justforfun Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Ty for all the replies about the older no 8. Got it half way there. Cuts pretty decent and should do a lot better with some more work. I know its not one to use a lot but was glad I bought it anyways. Looking for my next one. Still doing a lot of research as I never had a woodworking class so learning as I go and have started to narrow it down but would like opinions. Want one to clean up some really rough oak. Price is a factor at the moment. I have about 20 different ones on watch on eBay but don't know the best route. I can get a used but new style sweetheart no 4 in the upper part of my range. Miller falls no 14. Older stanly no 4 or 5. Not sure if the stanley's with the yellow paint around the logos are as good as the much older ones. Haven't really checked out low jack planes much or know what they do. When I checked eBay for stanley low jack there were only newer ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 #4 is my most used plane. I'd also get a good block or apron plane if you don't have one of those. Your plane collection is going to be determined by the kind of work you do and how much machines play a role in your workflow. We can't give you recommendations that mean anything without that information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 4 minutes ago, Lester Burnham said: I was looking at those the other day. I added this to my Christmas list. http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,48942 Apron planes are awesome but I'd buy a block plane first if you don't have one already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 29 minutes ago, Eric. said: I'd also get a good block or apron plane if you don't have one of those. It may be out of your price range but the Lie Nielsen rabbeting block plan is a nice block plan that can cover some different tasks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 1 minute ago, Chet K said: It may be out of your price range but the Lie Nielsen rabbeting block plan is a nice block plan that can cover some different tasks. I know this is a common suggestion for a "do it all" option if you're only going to have one block plane, but I don't recommend it because it doesn't have an adjustable mouth which means it will be much more difficult to achieve fine shavings without tearout on long grain. Also I personally wouldn't want to deal with turning the knickers out of the way, and it's less comfortable to grip in certain ways because the blade extends all the way to the sides. So in short, I'd recommend buying a regular block plane either in standard angle or low angle, and add a rabbet block later if you feel the need. Another option would be to buy a standard block and a shoulder plane, and omit the rabbet block altogether. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 A #4 or #5 is a great all rounder. Stanley are great, there are plenty of blog posts and videos out there you can watch these days. I'd steer you to Paul Sellers stuff as you've headed in the direction of vintage tools. He has a video taking quite a poor #4 into a nice tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wood Basher Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Before reading this thread I had never heard of an apron plane and I can't really see the difference between that and a block plane. What would you use an apron plane for and why would it be better than a block plane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 9 minutes ago, Wood Basher said: Before reading this thread I had never heard of an apron plane and I can't really see the difference between that and a block plane. What would you use an apron plane for and why would it be better than a block plane? Apron planes are smaller and don't have adjustable mouths. I use mine for small, delicate tasks but most frequently for breaking edges and chamfering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justforfun Posted June 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 I have a older made in use craftsman block plane that was my dads not sure if its a good one or not but I have one. I need to resharpen it. I sharpened it some as my first resharpening experience but after working with the no 8 I realize I can and should get it sharper. The fulion mentioned in the no 8 thread( think it would be a no3 but not sure) he didn't sell so he's giving it away. I might take it but I wanted a better one. I do know from using the no 8 I like weight to the plane. It felt good just big. I like cleaning up old wood. Don't usually get it perfect. If there is saw marks in it sometimes I leave them in. I do have some electric tools I can use if its going to be real labor intensive but I just enjoy a little hand work. Quiet,low dust and relaxing when I had it set just right. Im around power tools all day at work (construction) and by the end of the day its just a relief to not have the noise going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aengland Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Preference and/or convenience... but a 9 1/4 or 9 1/2 works just as well, if tuned right. Truly, however, a block plane is very handy. It's rarely the first plane I use, but in the finishing stages, it's handy to have. Hand planes are excellent tools (and thus difficult not to accumulate). Depending on where your wood comes from (log or box store), different planes are necessary for processing. Essentially, you need hoggers to take off a lot of wood, jointers to make jointing of straight lines possible, and finishing planes to produce those whispy shavings that indicate a marvelous finish (IMO, better than sanding). Each of us has our own preferences. So long as what you do works, then don't fall into the despair of thinking that only a few more tools will make something work. At the end of the day, all tools that accomplish what a chisel could have done are just alternative place holders for chisels. Do buy quality! Do invest in sharpening skills. Back to essential planes..... My #6 is by far the most used plane in my stable. It can hog or finish or joint. But I reach for my 3 or 4 to finish, just like I reach for my 7 or 8 to joint. A #5 is very handy and actually does all three of these (just like the #6). In the end, shorter planes typically finish better while longer planes typically joint or flatten stock better. If a plane works for you, keep it; if not--bless someone else--then move on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 1 hour ago, G S Haydon said: A #4 or #5 is a great all rounder. Stanley are great, there are plenty of blog posts and videos out there you can watch these days. I'd steer you to Paul Sellers stuff as you've headed in the direction of vintage tools. He has a video taking quite a poor #4 into a nice tool. Graham where have you been? Good to here from you. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 3 hours ago, Lester Burnham said: I was looking at those the other day. I added this to my Christmas list. http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,48942 I like that apron plane, it might go on my list too. FWIW, I have a rabbeting block plane and wish I had gone with a LA block plane with an adjustable mouth instead. When I bought the rabbet block plane I was using power tools a lot more. It does get used but just like Eric said it not the greatest on long grain. Not sure what your budget is but like a few others have said, No 4 or 5 used Stanley would probably suit you well. I would be more inclined to spend a few more dollars on a plane that looks to be in better shape. Personally I dislike tool rehab and would much rather get to work using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justforfun Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 I take that back on the block plane. Not sure why I thought it said craftsman. The name was painted on and is gone so could be anything. The only thing for sure is it says made in USA. Was trying to keep the budget to 80.00 or less if possible. I saw more than one used no4 newer style sweethearts for around that but heard mixed reviews so I didn't know if they were as good as the older baileys or other older styles like miller falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 I just re-read your original post and saw you specifically want this to clean up rough oak. Think of this like sandpaper. A smoother is your finishing grit, say 180 or 220. To start from "really rough," you don't want 180 grit. You want something like 80 grit. Look for a #5, it'll be a work horse that can knock down "really rough" to "kinda smooth." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted June 12, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 I missed that part, too. I'm a skimmer and it's constantly biting me. Actually, if it's "really" rough oak, and you're wanting to mill it start to finish by hand, the first plane in the process would be a scrub plane. It takes heavy cuts and removes a lot of material quickly. Then you move to your #5, then a #7 or #8, then finish with a #4. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/special-purpose-tools/scrub-plane?node=4076 - OR - You can spend ten seconds at the jointer and five minutes with the #4. Have beer. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 On 6/11/2017 at 8:31 PM, Chet K said: Graham where have you been? Good to here from you. Hi Chet, not far. Glad to be posting again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 On 6/12/2017 at 4:02 PM, G S Haydon said: Hi Chet, not far. Glad to be posting again. Yeah, welcome back Graham. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justforfun Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Taking in everything everyone said and a lot more reading I think Im leaning towards a no 5 to start and a 5 1/4 to make my own scrub. The factory scrubs are little more aggressive than I think I want which Is why I want to do my own little less aggressive with the 5 1/4. Have a no 5 on the way from eBay which I know can be a gamble but It looked clean and if I dated it right its a type 16 and the price was right. Im almost embarresed to say this but when I say Im new to this to prove it I just found out something today. Had the locking lever to tight and I thought you had to unlock it everytime to adjust blade depth. Boy let me tell you it a lot easier to set up now . Been practicing on the 1 1/2" edge of a scrap pc of oak. Getting decent result for me now and going to have to move on to the wider side. Thats why I'm not going all out on the expensive ones until I know this is for me and I know I won't ruin a nice one. The more I did the more I liked it. Up till now Ive been a power tool type of guy. TY for your patience. Looking at the mkII blade sharpener. Looks sweet. Any problems with it? Any cheaper that are still good? I hand sharpened mine and got it cutting paper nice but not really shaving sharp. Working on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justforfun Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 So My number 5 just showed up. Just what I wanted except for the smashed box, 7" gash on the side of the box and the broken handle. Im leaving for couple days so not sure what his response will be. About makes me sick cause I was happy with the condition besides that. Its a clean break. Does apoxing it hold as well as new or is it a weak spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 I would make an insurance claim and buy or make a new handle. Maybe glue the current one after making the claim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BonPacific Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Glueing it back together might work, but better to get it made right from the seller/shipping. Go through with the claim. Then make one that fits your hand perfectly, I do that with all my planes and I enjoy the process, but YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 I've been using a no. 4 with a broken tote for years. I bought a replacement Rosewood handle for it. The replacement handle is still in the Smooth toolbox. I just never think about it at the right time, and don't notice the handle being broken when I'm using it. It's broken all the way through, but tightening the screw right after I got it, " fixed" it good enough to use. I'd still contact the seller though. I knew mine was broken when I bought it. The last time I used it was to surface both sides of 32 of these shutter panels. That's it on the shoulder vise still with the broken tote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justforfun Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Just got back. They didn't have insurance. They said they would work it out with me even if it means a partial money refund. Don't know how I feel. Im little bummed but I don't think it was the sellers fault. Its seams a little scamish that you have to buy insurance from the PO so they don't break it when they ship it. I know they still should have got it but this box was totally abused. Anyone think titebond III wood glue would do it till I made one? Its broke almost dead center. Very clean, when pushed down you can't see it. Ive done nothing to it till this resolved and maybe tightening the bolt would do it but right now with the bolt as tight as it is this moment it moves to much to use. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I would give a 5/16 steel rod, used as a dowel a try with epoxy to attach the two pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Totes are cheap on ebay if you can't rig it securely enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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