Is there a practical difference

[Immortan D]

30 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

 

 

For the record, I called BS on Daniels 2nd and 3rd points. I agree that the extra weight could be helpful. Inertia is a real thing apparently.

 

The advantages of the chip breaker have been demonstrated by real science, I mean YouTube videos

I can't find the link, but it doesn't matter, because I know the chip breaker is a good thing.

[shaneymack]

The advantages of the chip breaker have been demonstrated by real science, I mean YouTube videos

I can't find the link, but it doesn't matter, because I know the chip breaker is a good thing.

 

Well if youtube told you, who the heck am I to argue?? LOL

 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

 

 

[Llama]

1 hour ago, shaneymack said:

Well if youtube told you, who the heck am I to argue?? LOL

 

LOL!!!! 

[Tpt life]

.

[Immortan D]

Here it is, enjoy!

 

 

[Tpt life]

7 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

Here it is, enjoy!

This compares cap vs no cap on bevel down standard angles. This does not compare all mix of variables. 

[Immortan D]

Just now, C Shaffer said:

This compares cap vs no cap on bevel down standard angles. This does not compare all mix of variables. 

So?

[Eric.]

Technically the adjustable mouth on BU planes is supposed to make up for the lack of the chip breaker.  But I do agree that having a chip breaker is a more fool-proof way of reducing tearout than not having one.  I'm a bevel down guy, through and through.  I only use my BU planes for end grain anymore.

[Immortan D]

1 minute ago, Eric. said:

Technically the adjustable mouth on BU planes is supposed to make up for the lack of the chip breaker.  But I do agree that having a chip breaker is a more fool-proof way of reducing tearout than not having one.  I'm a bevel down guy, through and through.  I only use my BU planes for end grain anymore.

Ditto.

[Tpt life]

2 hours ago, Immortan D said:

So?

My point is this, the sharing of a one faceted video can lead to incorrect assumptions. I think your text with a link did not really make a well supported argument and just tacking on a ditto to Eric's reply did not fix it. Single irons work. Double irons work. Bevel ups work. They all will do more than most users can get out of them. Sharp matters most. Chasing silver bullets or assuming everyone will have a similar experience to our own is the dog chasing its tail. 

[Immortan D]

4 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

My point is this, the sharing of a one faceted video can lead to incorrect assumptions. I think your text with a link did not really make a well supported argument and just tacking on a ditto to Eric's reply didn't not fix it. Single irons work. Double irons work. Bevel ups work. They all will do more than most users can get out of them. Sharp matters most. Chasing silver bullets or assuming everyone will have a similar experience to our own is the dog chasing its tail. 

Now this really is BS.

[Llama]

4 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

Now this really is BS.

BS.

 

[Llama]

This BD plane seems to be working fine without a chip breaker... 

https://abouna.smugmug.com/Commercial-Work/Benchcrafted-Videos/n-RjcfH/i-XBw95Ls/A

 

[aengland]

With all the BS flying around in this conversation, I hesitate to add my "crap." 

 

I own, use, and like both BD and BU planes. I bought BU (one LN and one LV) because my friends (along with the forums) said it would solve all my problems with gnarly grains. Well, I guess having less cash has certainly led to buying less wood, hence, lessening my problem--but I digress.

 

On end grain, the BU is certainly in it's sweet spot. When I want the final finish pass on any grain, again, the BU is just superb at producing the finest shavings. OTOH, after buying and loving the BU planes, I improved my sharpening kit and skills, and guess what? Gnarly grain yields quite well to realllllly sharp BD planes (with chip breakers, of course). And I'm referring to normal Stanley Bailey planes (types 10-19, fours, fives, or sixes). My new goal, is to move to a freshly sharpened plane blade for gnarly grain--for me, that's 10,000 or 13,000 grit sharp.

 

Of course, BU planes work even "more better" when excessively sharpened... which is a by-product of having less money to buy the wood for building projects since I bought all these necessary planes.

 

[Llama]

^^ BS

[wtnhighlander]

The biggest advantage I have observed in BU over BD planes, is that most of the BU designs I see have ample room around the tote, whereas my BD planes are all knuckle-busters. Almost all.

[Ronn W]

C Shaffer :  Thanks for the video. That explained was exactly what my engineering brain needed. Thanks again.

[Llama]

9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

The biggest advantage I have observed in BU over BD planes, is that most of the BU designs I see have ample room around the tote, whereas my BD planes are all knuckle-busters. Almost all.

Which is why I prefer them. (and they're better)  

[collinb]

So there's three kinds of planes -- BU, BD, and BS?

And that stands for Best Sharp? Better Sharpen?

 

[pkinneb]

I have both but prefer BD because I can adjust the depth of cut with out stopping...no big deal just my preference.

[G S Haydon]

On 6/29/2017 at 6:22 PM, Ronn W said:

Question 1.  When it comes to smoothing planes is there a practical difference between a #4 with a 45 degree cutting angle and a something like the Veritas Bevel up smoothing plane with a 35 degree blade bevel (47 degress total)?  Both are about the same size.

Question 2:  What would be the advantage to putting a blade with a 50 degree bevel in the bevel up plane (62 degrees total)??  I will be using this combination in Lonnie Birds class.  I will certainly learn his answer at the class but wanted you guys' input.

Practical benefit of a Bevel Down is the cap iron (chip breaker). High angles of attack work and can be essential on moulding planes as their design makes fitting of a cap iron impossible. But a cap iron makes for such a versatile tool.

Mr Bird is a top class craftsman and I'm sure he's just getting the job done to a high standard with a proven method. However, I'd wager a bog standard Stanley, with a cap iron set properly, would do a job just as well. 

If you want a smoothing plane that will suit 99% of woodworkers then look no further than a #4, learn to use the cap iron and you're sorted. There are personal preferences and nuances and hairs that can be split on the topic, but I stand by my recommendation as a non BS position.

[Keggers]

23 hours ago, C Shaffer said:

.

This made me laugh out loud! No BS!