Unisaw Inspection


Wimayo

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I am contemplating going to look at a Unisaw that is for sale. I'm in the process of getting information such as age and condition. So, I can't tell you too much about it except to say the the one picture I''ve seen looks good. The cabinet appears to be rust free with the original faded paint. The CI top has some surface rust. I don't know much about them, but it appears to be an older model. I won't know how old until I get a model number. For now, can someone help me with a list of the things I need to check if I go look at it. Also, what faults might I overlook if the price is good enough. What tools, if any, should I take with me. I'm assuming that it is runnable.

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Hopefully it has an aftermarket fence.   Check the belts, there is 3 of them.  You might take a sharp blade and some wood to try it out. If you know how to check the arbor for run out with a dial indicator take one with you.  A 3 phase machine probably isn't worth the cost & effort to swap the motor or get a phase converter.

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My first cabinet saw was a 1950 unisaw which I than rebuilt.

There is a lot of things to look at which is specific to the model. Post the picture and we can tell you more. 

If it's a pre-70s model it will need the original motor in order to get the full range of blade height and tilt without cutting a large hole in the cabinet. However most of those older motors are 1hp or less or 1.5hp and 3phase. I would not buy a 3phase machine unless you are already familiar with 3phase power. 

A little rust on the table is not a big deal and will clean up in under 10 minutes with a Razer blade and a green scotch bright pad and some wd-40. 

I wouldn't worry about the belts either since a new set is pretty cheap. The real concern would be if the arbor is shot or if any of the internal castings are cracked. The worm screws will be rusty, that is not a problem. If it has the original "jet lock" style fence with rounded rails you will likely want to replace that. A new fence will run you at least 300$ for an off brand that is quality. 

Post a picture and I can give you more specific information.

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That is a nice looking saw! My guess is its from the 50s. My saw from 1950 had the same switch and dust door. It also clearly has the cast iron plinth. Its hard to make out in the picture (its at the very top of the frame) but it appears to have the original splitter as well which you should definitely hold onto.

A lot of folks will replace the original 1hp (or 3/4hp) motor on these saws with a newer and larger unisaw motor. The problem with this is that the newer motors will not fit into the gosh darn cabinet and still be able to put the blade over to 45 degrees and extend it up more then an inch above the table. The solution is to cut the crap out of the cabinet (that side of the cabinet is not visible in this picture). So be on the look out for that. Also be aware that if it has the original "bullet" motor it will likely top out at 1hp which is fine for many cuts but will struggle with 8/4 stock on a single pass. It means you may have to make multiple passes with thicker hardwoods. Not the end but definitely something to consider.

I honestly was never bothered by my 1950 unisaw being right tilt. It just meant I had to make angled cuts on the other side of the blade and I had less fence to work with there unless I made modifications to my fence system. If you plan to make a lot of angled cuts on very wide pieces your mileage may vary.

What I do not see anywhere is a fence. Be aware that this saw might not come with one and you will NEED to buy one of your own. If that is the case it will definitely negatively impact the saws value. It will cost you every bit of 300 dollars to buy a new and decent fence. Without any fence and assuming at least a 1hp motor I would not pay more then 300 dollars for this saw and 250 would be better. If he has a fence but it is the older style jetlock fence then I would go up to 400. If he has a t square style fence and rails in good condition I would say this saw could be worth up to 500 assuming its in otherwise great condition and has at least a 1hp motor. 

 

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Keep looking.  Here's mine.  It gets moved around with a front end loader.  I got the saw for next to nothing, and don't want to subject an expensive one to the treatment that this one tolerates.  It does good work, but I wouldn't recommend this one, or older to a first time saw user.

post-14184-0-49507900-1413659084_thumb.jpg

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I'm told it has a fence with it, but not sure whether or not it is original. Owner also says it has a 3 hp motor. Can't confirm yet. We haven't talked price. I appreciate your opinions on value.

I'm not crazy about a right hand tilt, but I assume you get used to it. And, I don't do a lot of angled cuts. Are there any functional problems with a right tilt?

I'm not a first time TS user. I currently have a Delta contractor's saw with a Biesemeyer fence that works pretty well. I can do mechanical work and I'm not concerned about doing necessary repairs. My only concern is having to replace parts or do repairs that are so expensive as to make the purchase not worthwihle. I would probably have to break it down as much as possible to get it loaded and transported anyway. I don't lift stuff as well as I used to.

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I just don't like running something with the fence on the left side of the blade.  If you are sawing an important beveled piece, and it lifts at all, with the left tilt, the piece is not ruined, it's just a little wider there, and can be reworked.  With the right tilt, and the finished face down, it cannot lift the slightest little bit, or the piece is ruined.  

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3 hp should be 220/240 v. Just make sure its single phase.  Right hand tilt isn't the end of the world. In the last 30 years there has only been a handful of times I really wished for a left tilt. I figured out how to make it work.

My 3 hp Unisaw handles 8/4 stock with ease. My 1 1/2 hp 120 v Unisaw does ok on ripping 8/4 when I use a thin kerf blade. 

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If it is actually a 3hp saw then there is no possibility that it is a motor original to the saw. Which means the cabinet is cut or you will not get a true 45 degree angle with the blade extended. 

There is no difference between a right tilt and left tilt saw as far as the work piece is concerned so long as you cut the wood on the opposite side of the blade tilt. Meaning if you have a left tilt and are making a cut with the blade  tilted 45 degrees than you put the wood on the right side of the blade. If you have a right tilt then the opposite. You do this so your blade does not pinch the work piece against the fence and thus create a kickback danger. Because most fence systems have shorter rails to the left of the blade, most right tilt saws have limited capacity for angled cuts. This is the only disadvantage to right tilt saws. Obviously when making cuts with the blade at 90 degrees there is no difference at all.

So things to look for, if the cabinet is cut you will want to see if the cut was neatly done. If not cut bring a triangle with you so you can test the angle of blade change and you will be able to see if the saw is capable of 45 degree cuts. Frankly I would not buy a saw incapable of making a 45 degree cut.

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I got a little more info:

According to owwm.org, the saw is a 1952 model.

The motor plate is difficult to read, but I think it says:

rpm=1725
type=SR
volts=115/230
cat=NN-8518010 CCW
HP=1 (?)
frame=180
amps=11.8/5.9 (?)
cyc=60
single phase

I believe it is telling me that it is a 1 hp motor, but on the basis of amperage, it appears to indicate 1.8 hp. If it was a 5 hp I don't think it would run on 115 volts.

SNtag.jpg

unisaw.jpg

motortag.jpg

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I have a newer unisaw, but i wouldnt be turned off by the older bullet motor models. It's less power, but ive heard repeatedly that the motors punched above their weight class. 1.5-2hp shouldnt be a problem with anything <1". It is when you get into 1.5-2.5" hardwood that a 1.5hp saw starts to suck. Feed rate and blade choice mitigate that to an extent. With that said, it still has well designed and built internals compared to new 1.5hp class saws. Calibrating cabinet saws is way easier, and they hold their settings much much better. A precise saw is better than a powerful saw. 

 

Fence or no fence, it still needs replaced. I wouldnt want to use the older jetlock style. Then, take into account you will need to tend to a lot of deferred maintenance, that isnt particularly expensive, but it does consume time. 100% do the basics of replacing bearings, belts, and lubing all internal parts. I would probably think to replace that switch too. Finally, after all of this work with a modern fence, you will have a saw that commands about $600-700 on the used market. Keep that in mind, and explain that to the seller if they balk at your offer of $150-200--which, btw, is what i suggest you spend on that saw. As others mentioned, a new fence is $300+, $50 plus 2+/- hours to replace belts and bearings, and finally a new magnetic switch is $75-100 and maybe 30 mins to wire. Add it all up plus your labor, and you break even on the proposition. However, you will have a solid performing saw at the end of it all that you can always sell to recoup your costs. 

 

Where are you? Search for used fences near you. There is a biesemeyer with 52" rails in my area for $250. Stuff like that will sweeten the deal for you at $150-200. 

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22 minutes ago, drzaius said:

If the motor were 100% efficient it would be 1.8HP, but with losses it would be closer to 1.5HP or a little less.

A good modern motor is about 75% efficient if it's that old and rated at 11.8 amps it probably is around 1hp. This would indicate a 55% efficiency which it's probably more than that but the motor most defiantly is not 1.8 hp.

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10 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

A good modern motor is about 75% efficient if it's that old and rated at 11.8 amps it probably is around 1hp.

Yeh. The motor plate appears to say 1 hp.

This looks like a nice old machine with good potential. However, I haven't convinced myself that, after the effort to get it here and refurbish it, I will have a significantly better saw than what I have now; even with the good feeling of having good old American iron.

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Its actually pretty easy to move these saws. You tilt them up into your truck/suv. More then a few older style unisaws have been moved in hatchbacks. I moved mine in a Subaru Forester. Basically you just take a moving blanket (or a blanket you don't care about) drape it over the bumper and then tilt the saw up into your car using the bumper as your pivot point. Then slide the blanket/saw back into your vehicle. Piece of cake really. You may want to remove the motor and cut the power line to move the saw, or you can block the motor up with some wood, lower it down onto the wood/cushions and move it in place. Up to you.

It is a 1hp motor no doubt about that. Its not a capacitor motor but uses brushes so a bit different compared to modern saw motors. What you gain over your current saw is in the trunions of the internals. Your current saw will have pot metal trunions that weigh about 1lbs. The unisaw has giant cast iron trunions that weigh about 20 lbs. Folks will say you get smoother cuts with less overall vibration. Frankly I don't know about that. I had a ridgid contractors saws before I got my unisaw and they both cut wood just fine. The unisaw is prettier though ;P

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