Tapered or Not


prov163

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I'm working on teaching myself to hand cut dovetails. I've been using my LN tapered carcass saw so my results aren't as good as I hoped by now. I attribute that in part to using the wrong tool for the task. So I am getting ready to purchase a LN dovetail saw. I am trying to decide whether to buy the regular or tapered.  

I always get great advice here. Do any of you have experience using both?

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You need to buy a dovetail saw as the tooth form is rip. 

Your carcass saw most likely is a crosscut saw and isn't designed for dovetails. The taper is designed to enable you to steer the cut in the initial stages of the cut. Essentially you use short strokes at the narrow end, twisting the plate accordingly, to get you back on course then use the entire plate to do the cut. Disston created this way back in the past with their panel saws. Look at the hump backed ones that a lot of manufacturers produce nowadays including LN. That hump does have a purpose.

I see from the specs that they both LN saws have a 3 thou set. That might be too much for a DT saw as mine have little if any set (probably 1.5 thou). I use a sheet of newspaper on either side of the plate as shimming material, leaving the teeth protruding and squeeze the teeth in a machinists vise. This pushes the teeth back in and gives less set. The paper is not appreciably compressible and this is a simple task to do.

When cutting dovetails whether tails first or pins first try to use a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil to transfer the cuts onto the mating parts. Then cut in the waste side so you leave the pencil line intact.. Keep the saw square, watch your elbow so it acts like a pendulum and use a hard wood to practice on.

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I've just remembered where I learnt the squeezing method except I just use 1.5 thou regular newspaper. Mike Wenzloff also wraps the teeth as well letting the teeth perforate the paper but I just leave the teeth protruding with the paper under the gullet - same results.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/get-a-consistent-set-on-your-saw-with-paper

 

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16 hours ago, prov163 said:

I'm working on teaching myself to hand cut dovetails. I've been using my LN tapered carcass saw so my results aren't as good as I hoped by now. I attribute that in part to using the wrong tool for the task. So I am getting ready to purchase a LN dovetail saw. I am trying to decide whether to buy the regular or tapered.  

I always get great advice here. Do any of you have experience using both?

I really doubt that it is the saw. 

There is no difference in the results of a tapered vs non-tapered saw. I am inclined to view tapered saws as a fashion design. Very few vintage saws were originally made with taper. Most with taper are the result of plates that slipped in their backs.

If the teeth have too much set (unlikely with LN, but not impossible), the kerf will be rougher, but that will not affect accuracy.

It is much more likely to be your technique. Post pictures of your results for critique. 

Regards from Perth

Derek

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On September 11, 2016 at 11:23 PM, TerryMcK said:

I've just remembered where I learnt the squeezing method except I just use 1.5 thou regular newspaper. Mike Wenzloff also wraps the teeth as well letting the teeth perforate the paper but I just leave the teeth protruding with the paper under the gullet - same results.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/get-a-consistent-set-on-your-saw-with-paper

 

On September 11, 2016 at 11:23 PM, TerryMcK said:

I have three different Dt saws my favorite is from Mike W.

Ive sharpened it several time but it's not nearly as nice as when I first got it.I should send it back because what he does I can't.

It one of my least favorite woodworking tasks sharpening my hand saws .

To the op LN makes nice saws you just can't go wrong.

Aj

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I have been using Japanese saws for over 20 years.  Recently I saw a great deal on two LN saws, a rip and cc for joinery.  Wow!  These saws are great.  For me the learning curve was about 15 practice cuts to a knife line.  I hardly use the Japanese  saws at all any more and marvel at the performance of these LN saws everytime I use them.

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Since we are discussing dovetail saws, has anyone tried out the Veritas saw? Veritas is not a name I associate with cheap or low quality, are the LN and Rob Cosman really a big step up to justify the much higher prices (2x and 4x more respectively) for a hobbyist, or is this more like going from a 98/100 up to a 99/100?

$59 for the Veritas

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/153370/veritas-standard-dovetail-saw-14-tpi.aspx

$125 for the LN

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/dovetail-saws-dovetail-saw

$250 for the Rob Cosman

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/150090/rob-cosmans-black-resin-hand-saw-dovetail.aspx

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I have the Veritas carcass and dovetail saws. I like them both very much. I have yet to cut dovetails with it as it's fairly new but I don't see myself needing more than that. When i was a young fella full a piss an' vinegar, I cut my dovetails with a pax gents saw. If I could make that pos work, I'm sure the Veritas will be just fine lol.

I couldn't spend the money on a Rob Cosman saw because I don't feel like i will ever cut enough dovetails by hand to justify that cost.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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I thought I would mention for anyone in Canada near a Lee Valley store wanting to try the Veritas saws, they're having free seminars where you can try all of their saws and accessories on Saturday. I called and signed up for one, since I was thinking of picking up a couple of the saws soon anyway.

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He cuts dovetails fast.  I don't have that much respect for that one accomplishment.  I've never seen him build furniture, just one quarter of a drawer over and over again.  Maybe I missed it.

He's way too cocky for my taste and needs to get over himself and his Blagojevich haircut.  And his saws have plastic handles.

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I'm sure Cosman is a nice guy but I've tried watching him and, for me, he comes off like the Ron Popeil of dovetails.  I'm not doubting Cosman's abilities and he is successful but I'm in Eric's camp on this one.  On the other hand I just found out Frank Klausz lives less than 2 hours from good friends of mine and if I thought for a minute he'd teach me to cut dovetails in person, I'd make the trip :)

As for the Blagojevich/Cosman comparison, I'm still awed by how much Eric looks like Krenov.  His avatar is almost a spitting image.

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I met him at a WW show, probably at least 15 years ago & at the time he was the Lie Nielsen Canadian distributor. Watched his planing & sharpening & dovetail demos which was all very impressive.

But man, what an opinionated know-it-all! When I tried to buy a rabbit block plane (because I already had a decent block plane) he just about wouldn't sell it to me. Wanted me to buy the standard block plane. I prevailed.

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Since we are discussing dovetail saws, has anyone tried out the Veritas saw? Veritas is not a name I associate with cheap or low quality, are the LN and Rob Cosman really a big step up to justify the much higher prices (2x and 4x more respectively) for a hobbyist, or is this more like going from a 98/100 up to a 99/100?

$59 for the Veritas

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/153370/veritas-standard-dovetail-saw-14-tpi.aspx

$125 for the LN

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/dovetail-saws-dovetail-saw

$250 for the Rob Cosman

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/150090/rob-cosmans-black-resin-hand-saw-dovetail.aspx

I have the veritas, it works great. I'm sure the others are great too, but I went veritas because I'd the price, and I haven't regretted it so far. To be clear, I don't advocate always going cheap, but when Lee valley is the cheaper option, I trust them enough to save a few bucks.

Also, I have seen snippets of cosmans furniture on his YouTube channel, it is high quality. Check it out if you're doubtful of his ability beyond just dovetails.

Nothing groundbreaking AFAIK, but he's legit.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

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