Cutting Board with Inlay

[gee-dub]

You've seen me do these before so I won't get too far into the details. I have owed LOML a cutting board for about 3 years. Rip up some maple.

Get a general size approval from her nibs.

The pieces are two different thicknesses since that is the stock I had handy. I lay them out grouped by thickness so I can roll the glue on.

I then roll them into position alternating thick and thin. Again, this just happened because of the stock I had handy. This is an edge-grain board so there is some arranging of the pieces for looks. Once marked they are easily reassembled into the pattern I want once glue is applied.

I cut some stock for the inlay strips. Hey! What's all that spoil doing all over the saw.

Note to self . . . turn the dust collector "ON" before sawing Here's some paduak, cherry, and walnut ready to inlay.  I often think about that You Tube video explaining how you can't use a fence to cut veneer while I'm doing this .

[treeslayer]

Bent lamination @gee-dub ? If so I’d be interested in your process, always looking for a new/better way than what I’m doing 

[gee-dub]

On 7/16/2022 at 4:58 PM, treeslayer said:

Bent lamination @gee-dub ? If so I’d be interested in your process, always looking for a new/better way than what I’m doing 

Correct.  Bent lamination.  I went into some detail in a previous thread.  I see that back then I hadn't figured out how to get the forum software to respect the rotational settings . 

I am happy to share as much as possible.  I'll ramp up the detail on this thread since I see the previous one wasn't really all that good.  I am glad to answer any specific questions as well.  I always enjoy being able to give back to all the great folks who have shared things with me here and helped me along.   I have to throttle myself back sometimes because I tend to over-talk and over-picture things .

This is basically the Scott Lewis method from a FWW article back in May/June 2013.  The one sticking point that can get away from people is that the sweeping groove you route (where the blank is cut, flush-trimmed, and eventually re-joined with inlay) needs to match the inlay dimension. 

In this version I will use 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" lamination stacks of walnut, cherry, and padauk respectively.  The routed curves and eventual separations of the blank will match those thicknesses.  If I described that horribly I will be more detailed through the rest of the build and will try to cover that more carefully.

[gee-dub]

I remove the bulk of the squeeze out with a crook neck chisel.

Then I bring the blank closer to level with a cabinet scraper.  It is still pretty rough even after this stage.  I just need it smooth enough to accurately template route the groove.

I have a template from previous versions.  This board is a different scale and I want a more gentle sweep to the inlay.  I draw it out free hand, saw it close on the bandsaw and then fair the curve by hand.  A Shinto held at a steep angle brings the curve into form rather quickly.

After that I use coarse sandpaper and a shop made flexible sanding block.

I had not faired the curve enough with the file.  I hit a snag, stalled the block's forward motion, and pushed a few of the fingers right off of the block.  It should still get me through the project.  If not I will be sure to show how to make these if I do that.

There is no real science to this.  If the curve looks right to you, it's right.

[gee-dub]

I clamp the blank to a table and clamp the template to it.  I shoot for about 1/4" depth so I will have a good bearing surface for the . . . uh . . . bearing at the router table.  PPE definitely required for this.

I then cut away the waste at the bandsaw.  I try to get pretty close to the line on both sides.

The less I leave behind the less the router bit will have to deal with.

The router bit I want to use was a little grungy.  While I let some LA Awesome soak into the gunk I do a little clean up.

I use a top / bottom bearing bit so I can always route downhill and avoid tear out.

And there you go.

Now I have to go find that clamping rig I cobbled together back in 2013.  I just used it a couple of years ago, how far could it go?  In my defense we are remodeling and objects have gotten shuffled from one area to another with little oversight.

 

[gee-dub]

I found all the parts to the clamping rig.  It was spread amongst 3 different buildings so it is amazing that it is all here .  This rig was made from poor plywood scrounged from the dividers between pallets in truck trailers.  I only mention this because this is really a version 1.  It just keeps on tickin' . 

After a little clean up you stage the parts like so.

Position the two halves of the blank with the inlay opening at the notch in the lower cauls.  You will notice a lot of packing tape on surfaces.  This is just an easy and disposable way of . . . best-case: keeping glue off of things it shouldn't be on or . . . worst-case: ending up with one big glued up mass of stuff

Lay in the inlay strips.  In the actual glue up there would be glue between all the strips as well; as on the blank edges that will capture the inlay strips.  The strips are setting a bit low in the gap here.

I wrap some scrap in packing tape to elevate the inlay strips and get them more centered in the gap. 

This gives me a better shot at a success should things shift a bit while applying the clamps.

I position these heavy duty Quick Grip clamps that I bought just for doing these kinds of things.

They have a degree of parallelism in the jaw design that draws things together evenly.

I add some clamps that have a more aggressive clamping power.  All these clamps are loose at this point.  You can see that the upper cauls have been added to the rig.  These get slid down so that they restrict horizontal misalignment and then get tightened into position with the jig knobs.  This keep the blank halves flat and in plane with each other.

Now that the horizontal plane is controlled I add a couple of other clamps to restrict vertical shifting while pressure is applied.  These K-bodys are tightened up at this point.

A spot check to see that most things are lined up pretty well.  Remember that in the real world I have glue all over these things and the clock is ticking.  It is relatively low-stress as far as glue ups go as long as things go well during a couple of dry runs.  Apply pressure on the quick grip clamps to bring things towards full closure.

Everything looking good?  Good.

Apply pressure using the more powerful clamps and look for good squeeze out EVERYWHERE.  I did this as a dry run because although the glue up is not a "hair on fire" activity, you do need to keep things moving.  Stopping to take pics would not be an option.  Now you will have to excuse me while I go try to so this for real.

OK, that went pretty well.

The only place I will knock off points is where I forgot to put tape on 3 of the clamp bars where they contacted the glue.

It will be funny to watch and see if I catch this on the next three inlays.

 

[treeslayer]

Great way to keep the 2 halves aligned @gee-dub I’m stealing that, I was using clamps on the diagonal to keep them aligned, not the easiest or best way. Great job explaining your process, thanks for posting 

[Coop]

I’ve made several of these in the same form and fashion but without the use of the cauls. When glueing mine up, they had a tendency to slip a bit from end to end. That was corrected in my cross cut sled after the glue dried. With your cauls, not only does it keep all of the pieces on the same plane but also prevents that slippage. Great idea! 

[gee-dub]

I use an inexpensive BORG pull saw to cut through glue-ups and other nasty stuff.

I had a thought . . . this sometimes leads to disaster . . . I used a bit of resaw spoil as a depth guide and OMT'd the excess inlay width off.

I took after what was left with a No 5 and a card scraper.  Things don't have to be perfect here.  Just good enough to allow me to route the next groove.

At this point all forward progress ceased . . . but I have an excuse. One of my grandsons wanted to help clean up; he's three today.

He felt the most effective route to the area to clean up was 'around and through'.

Once the floor was clean there was nothing left to do but clean up himself.

I'll try to get the second inlay laid in before dinner.

[treeslayer]

That’s a great helper you have there !

[gee-dub]

Thanks treeslayer ;-)

I swap out the 1/2" spiral for a 3/8" spiral.

This will match the dimension of the cherry stacked lamination.

The offset is a bit different but I just do this by eye. My accidental measurements just add a degree of randomness to the inlay waves.

Rinse and Repeat.

Till tomorrow . . .

[Chet]

On 7/18/2022 at 2:23 PM, gee-dub said:

He felt the most effective route to the area to clean up was 'around and through'.

Hey Glenn, everybody has their own technique for a given task. If it works, it works. 

[gee-dub]

On 7/18/2022 at 4:32 PM, Chet said:

Hey Glenn, everybody has their own technique for a given task. If it works, it works. 

Amen to that. 

[gee-dub]

I normally don't accept changing horses in the middle of a stream from anyone but, all LOML wanted was some purple heart instead of walnut for the narrow stripe.  I bring some purple heart down from the racks, jigsaw a section out of it and resaw it into strips.

You can see it next to the walnut here.

The OMT worked well for cutting off the bulk of the excess strips last time so I did that again.

The process is the same.  I am doing a 1/4" slot this time.  Remember the inlay strips thickness needs to match the slot width you remove.

Just in case it helps someone through the process of glue up . . . After setting up the clamping jig as show earlier in this thread I roll the strips.

Then I roll the edges of the blank.

I lay the blank halves into the rig, lay in the inlay strips and do the clamping ballet.

Next up, routing the juice groove, adding some arcs, profile treatment and the grips.

[wtnhighlander]

Glenn, do you turn much? That glue-up apparatus and process could help make some really wild turning blanks...

[gee-dub]

During the intermission I did a short how-to on the flexible sanding block. 

[gee-dub]

On 7/19/2022 at 4:29 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Glenn, do you turn much? That glue-up apparatus and process could help make some really wild turning blanks...

Funny you should ask. I inherited a lathe from dad but, my to do list is pretty long…

[gee-dub]

Squared up and ready for the juice groove.

I use red pencil and a drawing bow to layout the curved sides.

I will route the juice groove before cutting the arcs. This gives me a straight reference edge to work from. I use a Trend Vari-Jig for this. There are variations of this type of rig and other ways of doing this. For those not familiar, this jig is designed to let you template route squares or rectangles in the middle of panels.

I use it like so. I find using spring clamps makes setting up to the layout lines easier.

I made some white oak "t-nuts" that allow me to use holddowns from below.

Thank goodness this doesn't make a mess.

Juice groove.

I now cut the arcs at the bandsaw.

And clean these up at the edge sander.

I will do the edge profiles and grips tomorrow; time for dinner.

[pkinneb]

Looks awesome!!

[Coop]

What is the final thickness? 

[gee-dub]

On 7/20/2022 at 8:22 PM, Coop said:

What is the final thickness? 

About 1 1/8 inch.

[Coop]

Glenn, is the Trend Vari-Jig self squaring? 

[gee-dub]

On 7/20/2022 at 8:47 PM, Coop said:

Glenn, is the Trend Vari-Jig self squaring? 

No. There is a fair amount of wiggle room in the connection points but they do have basically square contact points. They do lock down solidly. IIRC the instruction recommend a square be applied to assure alignment.  I believe the original intention of the jig is sink cutouts or other square-ish cutouts in panels.

[gee-dub]

I have a drawer where I keep larger router bits. These are most often used for only part of their profile.


That will be the case for this large roundover. I use the upper part of the profile from both sides of the board.


Despite not messing up on the cuts for drum sander paper for some time I still mark it, cut one end, feed it, and double check.  Should I seek help???


You can see the resulting profile here.  I card scrape the edges and any trouble spots. One thing about maple is that it really pops when the oil hits. This means any errant machine marks really jump out.


Once the board has been used a couple of times this is all moot but I like to start things out looking good.


Here's the finger grip.  The conglomeration on the router table is a piece of ply with a matching arc cut into it and a relief for the bit to recess into.  I clamp a stop at each end, ease the material into the bit at one stop and quickly move to the other stop.  I will post a last pic once the oil is on.

[Tom King]

I'm sure that's the nicest cutting board I've ever seen !!