Here we go. Roubo from scratch


Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Good advise.  I had a 2" straight bit grab into r oak on me about 1.5" deep and I'm pretty sure I soiled my unders with some left over for a soggy sock.

Get yourself an OF2200, it will make hand routing much more awesomer and with much less poop in your pants.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Eric. said:

let your bit start to wander...yeah, get out the wet wipes.

Yup. When I caught,  wad one of my first projects,  I thought 1/2" at a time WAS a small bite. .

Just now, shaneymack said:

Sure man, whatever keeps the poop outta yer pants!!

I can't even find space for my miter saw,  doubt a mill is in the cards.  And I can't get the OF2200 because once I do,  they will start offering the limited edition systainer..gotta wait for it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get yourself an OF2200, it will make hand routing much more awesomer and with much less poop in your pants.....

More power is good but also doesn't mean you should take bigger bites, because if it does bite, it's going to be bigger!

I wasnt referring to the power at all. The stability and ergonomics.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Whiteside RU2500 bit as well, and I used it recently on a project to cut 2"+ deep mortises.  Among the other problems/precautions mentioned, one problem I ran into with my DW618 router was that even with the bit bottomed out in the collet, and the router motor fully seated in the plunge base, the bit extended past the base of the router by about 0.5".  The only thing I could think of was to not have the router motor fully seated, and instead an inch or two higher, then adjust the clamp mechanism on the plunge base to grip tighter.  Only then was I able to get enough head room to start with the bit above the work piece and plunge into the cut.  I would then reseat the motor fully and finish all the way to final depth.

Is this a problem specific to the DW618, or are there other routers that have similar problems with longer router bits?  The only other solution I could think of for this problem was to have 2 router bits, 1 shorter to start the mortise, then the longer one to get to depth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, nerdbot said:

I have the Whiteside RU2500 bit as well, and I used it recently on a project to cut 2"+ deep mortises.  Among the other problems/precautions mentioned, one problem I ran into with my DW618 router was that even with the bit bottomed out in the collet, and the router motor fully seated in the plunge base, the bit extended past the base of the router by about 0.5".  The only thing I could think of was to not have the router motor fully seated, and instead an inch or two higher, then adjust the clamp mechanism on the plunge base to grip tighter.  Only then was I able to get enough head room to start with the bit above the work piece and plunge into the cut.  I would then reseat the motor fully and finish all the way to final depth.

Is this a problem specific to the DW618, or are there other routers that have similar problems with longer router bits?  The only other solution I could think of for this problem was to have 2 router bits, 1 shorter to start the mortise, then the longer one to get to depth.

Yup this was annoying, and was a problem for both of my handheld routers - the DW618 that you have and the Bosch 1617.  The deepest mortise that you have to route on the roubo is adjacent to an edge (the tail vise screw cavity), so it's not a big deal, you just start the router off the edge and plow it into the workpiece - you don't actually have to plunge.  But it makes it really annoying for getting the edge guide setting right.  The two router bit solution makes sense but is a bit wasteful.  I guess it's pick your poison here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bgreenb said:

Yup this was annoying, and was a problem for both of my handheld routers - the DW618 that you have and the Bosch 1617.  The deepest mortise that you have to route on the roubo is adjacent to an edge (the tail vise screw cavity), so it's not a big deal, you just start the router off the edge and plow it into the workpiece - you don't actually have to plunge.  But it makes it really annoying for getting the edge guide setting right.  The two router bit solution makes sense but is a bit wasteful.  I guess it's pick your poison here.

Well that's good to know that I wasn't completely crazy.  With the number of mortises I was cutting (a little over 40), having to switch bits for each one would've driven me insane.  And I don't (currently) have a 2nd 1/2" collet plunge router, so that wasn't an option either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, TIODS said:

Not to get too far off but, William Ng posted a cool way to do the condor tails..

 

That video bugged me. He demonstrated a jig he devised for Roubo benches and then turned a board on end on his table saw. What if you want a bench longer than twelve inches?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, C Shaffer said:

That video bugged me. He demonstrated a jig he devised for Roubo benches and then turned a board on end on his table saw. What if you want a bench longer than twelve inches?

I'm sure it's not the answer for everything but, as Ng says, there's more than one way to get things done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, TIODS said:

I'm sure it's not the answer for everything but, as Ng says, there's more than one way to get things done.

To be fair, it is the only part that bugged me. There was this guy who got his teeth kicked in recently for a table saw post because of long range watch potential leading to unsafe practice. I can just see someone stabbing their ceiling trying to figure this out with a long board. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, C Shaffer said:

To be fair, it is the only part that bugged me. There was this guy who got his teeth kicked in recently for a table saw post because of long range watch potential leading to unsafe practice. I can just see someone stabbing their ceiling trying to figure this out with a long board. 

But he didn't demo it with a long board so it's a mute point

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, C Shaffer said:

That video bugged me. He demonstrated a jig he devised for Roubo benches and then turned a board on end on his table saw. What if you want a bench longer than twelve inches?

You would obviously use your horizontal table saw or just a bearing guided bandsaw blade. . What else

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I am just sad the Kev and I aren't seeing the same thing. We usually seem to and I don't see how this differs. If you set a demo up for Roubo use, I think it needs a caveat if you grab a short board knowing that your potential newbies may not have that common sense experience. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

I guess I am just sad the Kev and I aren't seeing the same thing. We usually seem to and I don't see how this differs. If you set a demo up for Roubo use, I think it needs a caveat if you grab a short board knowing that your potential newbies may not have that common sense experience. 

Not sure he built his bench the same as Marc?  The demo showed a short board.  

Or, should I say benches as he built several of them.  I've never known Ng to do something unsafe at the table saw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of us cut our condor tails at the bandsaw.  You have to imagine that most newbies building a Roubo in this century will be using either Marc's guild build or at least Jameel's BC instructions...both of which demonstrate using the bandsaw for the tail cuts.

If someone has the chops to head into a Roubo build on their own, they're likely gonna have enough sense to not put a seven foot board vertically on the table saw. LOL

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

==>Most of us cut our condor tails at the bandsaw

or by hand...

But the point is well taken -- hopefully...  Unfortunately, there are some who may actually try... After all, "I saw it on the internet, so it's got to be true", right? :)

 

One other point: not slavishly following the talking heads (i.e. think for yourself)... I've seen numerous examples of techniques and workflows being demonstrated (or worse, taught), that the talking head doesn't use in real life, or worse, doesn't actually work... Remember, there is [almost] always an underlying agenda (read as revenue-related)...

For example, WTO is way too polite a forum for pillorying the early DVD's of Chris Schwarz, but head over to LJ or some of the UK forums and you'll really see some spleen...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, hhh said:

==>Most of us cut our condor tails at the bandsaw

or by hand...

But the point is well taken -- hopefully...  Unfortunately, there are some who may actually try... After all, "I saw it on the internet, so it's got to be true", right? :)

 

One other point: not slavishly following the talking heads (i.e. think for yourself)... I've seen numerous examples of techniques and workflows being demonstrated (or worse, taught), that the talking head doesn't use in real life, or worse, doesn't actually work... Remember, there is [almost] always an underlying agenda (read as revenue-related)...

For example, WTO is way too polite a forum for pillorying the early DVD's of Chris Schwarz, but head over to LJ or some of the UK forums and you'll really see some spleen...

This could be a separate thread, in fact I will start one.... Worst woodworking advice you ever got on the internet/magazines, etc.... Even on this forum quite a few people engage in the echo chamber effect.... there should be a rule about providing advice.... be clear if you have ever done it yourself or are just repeating something you have read....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

For those that have finished the BC build, how many sticks did it take you for the front slab and back slab? Keeping up with my snails pace on this so far ( life happens) I finally got most of the big boards cut down for the top. I cut them to 5" to give me some room for movement. As it happens, after processing, I only have 13 boards that are the wanted 96" or better. A lot of the bigger boards only yielded one board as  there was only one way to not end up with knots or defects in the 5" starting width. I have probably another 15,  9" wide boards at 86 " long so if I really need to, I can use them and shave two inches from the board. The sticks I ended up with are a thick 2" thick rough and fairly straight off the bat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 62 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422.3k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,778
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    walo47
    Newest Member
    walo47
    Joined