shop interior siding

[treesner]

going to insulate my 28x22’ garage shop soon and was planning on drywalling it  however I'm wondering if theres better options? my friend said he prefers plywood (painted white, looks cool with grain showing through) as you can mount stuff anywhere and not deal with breaking drywall. I also do a lot of photos / videos in the shop so want it to look good. Was wondering if there was some kind of exterior house siding that might work on the interior without breaking the bank like doing full wood siding (which always looks great). White drywall kind of looks boring but I guess with some wood trim it looks better 

here's some samples I pulled to see what some different interiors look like, open to ideas!

 

 

[Chestnut]

T1-11 siding, stain it, paint it, just poly. I don't think there is a wrong or right way to go.

https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tool-wall-garage-door-cover-new-fans-dc-upgrades-shop-update-617/

What ever you do trim it out. My shop has plywood and the edges are exposed and it really doesn't look nice. it's not an inviting space, though that's also not my intention. Some day I'd like to make it a nice inviting space but i have the rest of my life to accomplish that. Right now I want to build furniture.

 

[pkinneb]

If I was to do it again I would go with T1-11 siding painted white as well. Mine is dry walled, taped, and painted white but the convenience of being able to mount things anywhere would be great. I would still drywall, tape and paint the ceiling just for the finished look.

[Tom King]

There are hardboard siding panels sold in the box stores, that looks a lot like T111.  It has an embossed woodgrain texture, but no footballs, and all you have to do is paint it, since it's already primed-no sanding needed.  I put it in our dogroom, and newest closets.  I think this is LP Smartside.

Everyone that's seen it, including a couple of architects, has made positive comments about the way it looks.

The grooves are on 8" centers, so it makes it easy to find the studs.  I nailed it up, by hand, with 6d cement coated nails.  I hit the nails with a slash of oil based primer, and sprayed it with latex. You have to look hard to find the nails, but you can find them if you look closely.  I've used it several times in other houses, done the same way, since I built this dogroom in 2006.

 

[Tpt life]

LP Smartside is typically compressed, resin impregnated OSB. It is a good option if available. 

[Tom King]

I don't normally like fake woodgrain, but this is really pretty good.  It sure takes a lot less time than finishing sheetrock.

[wtnhighlander]

One advantage of using ply or such is that (with screws ) it is removable. That makes shop reconfigurations a breeze. Electrical and plumbing in the walls can be ooened up an manipulated with much less effort and waste than behind drywall.

[gee-dub]

35 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

One advantage of using ply or such is that (with screws ) it is removable. That makes shop reconfigurations a breeze. Electrical and plumbing in the walls can be ooened up an manipulated with much less effort and waste than behind drywall.

I have experience doing this in my previous shop.  When I needed to add a few more outlets during a rearrange effort being able to pull stuff off the wall, pull the panel screws, drop the panel, run the new electric and replace the panel was great.  This was primed and painted 7/16" OSB.  I did not tape the joints and never really noticed them.

I plan to use thinner ply or OSB again on the new shop.  Painting it a bright semi-gloss white really increased my light output.  There was a code requirement where I live to use 5/8" drywall above and below the load center so you may want to check your local codes.

[Coop]

Your forth pic would drive me crazy. I’d rather look up at the sun for 3 hours. 

[Mark J]

I prefer to have the electrical surface mounted.  It obviates opening the walls to make the changes you know are going to happen.  And the conduit is a useful place to put something up with a magnet.

A lot of people like white walls in a shop, but me, personally, I like a little bit of color.  The natural finish that Marc did looks very pleasant.

[legenddc]

How high is your ceiling? If you do the sheets horizontally you could do a 4' sheet, 1' sheet and then another 4'. Allowing you to only remove the 1' section to run more electrical outlets. Adjust accordingly. That way you don't have to remove everything from the walls.

[treesner]

21 hours ago, Chestnut said:

T1-11 siding, stain it, paint it, just poly. I don't think there is a wrong or right way to go.

https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tool-wall-garage-door-cover-new-fans-dc-upgrades-shop-update-617/

What ever you do trim it out. My shop has plywood and the edges are exposed and it really doesn't look nice. it's not an inviting space, though that's also not my intention. Some day I'd like to make it a nice inviting space but i have the rest of my life to accomplish that. Right now I want to build furniture.

 

 

I like the idea of t1-11, gives the wall some texture with the lines. probably paint it white to make the space feel bigger and brighter

anyone have any t1-11 interior shop photos? couldn't find very many. kind of considering horizontal or diagonal with the lines 

 

 

[treesner]

1/8" particle board with pattern printed on it 19.99 at homedepot. 

 

 

[treesner]

sanded ply with roof in corrugated poly carbonate ceiling silver to look like tin 

 

 

finished

 

[treesner]

 

looks nice but kind of a lot of work cutting all that down with bevels 

 

[treesner]

18 hours ago, Tom King said:

There are hardboard siding panels sold in the box stores, that looks a lot like T111.  It has an embossed woodgrain texture, but no footballs, and all you have to do is paint it, since it's already primed-no sanding needed.  I put it in our dogroom, and newest closets.  I think this is LP Smartside.

Everyone that's seen it, including a couple of architects, has made positive comments about the way it looks.

The grooves are on 8" centers, so it makes it easy to find the studs.  I nailed it up, by hand, with 6d cement coated nails.  I hit the nails with a slash of oil based primer, and sprayed it with latex. You have to look hard to find the nails, but you can find them if you look closely.  I've used it several times in other houses, done the same way, since I built this dogroom in 2006.

 

 

that looks good, how thick? like 3/8? could you hang stuff up withs crews like tools and such (shelves obviously want to do in studs) 

[treesner]

18 hours ago, Tom King said:

I don't normally like fake woodgrain, but this is really pretty good.  It sure takes a lot less time than finishing sheetrock.

which option were you referring to? 

[Tom King]

3 hours ago, treesner said:

 

that looks good, how thick? like 3/8? could you hang stuff up withs crews like tools and such (shelves obviously want to do in studs) 

I don't think the panel alone will hold a lot of weight, but it's easy to find the studs.  You don't even need a stud finder.

[Tom King]

3 hours ago, treesner said:

which option were you referring to? 

That stuff we have in the dog room.  It looks a lot like T111, but the surface is really smooth, and it takes paint nicely, since it's already primed.  There is absolutely no sanding needed.  You nail it up, and paint it.

[treesner]

17 minutes ago, Tom King said:

I don't think the panel alone will hold a lot of weight, but it's easy to find the studs.  You don't even need a stud finder.

was planning on doing a tool wall type of thing where I'd put a bunch of tools up which might not be located right on a stud thats the only thing

 

it does look really nice and clean though. I think the t1-11 I would need to hit with a belt sander before putting up and painting 

 

[legenddc]

Here’s some 1970s wood paneling that was painted white before we moved here. It’s hard to see the lines in person. My wife didn’t realize it was paneling for a few years and she usually has a sharp eye. 

 

 

[wtnhighlander]

Keep dust collection in mind if you consider a textured surface. Even with taped and painted drywall, I have to sweep down the walls after dusty operations. I can't imagine ever getting all the dust off of T1-11.

[Mick S]

Wish I still had photos, but the first house I ever bought had been in the process of being remodeled by a young couple, when, on Christmas Eve he was hit head on coming home from working on the house by a drunk driver and killed. Eventually his wife contracted with a 19 year old college student (brilliant - I wound up working with him) who was working to put himself through school. It was a 1914 Sears Craftsman home, all wood frame with a very high pitched roof.

The kid added a stairwell, opened up the attic space and finished it out on all vertical and pitched surfaces by ripping 2x12 southern yellow pine into ¼" thick strips and nailing it horizontally to the studs and rafters. Added a couple of dormers and a bathroom and, of course, a ceiling fan. Even hung a porch swing and added a closet. The effect was so cool, like walking into a cozy cabin, and very cheap compared to other materials, labor notwithstanding. 

Spent many, many hours up there listening to tunes in an altered state.

[treesner]

33 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Keep dust collection in mind if you consider a textured surface. Even with taped and painted drywall, I have to sweep down the walls after dusty operations. I can't imagine ever getting all the dust off of T1-11.

thats an interesting thought

hmmm

 

1 hour ago, legenddc said:

Here’s some 1970s wood paneling that was painted white before we moved here. It’s hard to see the lines in person. My wife didn’t realize it was paneling for a few years and she usually has a sharp eye. 

 

 

I like the look of that 

[Robby W]

My house came with an insulated and drywalled garage, err, shop. It only had one 120v outlet in the shop, which obviously wouldn't cut the mustard. I added a surface mounted subpanel and then ran thin wall conduit (EMT) on the surface. I ran most of it down low and you barely know it is there with all of the stuff hung on the wall. Best part is that anytime I need a new circuit, I just grab the conduit bender and have at it. 

Even with the drywall and paint, I have to sweep the walls every once in awhile. I would use a slicker paint if I could do it again. Something dust won't stick to as easily.