miranthis Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Found a guy with the ash I need and some other good woods at really good prices, but he has it rough...he will plane it, but no SLR.....so the question is, How do I make that SLR myself. I have:Old table saw, well set up, but a Craftsman 10 in contractor saw from 1967.6 inch craftsman jointer Can I do this?Jeff in KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 You can make a sled. Attach the ash to the sled, and rip away. Make sure the bottom of the sled is wider than the piece so it can register off the fence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Do you own a circular saw? If so, you can use a rip from MDF to make a long guide for the circular saw giving one straight edge. How long is your jointer? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Does SLR stand for straight line rip? Only thing I can decipher from the conversation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 I'm with Coop on this one.. Need to understand what "SLR" is first..To properly mill lumber, you really need a jointer, planer, and table saw. There are other ways to accomplish it but, the jointer/planer/TS are considered "best practice".If he's telling you that he'll surface 1 side flat, that's nice but, doesn't really accomplish what you need to work with the lumber. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Several good suggestions for achieving straight edges. Now you need to make the faces flat and parallel. Your jointer will flatten one face, but you need a planer to make the opposite face smooth and parallel. Or prepare to spend time hand planing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Yes, SLR means straight line rip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 These younguns and their abbreviations? IJDUI ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 These younguns and their abbreviations? IJDUI !I Just Don't Understand It? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Straight line rip still only gives you 1 edge. You have to have the ability to deal with the other 3 sides or the bank book to pay someone else to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miranthis Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I have a planer, but that works the long sides and I always have to use that to surface boards, so I did not mention it. I usually get my wood at the local Hardwoods store and they almost always have their stock S2SSLR (surfaced 2 sides, straight line ripped one edge).....I just thought, given my trouble with the abbreviations when I started that all the experienced folks already knew all this. :-) Anyway, the vexing part for me is what to do with a long board that has not had a Straight Line Ripped. If I understand your responses correctly I can do that with an mdf jig and my circular saw. Will give it a try...thanks. Jeff in KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arch Stanton Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Is there a reason you can't use your Craftsman jointer? If not, a straightedge and the circular saw would work, as would a jig and the table saw or a router and straight bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 These younguns and their abbreviations? IJDUI !SLR is a pretty standard sawmill abbreviation, along with S2S, S3S, & S4S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 I Just Don't Understand It?Nah, .. I just drive under the influence! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 S2SSLR (surfaced 2 sides, straight line ripped one edge)FYI...this is S3SS2S = surfaced two sides = both faces sandedS3S = surfaced three sides = both faces sanded and one edge straight line rippedS4S = surfaced four sides = both faces sanded and both edges straight line ripped, in parallel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 FYI...this is S3SS2S = surfaced two sides = both faces sandedS3S = surfaced three sides = both faces sanded and one edge straight line rippedS4S = surfaced four sides = both faces sanded and both edges straight line ripped, in parallelThanks for clarifying, sounded like s3s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miranthis Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 FYI...this is S3SS2S = surfaced two sides = both faces sandedS3S = surfaced three sides = both faces sanded and one edge straight line rippedS4S = surfaced four sides = both faces sanded and both edges straight line ripped, in parallelI understand, but at the wholesalers around here I never see S3S. It Is either Rough, S2S, S2SSLR or S4S. Usually they tell you the final thickness after surfacing, like "'4/4 Hard maple, SLR S2S 25/32" '....that means they started with rough 4/4 and planed it to 25/32 and then SLR on the one side.I am sure that each place has its own jargon as even the 3 places I go regularly the notation is slightly different.Again, though, I have never had a problem with jointing and planeing when I had that one 'factory edge. But with a 6 - 8 foot board with two unfinished edges i just wanted to know how to handle that. I don't normally joint a board that long and since it was called a 'rip' i was thinking table saw. But I understand now.Jeff in KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Sorry, but that makes absolutely no sense. If you straight line rip an S2S board, you now have S3S. That's pretty standard nomenclature across the industry. So either they're confused about the terminology or you are, but there's no logic in calling S3S "S2SSLR"...because it's S3S. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 I prefer S6SSSSSSLRS*SSL3SLRSV^2 lumber. At least, that's what they call it by me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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