she realizes how many tools these massages cost her. 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 I finally got a full afternoon in the shop today. I had previously milled the side slats, but they came out too thin so I had to re-make them. Overall it was a smooth process, though a bit tedious, to get them set into place and the spacers cut and fitted. Now the sides are really starting to look like something. When searching for stock to cut the slats from, I found the perfect piece of 6/4 for the back rails....next up I'll be able to put the base aside and make the back. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 4/5/2018 at 2:22 PM, bleedinblue said: I cut the curve into the top and bottom side rails today, then got the grooves cut into them for the slats. Pretty straight forward and no major problems to speak of. These curves were my maiden voyage with a spoke shave, it was pretty decent to use. I wish it had an adjustable mouth and a different blade adjustment mechanism though...turning two screws to advance/retract the blade is a pain. It's time to start thinking about a clamping strategy for the glue up. My parallel clamps are all either 50" or 24", so not much help there. I have a lot of long pipe clamps, but no. My good f-style clamps are all too short, and the few long ones I have are junk. I think I need the Dubuque 36" clamps to be back in stock (and for my wife to not be home to catch the package) I'm with ya Blue, those Dubuque clamps are excellent. I've 4 36". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Looks like you having to back track on the slates came out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 I'm looking forward to cleaning all of the surfaces up. All but the center slats were hit with my smoother before installation and the color difference from the other parts, that haven't been surfaced after the drum sander, is pretty striking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Almost time for some pretty critical pattern routing. I picked this guy up. It's no big daddy, but it's still considerably beefy... Hopefully it leaves the tear-out free, super smooth surface it is said to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Are ya skired? I know I’d be puckering right about now. No pressure! Good luck Blue, you’ve got it under control. You’re right about the bit, one mean looking mofo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Ha...it should be amongst the most uneventful operations in the build. *famous last words* Just gotta keep the router speed low, and it's already set low after using the scarier slot cutting bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Narrow bit like that you usually want higher speed. Do a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 I would play with that bit on some scrap. Medium to high speed but not Max speed ! Try doing some template routing on curves, if it feels grabby or tears out then climb cutting may be the cure. Read up on climb cutting before you try it. It's quite effective but does carry some risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 If you are pattern routing on a router table use the pivot pin to start the cut. That bit will buck hard when you start the cut. The pin makes the entry cut real smooth, no grabbing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 +1 on using the starter or pivot pin. I used mine today while routing a bead on both edges of the arches for my bookcase project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Not using a pivot pin bites me every once in a while for sure...even recently when cutting the slots in the side rails of this chair. I was using a pin, but must not have applied enough pressure and it bounced around a bit starting a couple of the cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 When using the starting pin I always add 1"- 2" at both ends of the template and the blank to be routed if possible . Sometimes using a push block like the Grrripper gives better control and safety. Double check which face of the template and which face of the board needs to face up. It's easy to get the ugly side facing up when your done. Label both sides of the template especially if you need a Left & Right part. I try to saw about 1/8 to 3/16 outside the line before template routing. Bandsaw or jigsaw must be cutting at 90 degrees ! Even a slightly crooked table or bent blade can ruin your day. Is that a Whiteside bit ? Which model ? Let us know how it behaves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 It is a Whiteside. Good idea leaving extra stock, I can do that easily with the back side rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post bleedinblue Posted April 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Not much done in the past couple of weeks. I got the inserts all done in the sides, they were more of a pain in the butt than they should have been. I took Marc's warning not to use too much glue too seriously, and while routing some of them flush a few popped out...so I had to re-glue them, then wait, then come back to the router table, then found another one or two that were loose, etc. Over the past few days I made the template for the back sides, milled the stock and got them flush cut. The new router bit worked very well, even flushing up the 1 1/8" stock. It gave a nice, smooth, tearout free finish. Of course this operation doesn't lie, so a few bumps that were missed on the template got transferred to the work piece and are very obvious. That's not the bit's fault though obviously, and it'll be an easy fix. Today I was going to route the mortises and realized I need an adapter to use guide bushings with the router/plunge base I want to use. Now I gotta wait on the Amazon fairy. I'm to the point in this project where I want this danged thing out of my shop and when I look at it I see nothing but junk. I threw the base together for a sanity/morale boost. It was nice to see a glimpse of what it will look like. It needs a lot of cleanup work, a couple of the shoulders need some love as they're not seating as well as they should, but after I got the clamps on it wasn't as bad as I expected. I'm itching to get to finish prep, I want to get a smoother on these pieces to get a better sense of the grain and color. Getting closer. Crappy, ill lighted pics... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Coming along little by little. From here the arms look like they came out well considering the battles you had with the template. It is starting to look like a chair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Your at the point where things start moving fast. Soon you'll be applying finish. Start researching upholstry sooner rather than later. I'm still waiting on suplied and what not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I’ve been wanting to make one of these for a couple of years. Looking darn good Blue! Speaking of finish, what are your plans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 On 4/29/2018 at 5:36 PM, Chestnut said: Your at the point where things start moving fast. Soon you'll be applying finish. Start researching upholstry sooner rather than later. I'm still waiting on suplied and what not. Yeah, the only reason I haven't started yet was I was worried the measurements wouldn't be exact to plans. It's time to start shopping for someone who can do the work though. 1 hour ago, K Cooper said: I’ve been wanting to make one of these for a couple of years. Looking darn good Blue! Speaking of finish, what are your plans? Good question. Initially I figured the usual ARS, but the past couple of days I've been checking for a 15% off sale from Acme for a Fuji. Sooooo...probably ARS, with a lot of pre-finishing, or maybe I'll dive into spray lacquer. I'm going to poke around for some other SIMPLE options though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 If you’re going the Fuji route, check with Chet. He and I forget who else, influenced me into one for spraying shellac. Definitely takes some practice but we’ll worth the investment, my opinion, not my wife’s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 7 minutes ago, K Cooper said: If you’re going the Fuji route, check with Chet. He and I forget who else, influenced me into one for spraying shellac. Definitely takes some practice but we’ll worth the investment, my opinion, not my wife’s It's gonna happen. Just not sure if it will happen by the time I'm ready to "finish" this chair or not. My gut tells me to wait for an Acme sale, but I'm also watching Ebay and Amazon warehouse, too. I'm pretty sure I want four stage so I can spray paint when needed. I've never touched shellac. I need to play with it some for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 The cherry is going to darken nicely over time. So having said that if the chair were mine and its not but if it were, I would stick it in the sun for a day or two to speed up the process. Then I would spray it with General Finishes Enduro-Var which has a little amber to it and it is a water borne finish so it is safe to sprain your basement or garage. I think it is pretty close to the protection you would get from laquar. I used to use GF's High Performance but I tried some Enduro-Var recently and I think it has a better look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Halogen floodlights with the UV filtering glass faceplate removed works good on cherry if your weather is still bad. It was 72 and glorious here today ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 On 4/30/2018 at 11:50 PM, Chet said: The cherry is going to darken nicely over time. So having said that if the chair were mine and its not but if it were, I would stick it in the sun for a day or two to speed up the process. Then I would spray it with General Finishes Enduro-Var which has a little amber to it and it is a water borne finish so it is safe to sprain your basement or garage. I think it is pretty close to the protection you would get from laquar. I used to use GF's High Performance but I tried some Enduro-Var recently and I think it has a better look. Just searching around a bit and found that you bought a Mini Mite 2 a couple years ago. Still like it? I've pretty well talked myself into a HVLP, just debating how many stages I NEED. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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