Mick S Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Really nice job, Paul. You're rolling through this one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 23 minutes ago, Mick S said: Really nice job, Paul. You're rolling through this one. Thanks Mick! Yeah after the bar stools I have a couple of shorter projects before my next big one which will be the Morris chair and ottoman later this year. Kind of fun to start and finish a project in a few weeks rather than several months. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeset202 Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Beautiful work, the ebony accent will really pop, I am afraid to buy that stuff, I would have to keep the sawdust for something! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 5 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Thanks Mick! Yeah after the bar stools I have a couple of shorter projects before my next big one which will be the Morris chair and ottoman later this year. Kind of fun to start and finish a project in a few weeks rather than several months. I'm also doing a Morris chair and ottoman this fall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted September 5, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Nice work man. Yeah that tapering jig scares me because the workpiece is not secured. At the very least I'd rather use some double-stick tape and just line up some marks. I make 5-minute jigs with toggle clamps for tapering. I've also done the reverse tapered leg before. It can look cool in the right piece. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 18 minutes ago, Eric. said: Nice work man. Yeah that tapering jig scares me because the workpiece is not secured. At the very least I'd rather use some double-stick tape and just line up some marks. I make 5-minute jigs with toggle clamps for tapering. I've also done the reverse tapered leg before. It can look cool in the right piece. Eric yeah that would be a much safer approach and not take much longer if at all to knock out. Thanks for sharing! That is a beautiful piece! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 The Bessey auto adjust toggle clamps are great for jigs like that. I hold them in place with 6 square drive screws and swap them from jig to jig as needed. Rockler & a few others make the auto adjust toggle clamps now. Being able to adjust the clamping pressure and not have to worry about having to adjust for a specific part thickness is worth their cost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Paul you do some really clean work man. Nice job. Can you comment on the Paolini rule and what makes it so useful (or moreso than a standard combo/double square)? I've never really understood that one but it could just be that I'm missing something. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted September 5, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Just now, bgreenb said: Paul you do some really clean work man. Nice job. Can you comment on the Paolini rule and what makes it so useful (or moreso than a standard combo/double square)? I've never really understood that one but it could just be that I'm missing something. It helps reveal tearout on a FWW cover piece. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 1 minute ago, Eric. said: It helps reveal tearout on a FWW cover piece. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 1 hour ago, bgreenb said: Paul you do some really clean work man. Nice job. Can you comment on the Paolini rule and what makes it so useful (or moreso than a standard combo/double square)? I've never really understood that one but it could just be that I'm missing something. Thanks! I have had the Paolini rule for a few months now and I find it's my go too small rule. I wear a apron and its always front and center along with my 4" square. For me its the stop that makes it a game changer if I need to mark multiple parts inside of a couple of inches I set the stop and go. The rule is wider than my standard 6" rule, as well as my 4" square, so it makes it easier for me to mark off the end. I still use the other two but this has definitely taken over the front seat I only use my other 6" rule on occasional my 4" square for 90 degree measurements. Full disclosure my 6" rule and 4" square are both Starrett so quality tools i just really like this Paolini rule. Hope that helps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted September 6, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 23 hours ago, Cheeset202 said: ...the ebony accent will really pop, I am afraid to buy that stuff, I would have to keep the sawdust for something! I hear you the stuff is definitely pricey so I save every scrap. The cuffs for this project came from a strip of wood I cut the plugs for my last project out of. First up tonight was to plane some mill marks off the legs making sure to stop short of the ebony cuffs Next i needed to fix a quick dent in the corner of one of the grids A little heat over a damp cloth on all three surfaces should do the trick That's better Next up was to sand the parts prior to glue up ...and finally I took two swipes on each edge with a squirrel tail plane to break the edges, again being careful around the cuffs. Prior to glue up I laid out the grids to determine which were the best for the show faces and finally I glued up the front and back assemblies being sure that everything was aligned the right way. Next up I will glue the two assemblies together and then start on the top. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted September 7, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 I was able to get the base all glued up tonight Base is complete Next up is the top but it will be a bit, going away this weekend so I won't get back to the shop until next week. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted September 15, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Well after being away for the weekend and then replacing the capacitors in my J/P I was finally back in business tonight. Originally I had hoped to do this project from one board but after I was done milling the lumber for the tops I decided to start over. I was only able to get a finished thickness of 11/16" after re-sawing and re flattening the original boards. The plans called for 13/16" I seriously thought about going with the 11/16" boards but the 1/8" difference just made the top seem too thin to me. Next up some M&T's for the pin wheel top. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Moving along and looking good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 I went back and looked up Kevin's table to understand the pinwheel top. That's going to be very interesting ! What are you planning for the central medallion? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 2 hours ago, wdwerker said: I went back and looked up Kevin's table to understand the pinwheel top. That's going to be very interesting ! What are you planning for the central medallion? Going to try a Kumiko panel thinking about staining it to match the ebony cuffs on the legs...that's if it turns out LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 7 minutes ago, pkinneb said: thinking about staining it to match the ebony cuffs Maybe you should just add a check mark to your man card and make the Kumiko panel out of ebony. Table looks good there setting in the back ground. Its amazing how visual an 1/8 of an inch can be in something like a table top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 1 minute ago, Chet said: Maybe you should just add a check mark to your man card and make the Kumiko panel out of ebony. Table looks good there setting in the back ground. Its amazing how visual an 1/8 of an inch can be in something like a table top. LOL I actually thought about for a quick second then went yeah that isn't going to happen. Just the fear of messing up ebony (gold) will keep me from trying it. Ultimately whatever I use will be covered up by the craftsman lamp that will be sitting on the table...well once I make it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 MY FIL did a lot of world travel for his work & we have ended up with several ebony sculptures from Africa. Don't think I haven't considered those as a source of ebony. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Make the medallion removable. Practice building kumiko with cheaper woods, then if you decide not to build the lamps the tables could get an upgrade. A pinwheel of thin Ebony strips would also look great too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 So I was able to get some shop time this week and got the top layout complete, surprisingly this took a fair amount of time. Then I laid out the mortises Next up was to sharpen my HCM bit only to find out my HCM will not work for this because the pieces are to wide at 8 3/8" doh...well I did such a fine job you get to see the pics regardless LOL Since I now had to wait for a 3/8" spiral bit to arrive I made the blocks to mount the top and installed them Next up finish construction of the top and then on to fuming and finish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 I am looking forward to watching (through photos) the fuming process. Have you fumed before? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted September 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 34 minutes ago, Chet said: I am looking forward to watching (through photos) the fuming process. Have you fumed before? I have not so it should be interesting. I am working on some mission style stained glass lamps as well (one will site on this table) and I may start with one of those :). Either way I will document the process I use which will be the Pekovich plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pkinneb Posted September 26, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 Got some more shop time the last few days. Routed the mortises with a router. I picked up an extra guide I think I saw TOIDS do this, works great thanks for the tip! I used an extra panel on each side for stability. That should work. BTW I ran down each side to insure they were centered. Next up cut the tenons on the table saw dialed it in with test cuts a blade wide so even if I over shot I could adjust and not wreck the panel.This should work I cleaned them up with a router plane Cleaned up the ends with a pairing chisel Then I squared up the mortise ends Then back to the table saw to bevel the ends and finally two passes with the squirrel tale plane to break the outside edges Then I glued them up in pairs, gluing only a little more than half to allow for expansion. Not sure I mentioned it but the mortises are 3/8" longer then the tenons Next up glue the two half's together, route some V groves in the top, and sand the top. I hope to fume this coming weekend. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.