Brendon_t Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 2 hours ago, wdwerker said: I spray a coat of sanding sealer on my Baltic birch drawers to prevent the wood from collecting dirt & greasy fingerprints. I sand 320 after a coat or 2 to smooth the nibs & raised grain , then leave it as a matte finish. I'm usually spraying the rest of the cabinet so it takes little time or effort since I'm already set up to spray. Some sort of finish might help prevent sweaters or delicate fabrics from snagging on an edge or rough spot. I tried Watco once but it takes too long to dry. Maybe wiping on a coat of ARS would work, it's not like you need to build a finish. Bullseye shellac sanding sealer work for the purpose? This is my first project I've sprayed to date so it's still new. 2 hours ago, Ryan Grondin said: Sounds like you dress nice... Project is coming along nicely!! I work in finance so 4-5 yes. After that, I'm in a set of dickies or Levi's and a tee shirt. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Shellac should be fine. as long as you don't put booze soaked clothes in the drawer ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 3 hours ago, wdwerker said: I spray a coat of sanding sealer on my Baltic birch drawers to prevent the wood from collecting dirt & greasy fingerprints. I sand 320 after a coat or 2 to smooth the nibs & raised grain , then leave it as a matte finish. I'm usually spraying the rest of the cabinet so it takes little time or effort since I'm already set up to spray. Some sort of finish might help prevent sweaters or delicate fabrics from snagging on an edge or rough spot. I tried Watco once but it takes too long to dry. Maybe wiping on a coat of ARS would work, it's not like you need to build a finish. What is sanding sealer made up of? Is it an oil-based finish? Even normal poly without any BLO in it still stinks too much for me to use in an enclosed space, and takes 3-4 weeks for me to feel better about the smell of anything with BLO in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 23 minutes ago, JosephThomas said: What is sanding sealer made up of? Is it an oil-based finish? Even normal poly without any BLO in it still stinks too much for me to use in an enclosed space, and takes 3-4 weeks for me to feel better about the smell of anything with BLO in it. No, and it is not a "finish." It is almost always water or shellac based. It is only meant to remain in pores and micro scratches. It needs to dry fast. Coat it, sand it and hour later, first coat of finish. Most of the sanding sealer is gone with the fine sanding. Other guys might have better knowledge, but this is how it was used in my paint store stain training. I suspect they meant "shellac it." Ok, I defer. If Steve said it, he means it. Take my post with a grain of salt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 48 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: No, and it is not a "finish." It is almost always water or shellac based. It is only meant to remain in pores and micro scratches. It needs to dry fast. Coat it, sand it and hour later, first coat of finish. Most of the sanding sealer is gone with the fine sanding. Other guys might have better knowledge, but this is how it was used in my paint store stain training. I suspect they meant "shellac it." Ok, I defer. If Steve said it, he means it. Take my post with a grain of salt. That's always been my understanding also. Just a quick drying seal coat that does a bit of pore filling for you before laying down your actual finish. @wdwerker what do you use on drawer boxes for that little bit of protection? Do you spray or wipe on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Brendon, I always finish all interior parts of my projects, usually shellac or spray lacquer. My wife has a super-sensitive olfactory sense, and the smell of raw wood bothers her. But who doesn't love the smell of shellac in the morning? Smells like victory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 I usually use a waterbourne sanding sealer. It's made to go under ML Campbell Pre Cat Agualente . But I see no reason not to use shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Today was slow going as much of the progress was sanding. 4 sides of each drawer box in and out plus the bottom with 220, sprayed 2 coats of bullseye clear shellac then hand sanded with a 320 sanding pad to knock down the nibs. Once that was done, I glued and tacked together 3 pieces of ply to back fill behind the face frames for hinges. All 8 hinges were installed using a cut of 3/4" ply as the spacer. I hung one set of drawer runners sorting the difference of 1/4" to give an even 1/8" top and bottom. Im very happy with the resulting fit of the boxes. The slides are a bit stiff, but I'm sure that will get easier when the grease breaks down. Full extension is very nice. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I always allow 1 1/16 for slides. Easier to shim slightly than shave a drawer. Drawers will work better with a load in them too. Looking good ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 4 minutes ago, wdwerker said: I always allow 1 1/16 for slides. Easier to shim slightly than shave a drawer. Drawers will work better with a load in them too. Looking good ! Side to side I left 1 1/6". Hardware recommended .5/side so I added a bit and they fit great. Thanks again for the finishing the drawers advice Steve. They feel great and seeing how the fronts, with no shellac on them for glue adhesion later already have dirty hand prints, it was the right call. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Nice work, Brendon! Well-fit and aligned drawers always impress me! Hhhmmm...that sounds different after I read it through... ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Finally I get to a spot where I can take a break and not feel like a turd. The drawer boxes went in without much fuss. I had a bit more slop in the lower right drawer than I liked. A 32nd or so shim cut on the table saw fixed it up all proper like. The drawer faces were double stick taped in position using shims and blue tape to keep everything aligned. I'm sort of at a pause right now because I cannot settle on a set of hardware. I've spent hours searching and just haven't come across any that knock my Sox off. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I think you done some fine cabinet work .Looks great..Shiming a draw is common ..You should feel good about this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Time to break out the lathe and turn some knobs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Grondin Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Looks great!!! very nice. I like the look of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 It really looks great. I can appreciate your being stuck on not finding the right knobs. My wife likes to call this moment of indecision "project paralysis". I hit it often but I always feel like not making a rash decision or settling on something results in a much better finished project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Thanks Mark. This is really my first set of full sized cabinet casework aside from a smaller bookshelf. 7 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Time to break out the lathe and turn some knobs? Ross I would love to, but don't own a lathe and probably won't unless I can grow more space. I don't have a horizontal surface it could live on available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 I must be getting old, Look up Amrock.com for knobs! Great selection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: I'm sort of at a pause right now because I cannot settle on a set of hardware. Ebony. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 16 minutes ago, RichardA said: I must be getting old, Look up Amrock.com for knobs! Great selection! Thanks Rick, I'll check them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 22 minutes ago, Eric. said: Ebony. If I had the skill to hand carve 6 identical pulls, I would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 You don't have to carve them. Make a template, cut the rough shape out on the bandsaw, clean up with rasps and sandpaper. You can do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Lots to choose from at Lee Valley too. They have a wide selection of pulls , knobs and decorative hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Maybe just route a finger grove in the bottom edge of the drawer fronts? I made the wenge drawer pulls on my son's desk with just a couple milling operations. No templates required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.