Mark J Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I like the idea of the epoxy foot pads, but I wonder how you insure the table will sit flat? One pour could be a little more than another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 I’ve been lucky so far with epoxy. I try and get the height of the blue tape the same above the leg when applying it. I gradually add the epoxy to the leg with an acid brush. Should one leg be off, it can be sanded easily with an 80 grit sanding block. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 2 hours ago, Mark J said: I like the idea of the epoxy foot pads, but I wonder how you insure the table will sit flat? One pour could be a little more than another. You'd level it the same way as without the epoxy feet. I have to level most of the proejcts i complete as they are usually off by 1/32" or so. There is a good table saw trick for leveling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Did Pekovich's table have a shelf or is the shelf an addition by you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 It was something I added. Had it been for in the house, I would have not done so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Coming along nicely Coop! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coop Posted November 11, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 With the glue dry and out of the clamps, I trimmed the top of the legs to match the curves of the top rails. Mr. Pekovich’s article uses three screws per support rail to attach the top. With his being in a climate controlled environment, this may be well and good for wood movement. As mine will outside, I decided on one screw in the middle of each support and figure eights on the outsides. After going a bit overboard with the figure eights, I eliminated the screws altogether. After some final sanding, I applied the Teak Oil per directions. Flood the wood and wipe dry after about 30 minutes. The color is not as clear as an indoor finish but not as orangish as some outdoor finishes I’ve used. However, due to the late evening sun, the pics don’t indicate that. The downside of the top and then the show side. And finally, this is where it will live. Thanks all for following and for your comments. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Awesome work as usual Coop, this was a really great ride, and I really like that what was once rough lumber is now a beautiful table that will last many lifetimes, it has the character that can’t be bought and a great story tell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Thank you Dave! I’m a little disappointed in the feel of the finish. Prior to applying, the surface was really nice. Now it feels like it wants another sanding. Perhaps I should, and apply another coat. Again, the finish is Teak Oil. Anyone have a suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Give that oil some time to cure (weeks) before you try any sanding, or you'll have a gummy mess. DAMHIK. The table looks great, though! The 'teak oil' finish I've used is much like BLO, takes a while to fully harden, but can take on a really nice sheen and feel when it does. You may find the brown paper bag trick works wonders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Thanks Ross, I’ll hold off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Turned out great! I really like the contrasting leg cuffs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Strong work again, Ken. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Awesome build @Coop!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 That came out real nice Ken. A very good rendition of Pekovich's table. Nothing like turning what you thought might be firewood into a piece of furniture, that right there had to make it fun. On 11/11/2021 at 6:57 AM, bradpotts said: I really like the contrasting leg cuffs. Me too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Thanks for the ride-a-long. I always enjoy watching how others do things, solve problems, and make decisions. What a great back story and use of some material that was initially a disappointment. That is a great variation on a great table design. Some outdoor furniture is in my future so the thread is also timely. Thanks and the table looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 It has been 3 months now and the sheen or lack there of, is very disappointing. The finish is Teak Oil. The table is under the patio cover and will be exposed to the humidity only. Any suggestions for giving the wood a little more vibrancy? Water borne or oil based poly? Or the usual, apply on the bottom of an unseen piece as a trial? From what I have gathered, shellac adheres to everything and everything adheres to shellac. A perfect buffer. Is that the case here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Ken, I would probably go with oil based poly directly over the Teak oil. In my limited experience, shellac degrades in humidity, so I wouldn't bother with it between. Just a suggestion, but Minwax Tung Oil finish goes on like a wiping poly, but builds a sheen with less thickness, if you want 'close to the wood'. I don't know if there is a satin version, or just gloss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 Instead of starting another thread, I thought I would drop it here. I sanded all of the table down nicely with 400 grit and applied Minwax oil based poly. Cleaning instructions are “ Clean up with Regionally Compliant Cleaner”. These folks are running scared. I’ve never seen this before. Anyway, I used mineral spirits, wiped my brush down well and put it away. Today, the bristles of the new brush are as hard as the handle. I should have realized there was a problem when I didn’t notice any residue in the container. Should I have used lacquer thinner? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 I would have thought MS would work. Maybe you didn't use enough? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 2, 2022 Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 I've always used MS on such poly. You didn't grab a container of that 'green' mineral spirit product by accident, did you? Whatever that stuff is, isn't mineral spirits. Won't clean poly for nuthin'. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 No, this is the real deal. I have it soaking now and will leave it overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted March 2, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 2, 2022 On 3/1/2022 at 6:26 PM, wtnhighlander said: You didn't grab a container of that 'green' mineral spirit When they started forcing that stuff on us in California I grabbed up about three quarts of the real stuff. Then I pretty much changed my finish process and don't use it that much. I am hanging on to incase I need a new tool then I will sell it on California Finishing Product black market. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 3, 2022 Report Share Posted March 3, 2022 When i brushed poly, cleaning was a multi step process. I'd clean in a small amount of MS then I'd dump the MS out and pour in new. Think of it as dilution, you probably had enough poly in the fibers of the brush to make a 50:50 MS poly mix. Then you need to dilute it more. I also finished with a wash of soap and water. I'm afraid soaking won't do it any more though. Once it's hard MS dilutes, it doesn't dissolve. You'll need to use a chemical that will strip the poly from the brush. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 3, 2022 Report Share Posted March 3, 2022 Yeah, that brush may be gone. When I need to let a coat of paint dry overnight and I want to use the same brush the next day, I'll wrap the brush in plastic wrap and put it in the freezer. It'll keep for a day or two. That's with latex paint, but it might work for oil based polyurethane. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.