Coffee Table


..Kev

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Just now, wdwerker said:

Sounds like you explored the possibilities. Ideas pop into my head. Like I tell my clients encourage it or shoot it down and we move on. 

Exactly..  We did explore a lot of different options and configurations..

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Another great video Kev!

 

So questions.

 

1) you use the kapex at home and Chet has the Bosch. How do you feel about it? If you didn't have one and we're going to buy one or the other, what would you lean to?

 

2) I hope that wenge got used somewhere? The off cut from your big "arm" for lack of a better term.

 

3) how deep are the dutchmans?

 

 

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30 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

Another great video Kev!

 

So questions.

 

1) you use the kapex at home and Chet has the Bosch. How do you feel about it? If you didn't have one and we're going to buy one or the other, what would you lean to?

 

2) I hope that wenge got used somewhere? The off cut from your big "arm" for lack of a better term.

 

3) how deep are the dutchmans?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1.  The Bosch glide is a great saw!  It doesn't have the DC of the Kapex but, it does have more HP than the Kapex.  The Kapex laser guide is also top notch!  So, to answer your question..  It would depend on my budget and if I really needed extra HP or better DC.  You really can't go wrong with either saw!  On that note, I saw someone on here posted about using the FT hold down on the Bosch saw and their chief complaint is that you can only use 1/2" material to use on the 0 clearance fence.  I should have posted over in that thread but, it's the same with the Kapex.

2.  There was a bit of 8/4 Wenge left over.  I'm sure that @Chet K will find some uses for it in future projects.

3.  Dutchmen were between 5/8 and 3/4 deep..  

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Ok Kev, just sat down with the video. To my eye there are too many thick square faces. That foot could use a taper, chamfer, curve, ogee... The same goes for the table edge where it does not feature a live edge. It seems it could use an undercut. Just my two cents. It will live in your house not mine. 

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14 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Ok Kev, just sat down with the video. To my eye there are too many thick square faces. That foot could use a taper, chamfer, curve, ogee... The same goes for the table edge where it does not feature a live edge. It seems it could use an undercut. Just my two cents. It will live in your house not mine. 

Patience..  It will ;)

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Kev, another great video, but like others, way too short. I understand, only so many hours in a day. I've only done one project that required dutchmans and I went with 1/3 the thickness of the wood. Is there a rule of thumb? i'm aniouxiously awaiting the cut for the waterfall cut and I bet your butt is puckered. No pressure;)! Good luck man, if anyone can do it, you be the one! 

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Kev - pretty cool that you guys are tackling this together with your own original design.  Wish I lived closer to more forum members and could team up on a project or two :)

One question I had - with regard to the curved legs, the way they come out of the glued up blank they end up with mostly short grain in the leg.  Was that because you didn't have enough long pieces to get a more long grain orientation?  Any thought to mitering two longer pieces with dominos and using that as a blank, so that the long grain would flow through the leg (both for aesthetics and strength)?  Not trying to nit pick - just a thought that occurred while I was watching.

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3 hours ago, bgreenb said:

Kev - pretty cool that you guys are tackling this together with your own original design.  Wish I lived closer to more forum members and could team up on a project or two :)

One question I had - with regard to the curved legs, the way they come out of the glued up blank they end up with mostly short grain in the leg.  Was that because you didn't have enough long pieces to get a more long grain orientation?  Any thought to mitering two longer pieces with dominos and using that as a blank, so that the long grain would flow through the leg (both for aesthetics and strength)?  Not trying to nit pick - just a thought that occurred while I was watching.

 

3 hours ago, Tom Cancelleri said:

Kev, 

I'm confused by the choice to do those long grain glue ups and then cut the leg so it's all short grain. That leg is structural is it not?

We did consider this issue.  The bulk of that particular leg has the desired grain orientation for structural support.  The rest of it will be put together with multiple dominoes and then lagged to the table itself so, I don't see any issues with support.

It's not an "ideal" situation but, it is as good as it could be with the available material.

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Kev, table is looking great!  I have a question, maybe it was my eyes playing tricks, but when you were doing the dry assembly it looked like you used blocks to pull th miter tight, then when you did the glue up I didn't see the blocks.  Why the change in strategy, unless like I said, eyes playing tricks?

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5 hours ago, Woodenskye said:

Kev, table is looking great!  I have a question, maybe it was my eyes playing tricks, but when you were doing the dry assembly it looked like you used blocks to pull th miter tight, then when you did the glue up I didn't see the blocks.  Why the change in strategy, unless like I said, eyes playing tricks?

We did uses those blocks initially but, they were slipping under the pressure.  It would have helped if we'd of used some CA glue.  The way we did the clamping did a nice job of pulling the joint together and didn't take it out of square.  So, it worked good on this one but, might not on the next one..  In the end, you just have to plan your clamping strategy and go with what works. 

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5 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Kev, on the dry fit, after you tapped it apart, are the dominos hard to remove and I guess you can't re-use them?

Yes.  I used the tight setting on the domino so, they were snug to remove. I use a piece of scrap and some pliers to pry them out.  You can reuse them tho, no issues there.

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1)And the tight fit has to do with the lateral and not the thickness?

2)Assuming that's correct, why would you use the tight fit in a butt pucker situation like this? Would you not want a little leeway? 

3) when would you ever use the not so tight fit? 

All of this asked from a non Domino user. Just curious. 

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Correct, I was trying to prevent the lateral movement and keep the grain lined up perfectly.  The dry fit showed that everything was lined up so, the domino worked as advertised.

Loose fitting works awesome in those situations where you want a little wiggle room in a fit up.  I've used them often on apron to leg joints.  Would also be useful in something like breadboard ends where you need to allow for that wood movement.

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Maybe I missed it since I watched at like 2am (working EU hours) butnyou said the end was bad but you put a wenge strip and glued it back and it was fine? What was bad with it? Or what did I miss?

 

Looking awesome so far!!! Learning as always from you

 

 

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