Pennsylvania spice box build


Chip Sawdust
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On 12/4/2019 at 7:58 AM, Chip Sawdust said:

There’s a jig needed to make grooves for the partitions. They have to be 9” long exactly. There are pictures of the jig in the article that accompanies the plan, but no dimensions. So I sized a piece of 1/4” material, made a fence about yay wide that engages the dado on the back side of the box, and added runners for my little DeWalt router. Yeah, I have to use that spiral bit again *eek* 

Made the jig, tested it on a piece of scrap and pronounced it good. Tonight I’ll make those grooves and all will be well, since I’m gonna tighten the crap out of that bit! 

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Just don't bottom out the bit.  Take it all the way in, then pull it up  a tad, then tighten the hell out of it.

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2 minutes ago, RichardA said:

Just don't bottom out the bit.  Take it all the way in, then pull it up  a tad, then tighten the hell out of it.

Yeah I never bottom it out. When I pulled the collet I found a little dust which I blew out, then reasembled and tightened the crap out of it. I even marked the little Freud container for it "tighten!". :)

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My first attempt at treble stringing, it turned out ok but not 100% happy with the joint. But it looks good and I also fit the clock and planed the panel to thickness. 

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The clock requires a 1/4” recess and the panel is 5/16” o the tip of the Forstner bit made a tiny hole on the back side, but I’m not going to fret over it. Nor am I adding any stringing to the inside of the door, although the plan calls for it, and lettering. I’m just not far enough along in my skill set to try letters. I’ve watched a few videos and have a gouge set but just don’t have the kinesthetic time into it yet. 

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Funny you should mention hinges. I bought two or three sets and don’t like any of them. Horton has a perfect set but they’re $40 for a couple tiny hinges. But... they’re perfect! So I’m thinking I should order them. 
Thanks for the input on the design. I still have options, even after I set the panel into the frame. 

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23 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I had to buy mine :P worth every penny. Beretta knows how to make a shotgun....

It’s a nice gun, and its age doesn’t bother me. This was imported between ‘68-‘73 but Beretta doesn’t have a serial number archive going back that far so that’s as close as I can come. It points really nice, can’t wait to go make noise with it!

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1 hour ago, Chip Sawdust said:

It’s a nice gun, and its age doesn’t bother me. This was imported between ‘68-‘73 but Beretta doesn’t have a serial number archive going back that far so that’s as close as I can come. It points really nice, can’t wait to go make noise with it!

Not to take a tangent but older firearms are awesome. My deer hunting rifle for the first 10 years i hunted was a mauser made in 1895. It was and still is a great rifle. I wanted a scope though so I eventually got something newer. 200y shots with a deer on the run through open sights gets tricky.

To try and keep things somewhat on topic the fan inlays look awesome. I really need to try inlay one of these days. Unfortunately all of my ideas are complicated. I've also been following this stringing stuff and i still have zero idea how you accomplish it. It just looks like black magic to me.

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The bead, it turns out, is larger than it was supposed to be. So there’s a bit too much rounded material where the rail meets the stile. In the parlance of Microsoft, I’m gonna say “that’s not a bug, it’s a feature!” 
I don’t know why my pictures are turning sideways when I post them, sorry about that.

To trim the mitered beads I clamped a 45 on the piece and shaved them with a chisel.

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Got the bottom rail done and did a few dry fits. It’s not coming together exactly right so a little fiddling left to do before I’m happy. This door has given me a lot of experience (read, “learn from mistakes”), so all in all I’m glad I tackled this. I got my hinges from Horton the other day, and have to make the drawers.

Mama wants one bigger, deeper drawer so I have to change the design a little to accommodate that. I’ll just take the two bottom drawers and make one instead. The v-groove for the divider I think I can fill with one scrap piece I had left over. You won’t see it at lol unless you pull the drawer out. And I’m not too bad at fixing mistakes, I make enough of them :) 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here’s my latest dilemma. The base moulding is pretty easy but the crown moulding is messing with me. I have the thick wood, but am thinking I may actually have to cut it in half and make two passes on the router table then glue them back together. I’m wide open to suggestions. Here’s the pattern and my big piece of sapele... and the router bits I think are closest to what I want. It doesn’t have to be exactly the pattern, but it has to be the right size, of course. 

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