Gary W Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 I am having trouble when I glue up cutting boards with the boards moving as I tighten my clamps. I get the boards all lined up on both 1st and 2nd glue ups but as soon as I start to add pressure some of the blanks move. Obviously I am doing something wrong but I do not know what. I have boards sanded flat, both sides, after first glue up. My first 3 or 4 boards were good but after doing about 20, you can see where the alignment is off on the finished board. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Tried the 'salt trick'? Sprinkle a bit of salt in the joint to give the surface some grip. Supposed to work pretty well, I haven't tried it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Tightening the clamps slowly helps.. Tighten the center one just a little then move out only slightly tightening. Then come back and increase the pressure a little and do it again. repeat until you have the clamping pressure you're looking for. Also, too much glue won't help the situation. Welcome to the forums! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post lewisc Posted March 27, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 I use a few pieces of pine covered with tape and a couple of clamps to bring them in line. I don’t do fancy patterns so perfect alignment is not as important for me. I normally wing it and see what comes up. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Interesting in that I never gave the alignment of the final glue-up much consideration(?). I'm sure this one is off here and there but, I no one seemed to notice. Be that as it may, the salt trick does work, silica sand does too. You can also do two of three strips at a time and then glue up the sub-assemblies. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Salt trick works, use sparingly as it doesn't take much. The painters tape and using a caul/board to constrain things works well too as Lewisc stated. I also cover the bar of my clamp in painters tap then wax the whole thing and use the bar as well. This isn't a 1 time use i leave the tape on. The clamp grips just fine through it. Makes the clamps look goofy but they don't get covered in glue any more. Lasts a couple years of moderate use before the tape gets chewed up than i peel the tape off and put a new layer on. The glue doesn't stick to the tape but rather stays with the wood piece so it really prevents the clamps from getting any glue globs on them. I do the same with pipe clamps which stops the black pipe from staining your work piece. They are the blue things in the right corner in the image above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post G Ragatz Posted March 27, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 2 hours ago, gee-dub said: Interesting in that I never gave the alignment of the final glue-up much consideration(?). I'm sure this one is off here and there but, I no one seemed to notice. Be that as it may, the salt trick does work, silica sand does too. You can also do two of three strips at a time and then glue up the sub-assemblies. That's a beautiful board, but I'd never be able to use it in the kitchen. Between that pattern and the (mandatory) glasses of wine, I'd be too dizzy to cook dinner! 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Shoot, I just use biscuits for alignment. It's never caused me a problem, and makes the whole thing less stressful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 Good info here so far. Like others, i clamp slowly, from the inside out, and have at least two cauls on hand. I don't clamp the cauls in though, I push down from the top (clamp bar on the other side) and Pat the ends as well. A dead blow hammer is good for any fine adjustment under a little pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.