Smoothing plane


Tmize

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1 hour ago, derekcohen said:

 

Mouth size is important, but not what you think. If using a high cutting angle (55 degrees and above), a tight mouth makes absolutely no difference ... other than getting in the way. It definitely gets in the way of the chipbreaker if you close this down. With these setups, you must open the mouth. 

Try setting the chipbreaker close on the #4 - open the mouth by an extra 1-2mm, and then close the chipbreaker to about 0.4mm behind the edge of the blade. Further back than this and the method does not work when taking fine shavings. 

 

Regards from Perth

Derek

So once you get above 45* angle it put more friction down to the surface? Kinda of like if you put to steep a burr on a card scraper less than 80* to the surface makes it super tough to get a clean shaving. 

Ill try an opening the mouth a little bit and an see if I can get the chipbreaker down some more. The way I sent up me irons is I sharpen straight across an knock off the edges to eliminate track marks there is a slight camber but not much. 

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Question on blade width:  I have several #4, #5 Stanley Bailey planes (according to the stamp on the plane bodies.)  The online chart that I found claims that they should be 2" width.  

As I measure them, none of the mouths are as wide as 2".  The irons themselves vary between 1.8" and 1.9" (i.e. greater than 1-3/4", less than 2".)  Is this what you expect?  Is 1-3/4" the usual size for a #4 or a #5?  Are actual sizes different from nominal?

*************

The above is all horse manure - I mis measured my plane irons (severe, embarrassing blush.)

**************

 

Edited by Pondhockey
Correct a mistake.
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12 hours ago, Tmize said:

Well this has raise a question l haven’t thought much about with metallurgy of the blade. So I’ve upgraded all my original Stanley blades with wood river V3 blades an at the time it was a good improvement over stock. So my question is what makes the difference in steel types an what make one better than the other? Is it let’s say pmv-11 the steel they use is it a tighter grain steel so when it is sharpened and honed you get fewer microscopic knicks in the cutting edge? Which in turn reduces wear and also creates a sharper edge due to it is closer plane where the two angles meet at the point? 

I think you can put a pmv-11 blade in the LN planes and veritas has their own A-2 steel blades. So you really can go either way with both companies. If your comparing the A-2 of LN and the PMV-11 of Veritas they are goth going to sharpen to a very high quality edge. They are both high quality steels but the difference between them is a trade-off. I think the stock blade that came with my LN #4 has a slight edge over the PMV-11 for durability and longevity. It doesn't sharpen as fast though.

This is another one of those things that there are going to be 3 opinions the A-2 Crew the O-1 Crew and the PMV-11 crew,  kinda have to just decide. If i buy anything Veritas i get PMV-11 because i think it is good. But i'm not going to buy solely Veritas just for that blade it's not THAT good.

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10 hours ago, Pondhockey said:

Question on blade width:  I have several #4, #5 Stanley Bailey planes (according to the stamp on the plane bodies.)  The online chart that I found claims that they should be 2" width.  

As I measure them, none of the mouths are as wide as 2".  The irons themselves vary between 1.8" and 1.9" (i.e. greater than 1-3/4", less than 2".)  Is this what you expect?  Is 1-3/4" the usual size for a #4 or a #5?  Are actual sizes different from nominal?

 

 

I don’t know if I’ve measured the mouth opening but yes 2” for 4,5. 2 3/8” for 4 1/2,5 1/2,6,7 and 2 5/8 for #8. The #3 I think is 1 5/8” I think. 

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14 minutes ago, derekcohen said:

Generally, A2 steel is made from larger grain, where the focus is on a longer-lasting edge. Being larger grain, the edge does not end up fine, and the large carbides can break off, leaving a chippy edge. In the case of LN, the A2 blades are cryogenically treated, which involved deep freezing. This breaks up the carbides and creates a finer grain structure - but I very much does it comes remotely close to PM-V11. It is also different when sharpening, having a "sticky" feel to it, and leaving a harder-to-remove wire edge,

 

I forgot to mention the finenes of the cut thank you for covering it far better than i could have.

I'm assuming in the Quoted section you meant to say "but i very much don't think it comes close to PMV-11."?

The only question in my mind is how many years of experience will i need before i even notice the small differences? I've never noticed the sticky feel nor the harder to remove wire edge. I do notice that the Ln blade stays sharp a bit longer than the PMV-11. I don't really notice a ton of difference in cut quality not sure if that's the metal or a new modern plane vs an 80 year old one. They both slice end grain well despite higher angle planes not being ideal for end grain cutting.

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3 hours ago, Tmize said:

Are Veritas A2 cytogenetic tested or just normal air cooled? The two planes I have from them are small router plane and side rabbet both with A2 blades both with these two planes I don’t use all the time so hard to judge edge retention. 

cytogenetic = cryogenic?  Looks like an aggressive spell check substitution.

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@derekcohen I was reading your review on your website about the bevel up smoother an compared to your other smoothers you have. An my take on it was at standard pitch  it was still a top contender. When it went to high angle it seem to be the top contender. I know it has been some years now has your option changed any on now you have had more time with it. As I’m starting to lean toward it more now as choice as my next plane

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I have always been a BD user. I tried the LN No.62 LAJP and did not like it. The little things I did not like: no lateral adjustment, lighter than a No 5, nothing to rest my index finger on when I had it pointed down the cut...but the biggest thing I did not like was the difficulty in changing the depth of cut.  I much prefer to be able to reach down with my finger and spin the adjustment wheel.

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