Planer Stand for Dewalt 735


bushwacked

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Waiting on casters and slides. They will arrive while I'm out of town on business next week.

Then also need to make the drawers but going to wait on the slides so I can install and double check the 1/2 measurement the site says.

Then drawer faces too.

I'm not sure about adding A face frame to it with drawers I am not sure how that would work out

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9 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

Up next ...

Waiting on casters and slides. They will arrive while I'm out of town on business next week.

Then also need to make the drawers but going to wait on the slides so I can install and double check the 1/2 measurement the site says.

Then drawer faces too.

I'm not sure about adding A face frame to it with drawers I am not sure how that would work out

If those are the same glides that you showed me, just measure your inside opening and subtract an inch..  Rock on..  

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If those are the same glides that you showed me, just measure your inside opening and subtract an inch..  Rock on..  

Yes they are. Ok cool I will do that tomorrow. I wasn't sure how accurate those were so I didn't want to make boxes and come to find out they were just a little bigger or smaller than what the site said.

Now just gotta watch some videos on boxes. Not sure what's the easiest way to connect the bottoms. My 2nd sheet of plywood is 1/2" and something called sande plywood or something like that from HD. Figured I'd save a little money over the purebond for the drawers. Was thinking just cut to size and glue/screw on??

I have shop furniture with face frames and without.  There are two pluses to not using face frames.  You don't have to make a face frame and your drawers can each be deeper with out the face frame.

Talked me into no face frame as of now haha.

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2 hours ago, bushwacked said:

Was thinking just cut to size and glue/screw on??

 

 

I'm all for utility in shop furniture but also into not missing an opportunity to do something cool that you've never done before. 

Pinned rabbeted boxes are super easy, self squaring, and can look sweet if you use a contrasting pin or metal.

Wanna test how nice you can make some half blinds when you want to? already a DT God? assemble them without glue and see how they do!

Already got a box joint jig for 1/2" material?  no?  cool. whip one out. joint them  box..

Its your stand and only a stand,  but you're going to be looking at it for the foreseeable future.  if it's worth doing,  it's worth overdoing.

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9 hours ago, bushwacked said:

Now just gotta watch some videos on boxes. Not sure what's the easiest way to connect the bottoms. My 2nd sheet of plywood is 1/2" and something called sande plywood or something like that from HD. Figured I'd save a little money over the purebond for the drawers. Was thinking just cut to size and glue/screw on??

 

 

Simple is best..  I'd come up 1/4 from the bottom and cut a groove all the way around.  Slide in the bottom and be done.

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2 hours ago, TIODS said:

Simple is best..  I'd come up 1/4 from the bottom and cut a groove all the way around.  Slide in the bottom and be done.

I was thinking that ... I just wasnt sure how a normal tablesaw blade would do with that since it is not flat.

I dont have the undersized plywood router bits nor a 1/4" flush trim bit to sneak up on it ... maybe it is time to get one ... 

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You don't need a flat blade for that.  You can also make multiple passes with a single blade and just sneak up on the fit as well..  Just cut the first groove in all your parts, adjust your fence, then make the next cut..  Rinse and repeat until you get the fit you want.

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I find "undersize" bits to be only partially useful.  A lot of plywood is irregular in thickness even across a single sheet.  For most plywood dados I use a 3/8" bit and a dado jig to set the actual width.  For 1/4" stuff I have an undersized bit that fits 1/4" BB ply most of the time and other plywood some of the time ;-)

Your 22" dimension gives you good support at the outer edges of the machine so I don't know that you need any additional support as what might come from a structural face frame.  As mentioned this does allow you to make your drawers wider ;-)

TS drawers (19).jpg

I have found a greater number of shallower drawers meets my needs better than a deep bin.  However, you will judge your drawers by what you plan to put in them.

Overlay false fronts have served me well on shop cabs.  They hide almost everything and can be made from what you have on hand.  The stress on this little guy from the fixture that mounts on top made me opt for rabbeted supporting pieces at the top and bottom of the drawer opening.

de-pelter-quattro  (17).jpg

de-pelter-quattro  (18).jpg

They can also be changed out and make an old piece look like new if that suits you.  I have also used false fronts that still inset a bit just for a different look.

TS drawers (34).jpg

As Brendon_t mentions, shop cabs are a great time to experiment with techniques and details.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, TIODS said:

You don't need a flat blade for that.  You can also make multiple passes with a single blade and just sneak up on the fit as well..  Just cut the first groove in all your parts, adjust your fence, then make the next cut..  Rinse and repeat until you get the fit you want.

ok, I was thinking with it not being flat it would screw up the glue up and not be all that strong. I will give that a go then.

17 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

I find "undersize" bits to be only partially useful.  A lot of plywood is irregular in thickness even across a single sheet.  For most plywood dados I use a 3/8" bit and a dado jig to set the actual width.  For 1/4" stuff I have an undersized bit that fits 1/4" BB ply most of the time and other plywood some of the time ;-)

oh interesting ... I figured they were a little better than that on the sizing.

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3 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

ok, I was thinking with it not being flat it would screw up the glue up and not be all that strong. I will give that a go then.

 

Encased drawer bottoms like that can float and don't need glue.  There's also no need to cut your grooves overly deep.

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