JohnJay Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hi All, I have a large slab redwood slab destined to be a coffee table (see picture). I routed it flat and sanded it down, 80 -> 120 -> 220 -> 320. I would like a little guidance about how to proceed from here. I was planning on finishing it with a clear satin polyurethane, but there are some cracks in the knots where the poly would just leak right through. So I that I was planning to fill the cracks with a clear casting resin then sand down flat then apply the poly. I have several questions about this: (1) will this work as I've described? (2) Can I just apply the resin to the knots or do I have to do a thin coat of resin the whole table to avoid color differences between where the resin was applied and where it wasn't? (3) Or should I just forgo the poly and just plan on resin coating the whole table. I would like a clear gloss finish, but not so glossy that it is essentially reflective whereby you get glare from light that hides the beauty of the natural wood. (4) And finally, should I apply wood conditioner or sanding sealer before applying the resin or poly? In short what are the steps I need to take to get the look I described and am trying to achieve? Edit: Pic of the cracks in the knots i would like to fill. They are small, but they do go all the way through. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Welcome to the forums! A couple close up pictures of the knots and cracks would be helpful but, I'm guessing that you'll be able to fill them with Epoxy and then sand flush and finish. I'd suggest West Systems epoxy but, it is a little hard on the budget. From there, if you have an HVLP, General Finishes High Performance would be my poly of choice. No VOCs, quick dry time between coats, and holds up really well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Agree with Kev, close up of the cracks would be helpful. Also agree that West Systems would be the route to go. That stuff seeps pretty deep so if the crack shows on the other side , tape that side off with blue painters tape to dam it up. I also use the blue tape around the fill area to also create a dam if you will, around the perimeter to contain it. Then, after dry, sand and apply your finish over the epoxy. Unless you’re just hell bent on a glossy, plastic look, I would rethink the sheen to maybe semi or satin. All three will give you the same protection. Post a pic of the final when complete and welcome to the forum. Oh, and if the crack you speak of is actually a check at the end of the slab, a bow tie will help contain it. I added this to a live edge coffee table I built a few years back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJay Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 1 hour ago, ..Kev said: Welcome to the forums! A couple close up pictures of the knots and cracks would be helpful but, I'm guessing that you'll be able to fill them with Epoxy and then sand flush and finish. I'd suggest West Systems epoxy but, it is a little hard on the budget. From there, if you have an HVLP, General Finishes High Performance would be my poly of choice. No VOCs, quick dry time between coats, and holds up really well. I posted a pic of the crack I would like to fill. Can I just fill the crack selectively or do I have to resin the whole table to make a uniform appearance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 1 minute ago, JohnJay said: I posted a pic of the crack I would like to fill. Can I just fill the crack selectively or do I have to resin the whole table to make a uniform appearance? Just fill the crack.. Being in the middle of the knot, it's tough to say long term if those cracks will grow even with epoxy. However, doing the entire slab in epoxy isn't going to prevent that either. Follow Coop's advise and dam up (blue painters tape) the underside (if it goes all the way through) and fill with epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJay Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 33 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Agree with Kev, close up of the cracks would be helpful. Also agree that West Systems would be the route to go. That stuff seeps pretty deep so if the crack shows on the other side , tape that side off with blue painters tape to dam it up. I also use the blue tape around the fill area to also create a dam if you will, around the perimeter to contain it. Then, after dry, sand and apply your finish over the epoxy. Unless you’re just hell bent on a glossy, plastic look, I would rethink the sheen to maybe semi or satin. All three will give you the same protection. Post a pic of the final when complete and welcome to the forum. Oh, and if the crack you speak of is actually a check at the end of the slab, a bow tie will help contain it. I added this to a live edge coffee table I built a few years back. I posted a pic of the cracks I would like to fill. They are not big but they do go all the way through and poly would seep through and not give a smooth finish. Im wondering if I have to coat the whole table to make it appear uniform or can I just fill the knots, then sand, then apply the poly... and if I go that route, should I apply a wood conditioner before applying the poly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJay Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, ..Kev said: Just fill the crack.. Being in the middle of the knot, it's tough to say long term if those cracks will grow even with epoxy. However, doing the entire slab in epoxy isn't going to prevent that either. Follow Coop's advise and dam up (blue painters tape) the underside (if it goes all the way through) and fill with epoxy. Im less worried about the cracks expanding (I dont think they will) Im more concerned with the table appearing uniform in color. If I just apply resin to the knots, then sand, then poly, will the knots look "off" in color? And should I apply a wood conditioner to the table before I apply poly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 1 minute ago, JohnJay said: Im less worried about the cracks expanding (I dont think they will) Im more concerned with the table appearing uniform in color. If I just apply resin to the knots, then sand, then poly, will the knots look "off" in color? And should I apply a wood conditioner to the table before I apply poly? Nope.. Fill and sand. Just don't get too messy with the epoxy. Once it's filled, you should be able to sand everything back so that the only seen epoxy is in the crack where you want it. There's lots of YT videos out there on filling knots. Marc and Cremona have both done them as well as myself and many others. Do a YT search on "stabilizing knots" and it should yield you lots of videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 The resin will fill the knots/cracks, but not really penetrate the surface and cause a color change as oil finishes do. Once you scrape and sand the resin level, it will only appear in the crack. I sometimes mix fine sawdust from the project into the resin, to make it appear less like plastic filler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I have no knowledge of conditioners but IMO, just fill the knots with epoxy, sand smooth, and apply the finish of choice . The epoxy will kind of “pop” the coloring of the knot area. You’ll be pleasantly surprised . We stand by our 30 min. warranty. Or, ask Pinterest or Martha Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Ross, how long have I been missing the Mod lapel signage? Congrats dude? Great Choice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 1 hour ago, K Cooper said: Ross, how long have I been missing the Mod lapel signage? Congrats dude? Great Choice! I think it was April of last year Ken, if memory serves me correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Yeah, Ken! Pay attention, man! And thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 You might practice on a crack in the bottom of the board. Mix sawdust into part and use clear in the rest. Then you can sand it flush and apply finish. Which will let you know what to expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwood_CA Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 I know this is an older post, but wondering if the OP posted pics. Doing a 10ft x 4 ft x 3" redwood slab table now and on the fence of how to finish. Between a Poly (can't decide on oil or water) or perhaps a hard wax oil (Rubio's or Oldies). Any suggestions? It's for indoors. It'll be high traffic as my spouse will be using for crafting, so easy cleanup would be preferred, but she does video's too so want all the beautiful colors to pop too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 I suggest a hard wax oil. I think it brings out the chatoyance better than oil based polyurethane (which is better than water born poly). Hard wax oils are a little less durable, but reportedly are easy to repair/re-coat. Osmo polyx-oil has become my go to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwood_CA Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 Thanks for the input Mark. And I should have included Osmo in the list of choices for the hard wax oil as that is one I've done some research on and considering. I definitely like the fact that the hard wax oil is pretty easy to repair/re-coat as noted. Just wondering how easy it is to wipe clean or if stuff sticks to it (my big worry is the misses crafting mainly involves glitter (she sells glitter for a living) so not sure how easy that clean up/wipe off would be). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 The HWO's are floor finishes, so if they can stand up to furniture and foot steps I'd think they could resist glitter. You could hedge your bets by vacuuming up rather than wiping the glitter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 Osmo cleans up easily and it’s not ‘sticky’ once cured. I have a “coaster” I’ve been using for a while, with half osmo polyx and half General Finish Arm-R-Seal. It’s been in daily use since May 2020 for both hot and cold beverages. The coaster occasionally gets wiped down with a damp cloth. Thanks to my kids it also frequently gets “washed” by spills and food. It has also been “customized” with pencil, pen, and marker, most of which has wiped away. Both have held up really well. I don’t have any concerns using PolyX on furniture. I think I posted an update after about a year, but I can’t find it now. I’ll wipe it down tonight and take another picture. I’d only be concerned if she is using solvents or adhesives of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwood_CA Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 Thanks for sharing, John! Very helpful. I did see a YT video where Kev did a mix/layer with Arm-R-Seal first followed by GF's High Performance, but hadn't thought of doing that with a wax and oil poly as you did. What type of wood are your coasters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 On 12/12/2022 at 4:51 PM, redwood_CA said: Thanks for sharing, John! Very helpful. I did see a YT video where Kev did a mix/layer with Arm-R-Seal first followed by GF's High Performance, but hadn't thought of doing that with a wax and oil poly as you did. What type of wood are your coasters? To be clear, I didn’t layer one over the other, I just ran a piece of tape down the middle of the piece and one side is PolyX and the other side is ARS, and an unfinished bit where the tape was. Just to compare the two options. On cherry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwood_CA Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 thanks for the clarification! I totally thought it was layered (which was baffling me (and did just watch Kev's vid though both polys), but I'm newer to this, so ears wide open...). So from your end both hold are holding up fairly equally....got it! My ultimate concern is high traffic...so can you comment if one seems to have incurred a bit more abuse. I would think with the 'plastic' layer of poly it would be a bit more durable, but maybe its indifferent for normal use (I'm not throwing a bag of nuts and bolts at it). The redwood is pretty soft though, so am leaning toward the poly for a slight advantage in the protection department. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 13, 2022 Report Share Posted December 13, 2022 As mentioned Osmo is a floor finish. The harder polyurathane may resist denting in the soft redwood a wee bit better, but my money is on the hard wax oil for showing fewer scratches. And certainly much easier to refresh or repair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted December 13, 2022 Report Share Posted December 13, 2022 Here is when I first finished it- And now after 2.5yrs of abuse. From hot beverages, cold glasses with condensation, food, spills, being drawn on, being used as a toy, etc. In all, ARS on left and PolyX on right. The very light streaks in both of the finished sides (more noticeable on the right) are due to the wood grain, not the finish. The PolyX has faded a bit, but the ARS has more noticeable scratches and flaking in the finish layer. You can see the pen marks in the center unfinished section, and can see that it cleaned off of both finished sides very well. Except maybe throwing it out of the car on the highway, it’s harder to get more “high traffic” than 3 kids 5 and under. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted December 13, 2022 Report Share Posted December 13, 2022 I also have two kitchen spoons finished with PolyX that were sent through the dishwasher by a very well-intentioned relative. You wouldn’t be able to pick them out of a lineup with my other spoons. I don’t have any concerns about the durability. I do have doubts about how much a poly will do to ‘harden’ a soft wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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