Popular Post pkinneb Posted March 14, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 Got a couple hours in the shop tonight first up was the sliding dovetails. My jewelry chest will not have a hinged top like Marc's so I did sliding DT's on both the top and the bottom. I was so focused on what I was doing I forgot pictures of the first two slots but you can see here how I used one of those to set up the second slot making the chest symmetrical. I also had to use a makeshift fence because mine would not go back far enough You can see my stop marks here in pencil on the temp fence and white pencil on the piece. Came out good...I agonized over this longer than I needed too... Next I set up for the side partitions...here is my micro adjust knob. A couple taps and I was able to get it dialed in All square, I can live with that Just need to notch the sides 3/8" so they slide past the slot opening but ran out of time tonight more to come... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 On 3/12/2018 at 2:18 PM, bushwacked said: is the wenge a little better as far as splinters go no that its been sanded a little or still sucks splinter wise? Not as bad it definitely sands better then power tools or even really sharp planes. After fretting over the back panel and wood movement I took another woodworkers suggestion and went with a frame and panel rather than solid back which solves my concerns. Not sure why I didn't take more pics but basically cut the rails and stiles to size then laid them out Then with a flat top blade in the table saw I cut a groove just over an 1/8" wide by running each piece over the blade then flipping it to insure the groove was centered. After that I cut the tenons and then shot them to get a nice tight fit Then made the panel and glued it up Next up is to cut dado's in the back for the sides to fit into, grove the top and bottom so it insets into them, and then trim the sides to their final width 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Looks great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted March 17, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 First up today was clean up on the back panel. First I cleaned up the edges Then sanded the panel faces Next up I cut the notches on the sides Then I cut the dado's in the back for the sides...that ought to work Then I headed to the router table to cut the groves for the back panel. I don't use it often but the digital lift came in really hand with this, I only needed to make a 3/8" wide by 1/4" deep groove but this wenge chips so bad it took me five passes on a piece of scrap to cut the groove without splitting it out. Once I had the depth figured out on the scrap piece I zeroed out the gauge. I also added stop blocks but messed up one and over shot by a 1/16" luckily the hinge bar will cover it. Then I cleaned up the corners with chisel and mallet and here is where I ended the night Hard to believe I only began using handtools a couple of years ago Next up the drawer dado's then on to the forms for the curved doors 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 I see signs of a growing addiction .... Your jewelry box is coming together nicely. I wish I had some of your tools ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 The real addiction is the routers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 I kind of like this combo of the two builds. Is there anyway you can post a pic of the Woodsmith box. I just started on Marc’s and am not really keen on the secret drawer nor the lift top. Will yours have the six drawers. Is stealing ideas still considered a form of flattery ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 18 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Is stealing ideas still considered a form of flattery ? If your not stealing ideas, you are not growing your woodworking skills. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Chestnut said: The real addiction is the routers True very true lol 1 hour ago, K Cooper said: I kind of like this combo of the two builds. Is there anyway you can post a pic of the Woodsmith box. I just started on Marc’s and am not really keen on the secret drawer nor the lift top. Will yours have the six drawers. Is stealing ideas still considered a form of flattery ? Everything I have made to date was someone else’s design or at least started out that way I will post a pic or two tomorrow . 52 minutes ago, Chet said: If your not stealing ideas, you are not growing your woodworking skills. Exactly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 18 hours ago, K Cooper said: I kind of like this combo of the two builds. Is there anyway you can post a pic of the Woodsmith box. I just started on Marc’s and am not really keen on the secret drawer nor the lift top. Will yours have the six drawers. Is stealing ideas still considered a form of flattery ? Here you go coop 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Looks great. Excited to watch this progress. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted March 18, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 So got quite few things done today starting with cleaning up the disaster area known as my shop...much better Next up I laid out the dado's for the drawer runners Then did a practice cut to dial in the depth Then I cut the dados. Cutting one then flipping the side end for end then rinse and repeat on the other side. This insures the two sides match and any minor space deviation will end up in the center space of each side. Also make sure and use a backer board because you will see the tear out if there is any. Then I used a 1/4" forstner bit to drill a recess for some magnets used to keep the doors closed, again using a test piece Unfortunately I left the drill running with the sides on it and they vibrated off Well that's not good so I had to dig out the iron and used it along with some water to steam them out best I could This should work Then I moved on to resaw the curly maple for the side doors and the drawer fronts using the same process I showed earlier in the build For those who think you need segmented cutterheads to get good results I submit example A...this is right of my 3 straight blade cutterhead Then I took them down to final thickness on the drum sander which got me here Next I shot the edges for a tight gluejoint This should work Really liking the curly maple should pop when some finish is applied For the drawer fronts I resawed a 2 1/2" wide by 26" long stick in two and then cut three sets of fronts book matching each set Then I knocked out a bending form for the doors...still need to do the cauls I also ordered some door hinges, thought I had them already but unfortunately not I need to pick up some veneer tape and glue this week but there are a few more things I can work on in the mean time. I will most likely make the doors next weekend. Thanks for following along. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thanks man for the pic. Will you be building the drawers with the half blind dts like Marc did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 8 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Thanks man for the pic. Will you be building the drawers with the half blind dts like Marc did? No I will do through DT’s on the front and backs. The front piece will be wenge the sides and back will be maple then I will do an applied front of curly maple and cut the pulls like in the pic above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Wish I had started mine after yours as the half blind’s are kicking my ass and budget. My return on investment is a negative. Looking forward to your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Well not my night in the shop three sets of feet three mistakes, maybe the forth time will be the charm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Been there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 I like the Woodsmith design but I think I prefer the simplicity of Marc's pulls. Woodsmith's pulls grab to much of the attention to my liking. But thats just one person's unsolicited opinion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted March 22, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 4th times a charm...Bought a new forstner bit, added self stick sandpaper to the sides, and used pine for the center of the blank that gets drilled out. Here is a pic of one of the earlier ones where I used maple for the core that gets drilled away I also stopped about 1/4" from the bottom and knocked the remaining core out. If you don't it will break up and beat the crap out of the edges only took me two tries to figure that out Next up I needed to cut the curves on the top, bottom, and front feet. I decided since the wenge chips out so bad a zero clearance insert would be in order so I grabbed some hardboard Then cut the curves Then a quick sand to clean them up Sometimes I can be my own worse enemy when it comes to critiquing my work but I'm really glad I redid the feet until I was happy with the cuts and grain pattern I think they turned out really nice Next I did a dry run on one of the doors just waiting for a shipment from veneersupplies.com to glue them up.. Oh and I need to tape off the form Next up routing the profiles on the top and bottom I'm not looking forward to that at all so I decided to wait until tomorrow. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 23 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Next up routing the profiles on the top and bottom I'm not looking forward to that at all so I decided to wait until tomorrow. So you only need the inside support curve on the two edges to achieve that long, tight bend? That is a great idea! My buddy wants a coffee table, based off of this design and I've been wondering how I could possibly achieve those corners. I'm still more than a bit intimidated... Anyhow, back to your project, thanks for taking us through all the steps, it is looking great! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 Good call on the zero clearance insert. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 10 hours ago, Isaac said: So you only need the inside support curve on the two edges to achieve that long, tight bend? That is a great idea! My buddy wants a coffee table, based off of this design and I've been wondering how I could possibly achieve those corners. I'm still more than a bit intimidated... Anyhow, back to your project, thanks for taking us through all the steps, it is looking great! Issac couple things here. First I do not have a lot of experience with bending but on this project I am using bending plywood and the width is only 12 1/4" wide I am not sure you could scale that up and do it the same way in fact I would doubt it but maybe someone with more experience can speak up and help educate us both 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 First up today was the 60 degree edge bevel on the top and bottom pieces. I had been dreading doing this all week due to the splintery nature of the wenge and now I can say it was with good reason. This stuff looks awesome but what a pain in the butt to work, with anything but sandpaper. Second time on this project the Wixey gauge came in handy on the router table I think all in I took 9 passes to go 5/16" deep and I still had tear out...and this was a brand new never been used Whiteside router bit Ended up filling some tear out with thin super glue and dust/clippings from the router table Put it on shoot a little accelerator on it to get this Rinse and repeat a couple of times sanding in between...not perfect but better. Sorry forgot to take a pick of the damage Next up I started working on the drawer fronts, first planing them and then deciding on the pattern.the three sets of two are book matched then I trimmed and added 1/32" spacers Then I needed to mill up some drawer stock same procedure as before. Resaw at the band saw, send through the drum sander a few times, cut to length at the table saw, and you have parts for 6 drawers Tomorrow I will start knocking out the DT's since there are so many I am going to set up the Forrest Products 7.5 degree blade I bought a while back. That should make the tails a piece of cake. Then I will route the hinge recess for the back to side door connections. I had to take a mortgage out to buy them but hey they are nice hinges 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Looking great! Nice save on the tear out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 I just did the CA glue and sawdust on some gaps on my morris chairs. There was a ply of lamination that decided to let go a little bit on the arms. I love how well that trick works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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