ChrisG-Canada Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 So my wife has me making some end-grain cutting boards and I need to route some sort of hand-hold in the sides and/or side/bottom edge. I like the look of the hand-hold that is recessed into the side/bottom edge better so I think that's what I want but I'm open to suggestions. I have a nice big router mounted in a table but I need buy a suitable bit. Any recommendations about a specific bit? I've looked at some panel raising bits but can't really find anything that looks ideal. My current router bit collection is primarily ½" shank Whiteside bits, if anyone cares, but I'm certainly open to other good brands for this application. And before someone suggests a shaper... I realize it would be ideal for this kind of task but that's not going to happen ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 look at Whitesides round nose/ core box bit with a bearing to ride a template (1/4" shank ) they are in the "Groove Profiling" category or the bowl and tray bits 1/4" and 1/2" shanks. In the " Form Tools " category. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Make a template out of mdf/ply attach with double sided tape and use a pattern bit. I did mine with a hand held router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 In the table, you can also use a bit with no bearing, just a fence and stop blocks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG-Canada Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks guys! The sad truth is that I received a box/tray bit in a delivery earlier this week but I never considered it for this task - until now. I think it will work perfectly. One more question - where can I find clear rubber "feet" for the boards? I'm thinking of type with a small recessed area so I could use a stainless screw. I can source plenty in black, white or gray but can't seem to find clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Clear door bumpers are peel and stick. Some of the bigger ones have a recess in the middle but no hole for a screw ( at least the ones I have seen ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I buy black rubber feet on amazon. I've tried peel and stick and it didn't last. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwalter5110 Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said: In the table, you can also use a bit with no bearing, just a fence and stop blocks. That is how I do mine. I use a 3/4 straight bit with the fence and stop blocks set up. Then I just round the corners using a file and sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheperd80 Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Make a template out of mdf/ply attach with double sided tape and use a pattern bit. I did mine with a hand held router. This is exactly what i did, works great just takes a minute to do the depth in a few passes. I strongly recommend scoring the edge of the board at the max depth of the relief with a marking guage or knife to eliminate tearout. . Also worth noting, with rubber feet the finger relief doesnt need to be very deep, and it looks nicer if its shallow. I think mine was about 5/16" deep which was plenty with the feet installed. The template i used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 You can use a dado set and the table saw find the center of the cutting board add a sacrificial fence to the saw fence, find the center of the dado set mark it on the SF lower the blade below the table align the the center mark on the cutting board with the center of blade mark clamp the cutting board to the fence start saw raise blade into the edge of cutting board wah la you have a hand hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I use a bearing guided 5/8 cove bit. Stop blocks on the fence and it works great. First plunge keeps the bearing about 1/16" off the board with a full plunge. Second run, bearing touches cleans it up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 The latest couple of end-grain boards I made have a 1/2" chamfer around the entire bottom edge. Makes it easy to pick up in any orientation. I don't use feet under the boards (so far). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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