Eric. Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Well hey, on the bright side...if you're milling for five hours, the green bear must be hanging tough! You can always set for a heavier cut, ya know...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 3 hours ago, Eric. said: Well hey, on the bright side...if you're milling for five hours, the green bear must be hanging tough! You can always set for a heavier cut, ya know...? I'm rockin a heavier cut already. They were just in pretty bad shape. Like 100% Cletus wood. That was all I could think when I was doing it. Also, completely filled the 55-gallon drum with dust, poured it out, made a mess doing it, used the shop vac to clean up, that big got full and had to change that too. But yeah the jointer performed well. No complaints. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Super hard to cut an 8' piece of plywood with a 55" track. It's only for a jig for this counter anyway, so the cut didn't have to be perfect. I have a ton of knots to fill. I have 4 "rows" of wood in my overall panel, so I'm filling the knots in each row separately. And then the small counter as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 making progress! keep the pics coming! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Lookin good Dude! Definately buy the West Systems by the gallon and with the plungers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Lookin great Cliff ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nice work, Cliff! Glad its you, not me, cutting the ply with a short track. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Nice work, Cliff! Glad its you, not me, cutting the ply with a short track. It was pretty sad. i worked very hard to line the track up to the previous cut and square it up. I was off by 1/16". So that's the last time I try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 3 minutes ago, Cliff said: It was pretty sad. i worked very hard to line the track up to the previous cut and square it up. I was off by 1/16". So that's the last time I try that. Would have been better off using a 2x4 and a circular saw. don't you have a table saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 8 minutes ago, Chestnut said: Would have been better off using a 2x4 and a circular saw. don't you have a table saw? I had to try this way just once to see how bad it would go, and since I knew I didn't need that edge to be perfect it didn't matter. Otherwise I'd have clamped down my 8' straight edge. Next time I'll just make sure I have the extension and another 55" track. I don't have clearance on infeed or outfeed for 8' and will never attempt to cut something so large without at least 4' of infeed and outfeed table supporting the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Today I discovered that no method I have of crosscutting meets my standards for this project, but I'm hoping to clean that up with a plane where necessary. It's not terrible, just could be better. I cut my boards to final size. And then under final size. Yup. Forgot that I'm having a 2" overlap on each end. Good thing is that the way I am doing this I can easily add another 8-10" board on the end. I just have to mill one up. And that might be harder than it sounds. We'll see. Then I moved onto my jig In theory, this is what I'll use to glue these as well, as it will keep the boards aligned correctly when doing the half lap joints. I honestly do not know why the board pokes up a bit above the 2x4's on the right side in the above picture. It could be variance in the plywood, the ground, the styrofoam, the centipede or the 2x4's. Hopefully it's not a variance in the boards as they were just sent through the planer about an hour before. I'm going to be taking half the thickness, 2 inches in from the end. So I took 2 pieces of plywood and screwed them to the 2x4's. Luckily the little woodpecker t-square here is 2" wide. On the plywood piece on the right I screwed a stop that is flush with the plywood. So I just slide my board in until it hits the stop. The stop can be seen better in this pic Slide the board in, and I use my pattern bit to take off the waste. I still need to determine the exact half way point of the thickness. I'm not sure if I'm just going to rough estimate then deliberately come in way under and dial it in, or do some test boards. I also just realized I may have to use more than one router bit because I only have two that will work, one is 1/4" cutting length and the other is 3/4" - the 3/4 is too long and putting the bearing on the plywood may force it to take too deep of a cut, so I may need to do some swapping. And now I need a 3rd router because no way I'm taking the one out of the table! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Cliff, not trying to talk you out of buying another router, but if you need to do bit swapping one of those digital height redout gizmos for setting blade height works really well for routers too. Besides having a readout, you can drop it to the bit and lock it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 3 minutes ago, Janello said: Cliff, not trying to talk you out of buying another router, but if you need to do bit swapping one of those digital height redout gizmos for setting blade height works really well for routers too. Besides having a readout, you can drop it to the bit and lock it. One of these? http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR25-Digital-Height-Gauge/dp/B006WMRVS4 That intrigues me. I've already bought 2 routers in the last few months. Not in the mood to buy another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 You could add a second layer of ply to your jig and then just stick with the 3/4 bit.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjtboy Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 32 minutes ago, Cliff said: One of these? I use that exact one all the time - works great! Can do bit/blade height, but also has an attachment to do depth too - I don't use this feature all that often, but has come in handy a few times. You can usually find one on sale for $20-25 - most woodworking shops sell that one or one very similar. I think I got mine from Rockler on sale a few years back. Recently saw the email that all Wixey is on sale via Incra: http://www.incrementaltools.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=WXWR25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 40 minutes ago, Cliff said: One of these? http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR25-Digital-Height-Gauge/dp/B006WMRVS4 That intrigues me. I've already bought 2 routers in the last few months. Not in the mood to buy another. Yes, mines probably a cheaper version but works. That was what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 25 minutes ago, TIODS said: You could add a second layer of ply to your jig and then just stick with the 3/4 bit.. That seems pretty simple. Does Festool make plywood? I feel like it should cost a lot. @Janello - only problem I see with that gauge is realistically I can only get it at amazon and it won't be here until monday even with one day shipping. grr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I like Kevs idea better anyway if you can make that work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Today I used my jig to route out my lap joints on most of my first row of boards. I still need to mill another 12-15" section I think to get my full 10' length. It went pretty well. Of course on the second board, the router managed to walk, or I lifted it or something so it bit into the plywood. So I had to gingerly route near the line in one corner, then chisel out the rest of the waste afterwards on every board. But hey, only like 35 more boards to go or something. Not a big deal right? I thought the chiseling would be easier than trying to line up a board to be identical to the current one to get my jig normal again. Oh and it took 5 boards before I realized that waxing the jig would make it A TON easier to get the boards out from under the plywood. Some days I think it's a miracle I manage to get anything right! This is basically what it looks like without glue after the routing. That gap is acceptable to me. Tomorrow I glue up the stuff I did tonight. Anyone know if I wax my entire jig, will the epoxy not stick to it? Otherwise I'm going to have to use that brown paper and it will stick to the boards pretty good. I know that Titebond doesn't stick usually when stuff is waxed, wasn't sure on epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Saran Wrap dude. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Keep it going cliff - looking forward to seeing it come together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 11 hours ago, Pug said: Keep it going cliff - looking forward to seeing it come together. Thanks for the encouragement Pug. So far it's going much better than I had hoped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 If my gaps are a little bigger than I like.. Should I fill with epoxy or walnut wood filler? Or nothing? I have tint for the epoxy and timbermate walnut filler. I feel like, if I use the filler, I have to do it on every crack no matter the size. And then it will look off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 I would use the epoxy.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted April 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 1 minute ago, TIODS said: I would use the epoxy.. Thanks! Now to find some injector things. They are here somewhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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