rkrueger Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 There's someone selling a Powermatic 8" jointer Model 60, 72" infeed/outfeed for $1000 on craigslist. I happen to be in the market for a jointer, and an 8" would be wonderful, but I have no idea about these original models or what I should look out for, or if they're any good, is it a good price? "2HP 3 knife Powermatic Jointer Model 60 with 2 extra knife sets. 72" infeed outfeed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I don't know specifics about that particular model. One thing I don't like about what I see is that knob sticking up on the pivot point of the guard. I have one jointer with lever adjusters, and one with wheels. I like wheels better for fine adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Looks pretty clean. I think the 2 long handles means it has parallelogram adj. price is not too bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I just looked at the new ones: http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/60c-8-jointer-2hp-1ph-230v/1610084K Interesting that they did away with the lever on the outfeed table, and the infeed has a lever for fast adjustment, and then you can turn the handle for fine adjustment. I never understood any manufacturer putting a lever adjust on the outfeed table. Both of mine are wedge beds, including the one with the levers. I don't have a thing against wedge beds, and have no need to pay a premium for parallel beds. I'm pretty sure that one is a wedge bed. Just me personally, but I would pass on the levers, and that knob worries me too. I see they did away with that knob on the newest one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkrueger Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Tell me about the issue with the knob. I'm new to woodworking and never owned a jointer before. Serial number : 8561181 This would indicate it was manufactured in 85? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have levers on my 6" powermatic and they don't bother me in the least. As far as the knob, I wonder if that is original hardware? That knob may get in the way slightly, but certainly not a deal breaker. It looks to be pretty well kept and for a PM 8" jointer that isn't a bad price at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I just don't want my hand bumping into anything right before the cutterhead. I don't know that I would bump it, but having used jointers with smooth topped guards for 50 years, I wouldn't be comfortable with the possibility. Levers are personal preference. I've never moved the outfeed table on the jointer I have with levers. The only time I ever have dropped an outfeed table is when the knives are starting to dull, and trying to finish up a job. In that case, the outfeed table might need to be dropped one or two thousandths. I'm not confident that I can do that with a lever, but no problem at all with a hand wheel. I'm sure that's why they took the lever off the outfeed table on the new one. I would be real comfortable with any Powermatic tool manufacturered in 1985, but do see if you can find something about the fence adjustment. In the back of my mind, I remember there were some complaints about repeating adjustments on some Powermatic jointers, but it's been so long ago that I don't remember exactly which one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have a knob just like that on my 20 year old grizzly and it loosens or tightens the tension of the spring on the guard itself. It is outboard of the bed itself and I haven't had an issue with hitting it. Of course I will now that Tom has pointed it out. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkrueger Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I found a copy of the manual Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 15 minutes ago, rkrueger said: Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool? Expensive way- Cart with pneumatic wheels, gantry, forklift, pallet jack, column winch, comalongs, johnson bars, oak rollers, chain hoist and donkey. Cheap way- Beer and friends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 14 minutes ago, rkrueger said: Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool? With an 800 pound gorilla. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 14 minutes ago, rkrueger said: I found a copy of the manual Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool? Two friendly gorillas and a case of beer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_oaVD4NzYo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 On a serious note, when I moved my jointer it was just my 65 year old dad and I. The jointer is 500 pounds. I unbolted the base from the top, backed my dad's truck up to the jointer and picked the top up about an inch right to the bed and then slowly moved it in 5 or so inches at a time. The base was light (in comparison) that I moved it solo. Taking the jointer off the truck I backed the truck up to my shop, and slid the jointer on to the base and bolted it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 2 hours ago, wdwerker said: Looks pretty clean. I think the 2 long handles means it has parallelogram adj. price is not too bad I think that is he opposite, right? That appears to be a sliding dovetail/wedge. I would consider a parallelogram model over that however. https://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Jointer-with-Parallelogram-Beds/G0490 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 20 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said: On a serious note, when I moved my jointer it was just my 65 year old dad and I. The jointer is 500 pounds. I unbolted the base from the top, backed my dad's truck up to the jointer and picked the top up about an inch right to the bed and then slowly moved it in 5 or so inches at a time. The base was light (in comparison) that I moved it solo. Taking the jointer off the truck I backed the truck up to my shop, and slid the jointer on to the base and bolted it back together. I'd like to see a video of that one! I've never seen a video of someone moving a jointer. Could you use a hand truck as long as you don't have to move it through any doorways? Would you be able to use a pallet jack to move a jointer with the beds long ways in front of you to get through doorways? Loading it onto a trailer is no problem as long as there's a ramp. Has anyone tried moving a table saw with just a hand truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkrueger Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 17 minutes ago, BobInAustin said: I think that is he opposite, right? That appears to be a sliding dovetail/wedge. I would consider a parallelogram model over that however. https://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Jointer-with-Parallelogram-Beds/G0490 So for another $150 I could get brand new, an extra HP, and delivered to my house? How is the quality on Grizzly jointers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Just now, rkrueger said: So for another $150 I could get brand new, an extra HP, and delivered to my house? How is the quality on Grizzly jointers? ask @Eric. and @Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 1 minute ago, rkrueger said: So for another $150 I could get brand new, an extra HP, and delivered to my house? How is the quality on Grizzly jointers? I think you'll find that this is going down the Ford vs. Chevy area. Clearly a lot of fine woodworkers use Grizzly. Seen Matt's shop? Also you'll find people that hate them. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 A standard hand truck won't work, the bottom of the cabinet is open, if there is any shift in weight, the blade of the handtruck will go into the cabinet and the jointer will tip forward and likely fall on the front of it. I've moved an ungodly amount of heavy tools from craigslist. Recently a 700 pound bandsaw. 3 of us stood it up from it's spine and onto the floor and then using the power of leverage managed to get it up on the lip into my garage so I could wheel it around. It's like Archimedes said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 2 hours ago, rkrueger said: I found a copy of the manual Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool? I moved bigger by taking off the belt and unbolting from the stand. The tool slid right into my van and the cabinet was not heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 52 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said: A standard hand truck won't work, the bottom of the cabinet is open, if there is any shift in weight, the blade of the handtruck will go into the cabinet and the jointer will tip forward and likely fall on the front of it. I've moved an ungodly amount of heavy tools from craigslist. Recently a 700 pound bandsaw. 3 of us stood it up from it's spine and onto the floor and then using the power of leverage managed to get it up on the lip into my garage so I could wheel it around. It's like Archimedes said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world" I think I'm still on topic since rkrueger is also asking how to move a jointer.... Could you tip one end of the saw just a enough to slide a piece of 3/4 plywood underneath the base? That should provide good support for a hand truck to work. I don't have 3 friends to help me move heavy equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Look at how wide it is. You would need a huge amount of space to hand truck this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 5 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: I moved bigger by taking off the belt and unbolting from the stand. The tool slid right into my van and the cabinet was not heavy. Did you lift it from the ground by yourself and into the van? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 A standard hand truck won't work, the bottom of the cabinet is open, if there is any shift in weight, the blade of the handtruck will go into the cabinet and the jointer will tip forward and likely fall on the front of it. I've moved an ungodly amount of heavy tools from craigslist. Recently a 700 pound bandsaw. 3 of us stood it up from it's spine and onto the floor and then using the power of leverage managed to get it up on the lip into my garage so I could wheel it around. It's like Archimedes said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world" I think I'm still on topic since rkrueger is also asking how to move a jointer.... Could you tip one end of the saw just a enough to slide a piece of 3/4 plywood underneath the base? That should provide good support for a hand truck to work. I don't have 3 friends to help me move heavy equipment. You only need one, and a little bit of ingenuity. If you're using a hand truck make sure it's got a wide wheel base and ratcheting strap to hold it to the back frame. An appliance hand truck will work if attached right. Standard hand trucks may not be rated for the amount of weight, and the narrow wheel base will be a huge tip problem, unless you have someone that will act as your "tip compensation mechanism" Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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