shop interior siding

[treesner]

talked about options with my contractor (for kitchen remodel) today he was trying to talk me into plywood instead of T1-11. He said it’s no longer approved for house siding which has driven up the cost for it so it’s a lot more expensive then the 1/2” ply? Need to check the prices locally and see the cost difference, it would be purely aesthetic but in my head it looks better and a bit more unique 

[..Kev]

I went through this a bit in my new shop..  Long story short, do your own pricing!  The mark up from my contractor was absolutely ridiculous!  I was fortunate that my contractor stayed with the labor cost and allowed me to supply the material.  Saved me well over a grand.

[Chestnut]

6 hours ago, treesner said:

talked about options with my contractor (for kitchen remodel) today he was trying to talk me into plywood instead of T1-11. He said it’s no longer approved for house siding which has driven up the cost for it so it’s a lot more expensive then the 1/2” ply? Need to check the prices locally and see the cost difference, it would be purely aesthetic but in my head it looks better and a bit more unique 

Dang your contractor wasn't joking. T1-11 is $38 a sheet out there it's $25 here. I don't know anything about this stuff but for the price I'd buy a sheet and see what it's about https://www.homedepot.com/p/TruWood-Sturdy-Panel-48-in-x-96-in-Engineered-Wood-Panel-Siding-7POMSP/202531838

Looks like LP smart side Is ~$35 a sheet in your area https://www.homedepot.com/p/LP-SmartSide-SmartSide-48-in-x-96-in-Strand-Panel-Siding-27874/100055901

And a sanded 1/2" ply is $32. The $3 a sheet for the LP smart side might be worth it just in primer cost. The downside is it's 3/8" which limits screw holding. Though I'd not hesitate to hang 35-40 lbs from a screw driven into it.

 

[treesner]

4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Dang your contractor wasn't joking. T1-11 is $38 a sheet out there it's $25 here. I don't know anything about this stuff but for the price I'd buy a sheet and see what it's about https://www.homedepot.com/p/TruWood-Sturdy-Panel-48-in-x-96-in-Engineered-Wood-Panel-Siding-7POMSP/202531838

Looks like LP smart side Is ~$35 a sheet in your area https://www.homedepot.com/p/LP-SmartSide-SmartSide-48-in-x-96-in-Strand-Panel-Siding-27874/100055901

And a sanded 1/2" ply is $32. The $3 a sheet for the LP smart side might be worth it just in primer cost. The downside is it's 3/8" which limits screw holding. Though I'd not hesitate to hang 35-40 lbs from a screw driven into it.

 

 

oh yeah $38 is what he said it would cost. my new house is at 95713. on Home Depot site it says the

t1-11 is 33 

sturdy pannel is 21

Lp smart side is 32 

that lp smart side looks like its OSB on one side instead of plywood, not sure if thats better or worse for garage. all primed would be nice though as I imagine ply wood or t1-11 will take a lot of paint to get white. 

I was leaning toward 1/2" thickness because I just want to do a tool wall which won't be to heavy to hang on, if I need a shelf I can just find a stud I think 

[treesner]

10 hours ago, ..Kev said:

I went through this a bit in my new shop..  Long story short, do your own pricing!  The mark up from my contractor was absolutely ridiculous!  I was fortunate that my contractor stayed with the labor cost and allowed me to supply the material.  Saved me well over a grand.

thanks my contractor seems pretty cool and trying to save me money. he also says I buy material / cabinets ect. he said that some how helps him to keep his total spending down, wondering if it keeps him in a lower tax bracket to do that or something? 

[..Kev]

9 minutes ago, treesner said:

thanks my contractor seems pretty cool and trying to save me money. he also says I buy material / cabinets ect. he said that some how helps him to keep his total spending down, wondering if it keeps him in a lower tax bracket to do that or something? 

Probably not..  Reality is that you have pretty much the same options for material as he does.  He has to add a markup to cover costs of pick up and transport etc so, costs you more.  Plus, if you buy and pick up all that stuff and it's wrong, it's 100% your fault..  

[legenddc]

Maybe he's bouncing off his credit card limit so not buying the supplies helps him have more room for other jobs?

[wtnhighlander]

A single sheet of 1/2 or 3/4" ply makes a good-sided "tool wall" area. Nothing says the entire wall has to be that way. My tool wall/board is screwed to studs through the drywall.

[treesner]

T1-11 paitnted white mockup vs just ply or drywall

hard to get a feel from a mockup up tho  

 

 

 

 

havent moved any wood tools in this is just. stuff left over from owner

 

[treesner]

On 8/11/2020 at 10:27 AM, treesner said:

 

oh yeah $38 is what he said it would cost. my new house is at 95713. on Home Depot site it says the

t1-11 is 33 

sturdy pannel is 21

Lp smart side is 32 

that lp smart side looks like its OSB on one side instead of plywood, not sure if thats better or worse for garage. all primed would be nice though as I imagine ply wood or t1-11 will take a lot of paint to get white. 

I was leaning toward 1/2" thickness because I just want to do a tool wall which won't be to heavy to hang on, if I need a shelf I can just find a stud I think 

 

this duratemp is 27.98 which is a plywood and I think I like the look. of the narrower. planks

but the LP smart siding is 32.98 which is an OSB

Do you think one is ply is better than osb?
they're both 3/8". which is probably fine for holding hand tools and such with a screw

there is a cheaper T1-11 Brown engineered primed thats .43 thick for $21 but it looks much rougher for the dust, probably need more primer to paint it up too 

[Chestnut]

5 hours ago, treesner said:

Do you think one is ply is better than osb?
they're both 3/8". which is probably fine for holding hand tools and such with a screw

It really depends. For this application i doubt there would be a difference. The chips and strands in OSB are big enough to make for good screw holding. It won't have any internal voids like plywood will probably have.

I used the LP smart side to side my shed and it was  a good product. There is something about it that makes it seem stronger and perform better than run of the mill OSB. I have OSB and it seems like you can break it far easier than the LP stuff. I have some scraps around i could put a screw in one and see if i can hang from it.

Interestingly this just showed up in my recommended area.

 

[Mark J]

6 hours ago, treesner said:

they're both 3/8". which is probably fine for holding hand tools and such with a screw

There are a couple of things you can also do to enhance a screw's hold in between studs on any of these products if you're hanging something heavier than a screwdriver.  

You can attach a secondary plate of 3/8" material with glue and screws to spread out the load of your hanger.  You can treat your paneling like drywall and use expanding type anchors for your attachment points.  I'm thinking of those metal ones with the four expanding prongs.  Being intended for drywall I don't know if these will go as thin as 3/8", but you could easily add a spacer to the outside to make up the thickness.

[pkinneb]

7 hours ago, treesner said:

Do you think one is ply is better than osb?

At $5 a sheet price difference I would go with the cheaper one as long as the face is what you are looking for.

[drzaius]

7 hours ago, treesner said:

Do you think one is ply is better than osb?
they're both 3/8". which is probably fine for holding hand tools and such with a screw

3/8" is fine for holding small tools, but not for heavy stuff. I'd go at least 1/2". I used 13/16 OSB for my interior walls, which is probably overkill, but I got it for less than half price. I can't stand the look of OSB, so I painted it with white semi-gloss.

[Mark J]

Another thought.  If you know where your tool wall is going to go you back up those sections of the paneling with a second layer or 3/8" material fitted in between the studs. 

[Mark J]

3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Interestingly this just showed up in my recommended area.

 

So why would I want to use this stuff over an ordinary 2x4?

[pkinneb]

9 minutes ago, Mark J said:

So why would I want to use this stuff over an ordinary 2x4?

It might actually be straight and square

[wtnhighlander]

1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

It might actually be straight and square

And knot-free.

[Chestnut]

2 hours ago, Mark J said:

So why would I want to use this stuff over an ordinary 2x4?

Shannon talked about materials like this on lumber industry update. If it starts becoming more common place it could drive prices lower than solid wood for the reason that more of the tree is being used and it allows for the use of trees that don't meet grade to be used for solid timbers due to knots etc. The specific talk was to use LSL and LVL in place of steel, and that using wood in place of steel in these situations is both cheaper and better for the environment from a carbon sequestration standpoint. Every wood stud in a wall is a carbon emission that isn't going back into the atmosphere.

For some larger spans and sizes LVL and LSL are less expensive right now than solid lumber.

[drzaius]

2 hours ago, Mark J said:

So why would I want to use this stuff over an ordinary 2x4?

Straighter, stronger, more stable, more consistent, uniform dimensions. In other words, much better in every way than dimensional lumber, except for cost.

[Tom King]

I think I may have not remembered correctly the brand of that stuff on our dogroom walls.  It is not OSB, but some type of hardboard a lot like Masonite.

Duratemp doesn't sound right, but it's probably very similar.  Pick through the stack, and don't get any with bruised edges.  Be careful with every step of the handling, all the way until it's on the wall.

I hand nailed it with 6 cc sinkers, because a nail gun leaves craters.  You can't see the sinker heads, after it's painted, unless you go looking for them to find a stud.  They need to be painted with a slash of oil based primer, or they will bleed rust through latex paint.

Set it on little setting blocks of scrap.  Nail first at the top corner, take the setting block out, and nail it down radiating out from the first nail.  Do the same for each sheet, starting at the top corner of the rabbet edge.  If you set it on the floor before you nail it,  it's not going to end up being tight to every stud.

For a tool wall, put blocks between the studs to help with strength.

[treesner]

57 minutes ago, Tom King said:

I think I may have not remembered correctly the brand of that stuff on our dogroom walls.  It is not OSB, but some type of hardboard a lot like Masonite.

Duratemp doesn't sound right, but it's probably very similar.  Pick through the stack, and don't get any with bruised edges.  Be careful with every step of the handling, all the way until it's on the wall.

I hand nailed it with 6 cc sinkers, because a nail gun leaves craters.  You can't see the sinker heads, after it's painted, unless you go looking for them to find a stud.  They need to be painted with a slash of oil based primer, or they will bleed rust through latex paint.

Set it on little setting blocks of scrap.  Nail first at the top corner, take the setting block out, and nail it down radiating out from the first nail.  Do the same for each sheet, starting at the top corner of the rabbet edge.  If you set it on the floor before you nail it,  it's not going to end up being tight to every stud.

For a tool wall, put blocks between the studs to help with strength.

would it bet better to screw it on if I ever need to get into the wall for electrical and such?

[wtnhighlander]

6 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Shannon talked about materials like this on lumber industry update. 

That hemp-wood stuff he talked about looks like an up-and-comer as well. Still really pricey, and ugly as mud, but should make a good building material.

Wonder how it smells in the firepit?