TS blade suggestions needed


PA WOODCHUCK
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I have a Jet TS Pro with original blade(40T carbide) which is about 4 years old. I don't do many projects, but was cutting a 2 x 4 to 1 x4. I found I had to feed very, very  slow otherwise could stall the TS. I'm looking for suggestions for a better blade thinking it's not the best or dull. I usually visit (lowes/homedepot) since there're close. HD mainly sells DIABLO and dewalt for lowes.

Educate my and thanks

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I have the same saw and really like it. If you are using the original blade, then any blade on the market will be an improvement. They could have eliminated the blade on my saw, saved on shipping and we both would have been ahead. Both the Diablo and Milwaukee will impress you after using your current one. IMO, the Freud blade is a couple steps up over these two. I just recently bought my first Forrest Woodworker II blade and as long as my SS check continues to arrive, I will keep buying the Forrest. 

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Sounds like your blade is either dull, or dirty. Try cleaning it to remove built-up pitch / resin from the teeth, it may perform much better. As for replacements from home center stores, I am getting remarkable performance from a Spyder Tarantula brand 60T blade from Lowes. It is intended for cross cuts, but does unnaturally well for rips, too. 

Understand that home center blades are generally thinner than premium woodworking blades, and have less carbide on the teeth. That means they can deflect under pressure, and may not be resharpenable, and least not more than once or twice. On the other hand, they are quite a bit cheaper...

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LI am a fan of forest blades.  I have 2 and have sent them to Forrest for sharpening twice.  IF I sned them both togeterh I save on shipping and since i can get at least couple more sharpenings of of them the life time cost is less than you would think.  Then again I haven't done the math.

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On 11/9/2021 at 7:57 PM, Ronn W said:

LI am a fan of forest blades.  I have 2 and have sent them to Forrest for sharpening twice.  IF I sned them both togeterh I save on shipping and since i can get at least couple more sharpenings of of them the life time cost is less than you would think.  Then again I haven't done the math.

Ronn, when you send them for sharpening, do you give them a heads up and get a work order number from them or something? How does that work? And why send them back to Forrest instead of a local sharpening company?

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Forrest is great to deal with.  I leave a hand written piece of paper, on top of the blades, in the box with instructions, and my phone number for them to call, if any questions.  They usually do, to discuss individual blades, even though I noted to toss a blade if it didn't have another sharpening in it, and replace with the same, or not to replace one if it was done. 

No local sharpening here.  I've been dealing with Forrest since sometime in the 1980's.  I do understand others are as good, but I like dealing with them.  If I'm sending them blades, it's a box of at least ten. 

They sharpen blades other than their own, and those will come back better than they were to start with.  I have some blades from good companies that went out of business, but still have good life left in them.

Back when I mostly dealt with a family owned building supplier (went out of business in 1992), they had weekly pickup by a blade sharpening company, and the blades would come back the next week.  I never sent my good blades to them. That's not available anymore, but they were never as good as Forrest is.

I have several of these.  Blades stay separated on them by washers.  One is for dull blades.  When that one gets full, it goes to be sharpened.  I'll take the blades off, and make notes on that handwritten paper.   https://www.woodcraft.com/products/blade-runner-1050-circular-saw-storage-case?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-K2MBhC-ARIsAMtLKRubD5relB9H_QXca-eulsVXW-f7M0k8-f_Ctjk5uwO_DHj361zOgIgaApNREALw_wcB  

12" blades go in the same box, separated by cardboard.  I never take time to clean blades, other than a blast of carb cleaner if it's run much Heart Pine.  If one is so dirty it needs to be cleaned, bad enough that a blast of carb cleaner won't clean it, it's probably dull too.

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Inthe past I have just in cluded a note in the box telling them what I want.  If there are any problems or if my note is unclearthey will call.  YOu can always call and ask what information is most helpful to them.  When the baldes were new the cut is superb so I figure that it will be superb again if I have them sharpen it.  So far I have not been dissapointed.  I believe that they check for warping and and any other defects that could affect the blade's perfromance.

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I use the Forrest Woodworker II grind 1. I find it does everything I need better than other blades. Most of the combo blades don't rip well, but this blade does. You sacrifice a little on cross it with it, but all around, I like it best for general purpose. If I need something more, I use a dedicated blade.

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