Roger Heitzman Table


Janello

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1 hour ago, Janello said:

Yes, you can keep score but I hope you win ! :)

That's good of ya John. If I keep score...I win! :P

But really, I just meant that you get extra points for the do-over rather than trying to pull off some unsightly patch. I almost always opt for the do-over. It may be just because I don't have the skills to effect an appropriate fix, but cutting the losses and going the long road is often a tough decision. It's usually for the best in the end...

The table looks great and it was a classy move to let the originator of the design in on the fact that you're drawing inspiration from him. There was no need to do that, but I bet he's stoked.

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1 hour ago, Janello said:

Doh! I misunderstood ya, Dave. I thought you meant we get points for who made more wrong legs. lol

Yeah, if that was shop furniture it would have gotten the repair ! There was no good way to hide that boo boo though. :ph34r:

Well shoot...if we're counting who makes the most mistakes...I'm a sure winner. :)

 

 

 

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I had to go back to the drawing board. The bottom shelf on this piece must be square. It's a large focal point and there's no compromise with it.

Having said that, I made another mistake. I had figured 16" for the inside dimension of the legs in the front and 14" for the side. I thought this would allow for a square bottom shelf but It doesn't. At least not one that looks like the original. I had a decision to make. Shorten the side aprons (2 parts) 2 inches OR lengthen the bottom rails and front and rear apron 2 Inches (4 parts). Keeping true to the original and after much contemplation, I started making new templates and milling more lumber to widen the front. Sucks, but I want this table right.

I now have damn near enough parts shaped to make 2 tables. One the way I want it, and another I can patch up and throw in the shop or give to the salvation army. The second table will be a rainy day project down the road.

Almost done with FIX 2.0 and will post another pic soon.  

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Awesome fix.  I am totally with you on just jumping to a remake with no muss and no fuss.  Years ago I would spend four times as long as it takes to make a new part trying to save the bad one.  Woodworking; its a journey, not a destination ;-)

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Thanks guys! 

Had to run out this afternoon, but I did get a test leg shaped after I got home. Pretty happy with the results, even though this was a quick and dirty trial. I used my festool spokeshaves with oscillating shaver blade and my festool robotic arm sander. They both come in that new systainer that keeps beer cold too.

leg1.jpg

And with a tad more refining, wiped down with my festool glue rag :P

leg2.jpg

 

 

 

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Thanks E. Yeah, spoke shaves do almost everything. I used the flat and convex depending on the area. Started with a finger drawn pencil line, chamfered corners and worked to the middle from each side. Then hit it really lightly with 180 in the ROS. I also used an apron plane and rabbet block here and there.

Oh...and the step down was done with a mortising bit using another mistake leg as a template for the bearing. My mistakes are coming in handy!

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You just need to re-title that "mistake leg" as an "angular sweep template assist device".  There, all better ;).   I have various amusing names for my mistakes . . . not all of them can be used in a public forum however :mellow:.

The leg step and sweep taper came out perfect IMHO. With the wider stance the "feel" of this piece is really solid.  I am really enjoying the ride-along..

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Between Friday night and Saturday I got all 4 legs shaped. Here's a small walk through. 

After cutting off and resawing the step down portion of a spare leg I double face taped it to each table leg as a template for the inset portion to be routed. 

leg1.jpg

Pencil lines and I start shaping the outside curve, then move to the face.

leg2.jpg

 This is before sanding, just spoke shave work. I used the ROS to clean up the edges sharp and use a swirl motion to maintain the profile and smooth it. I'll hand sand lightly with 220 later. 

leg3.jpg

All 4 legs shaped, then checked against one another and dry fit again to check reveals with aprons. Some very minor adjustments were needed for reveals. 

leg5.jpg

Thrown in for a quick comparison. There are a few obvious differences. But overall, I think I captured it fairly well.

vonrohr_table.jpg

A buddy of mine makes an appearance. He's making a cherry coffee table in my shop. He's never done any real woodworking but took to it like a duck in water. I showed him one mortise, he did the rest. I'll post some sneak pics on his progress along the way.

table1.jpg

 

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Thanks guys !  So far Wayne has been a pleasure to have around. He picks things up extremely fast. I haven't had to show him anything more than once. He had some pretty warped boards that he started with (air dried timber he had milled from a fallen tree in his yard 5 years ago) and got them all nice and square on his own.

I learned something about the Table legs I shaped. After studying the original and shaping mine, I am quite certain Roger started with 2" thick stock and tapered the face to 1 3/4 where the outer curve starts. That extra 1/4" at the base would allow for the wider curve at the bottom (wider the curve, more depth needed for same radii). If you look at the inside of his leg you'll notice a consistent 1 1/2. The only way that can be achieved with a wider base it to have a thicker base as well. It will make more sense if you look at my legs and notice the inside face at the bottom is 1/4" thinner than at the top. I'm not going to loose much sleep over this, but I would attack it differently next time.

 

Edit: Scratch everything I said about the leg above! I've been wracking my brain over this, but now I am sure I know what Roger did. He used a compound radius on the face of the leg. So to maintain the same thickness on the inside profile, he started with slightly thicker stock than I did (likely 2")....set the drawer apron back farther to accommodate a tighter radius at the top of the leg than the bottom. I had a Fender guitar that used a compound radius for the neck, where the frets near the headstock had more radius than those frets closer to the guitar body. Same principal. I'm sure some of you can give a rats ass, but this info may help someone trying this table in the future.

 

 

 

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